Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It's never too much!

Mr331307 had his running at 500RWHP for 8 months, and the only thing that car did was burnouts, drag racing, or dyno runs (Some of the most stressful things you could do)

It was never treated nicely.

Lasted long enough.

Stock injectors too.

  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

My rb25 has 300kw @19 psi for the last 18 months also. No signs of failure. But i do think that she is on borrowed time. 230-240kw should be no worries.

Btw what turbo are you running?

It's never too much!

Mr331307 had his running at 500RWHP for 8 months, and the only thing that car did was burnouts, drag racing, or dyno runs (Some of the most stressful things you could do)

It was never treated nicely.

Lasted long enough.

Stock injectors too.

Stock injectors running 500hp?

all depends, you could daily drive a 300rkw standard internal rb25det for 10years...its all about how you drive it. daily drive it conservatively, give it some herbs every now and then should last years...take it to the track and its unpredictable/

since when the f**k did u have a RB25 R32?
Hahaha Gold! Must of traded up on the LTD gas V8.

hahahah nah still got the ltd as a daily

20psi to make 230 - 240kw = you chose the wrong turbo or your tuner is shit.

I have heard that anything over 18psi is asking for a shortened lifespan on stock internals

The car came from japan with the rb25 in it (hasnt been tuned at all in aus), hks 2535, with supporting mods.. but the car atm is running VERY rich.. like ill just rev it to about 4 n petty slats out a bit, so until i take it for a decent tune, she will not be hitting boost in an effort to save petty lol

I was thinking of taking it to DR DRIFT Sam C, i know he specializes in ca/sr im sure he can do rbs just fine, but i have heard mixed opinions about his work, can anyone else recommend a good dyno tune place in Melbourne?

Also, to sort of solve the whole running rich thing, if i disconnect the battery to reset the ECU would that get things running better before i take it for a tune?

Edited by DjeMz
hahahha

well the 25 is in a s13 silvia... and std computer, std injectors.. standard everything except for GTR pump... lol

i didnt believe it untill i seen the dyno read out...

neways he is building another motor with gtr rods n pistions...

neways he knows what he wants :)

Is that the 280rwkw car your talking about?

Std injectors & ECU?

20psi to make 230 - 240kw = you chose the wrong turbo or your tuner is shit.

I have heard that anything over 18psi is asking for a shortened lifespan on stock internals

Not really, a 2530/2535 is goin to need that much boost.

They are only a tiny turbo, and IMO for a fat mid-range, quite a good turbo choice

Is that the 280rwkw car your talking about?

Std injectors & ECU?

the car he is talkin about is mine... it a freak.... i mean i understand that a dyno is only a tuning tool and counts for verry little, but when it backed it up with a 118mph pass at the strip with limited traction til the end of third (i cant drive to save myself on a drag strip) i figured it cant have been far off the money

Edited by drag-on silvia

well i had a look at the computer and it didnt have any stickers or writing on it to indicate it had been played with, and no, no fuel reg. basicly the only thing the car has got it an rb25, delta fin cooler, full 3" exhaust, gt3037 @ 14psi with 38mm external gate with screamer and an old school sub zero plenum. the injectors are stock as far as im aware, the afm is stock, (series 2 engine if it makes a difference. ) but yeh, it does go well

Not really, a 2530/2535 is goin to need that much boost.

They are only a tiny turbo, and IMO for a fat mid-range, quite a good turbo choice

A high flowed stocker (GCG or Slide) can make 250 on ~18psi, so my "wrong turbo choice" statement stands.

My Slide high flow makes 18psi by 3250rpm, makes for a nice fat mid-range.

all depends, you could daily drive a 300rkw standard internal rb25det for 10years...its all about how you drive it. daily drive it conservatively, give it some herbs every now and then should last years...take it to the track and its unpredictable/

Very true. If you redline it everyday it wont see christmas. If you take it easy and give it a bit now and then it will last a fair while longer.

I was thinking of taking it to DR DRIFT Sam C, i know he specializes in ca/sr im sure he can do rbs just fine, but i have heard mixed opinions about his work, can anyone else recommend a good dyno tune place in Melbourne?

Also, to sort of solve the whole running rich thing, if i disconnect the battery to reset the ECU would that get things running better before i take it for a tune?

if i remember correctly there are a few issues with RB25 ecu's, i think i remember sam saying somewhere about it.

It depends if it is a chipped r32 rb20 or 25 ecu, or a stock or chipped r33 ecu, i cant see it possibly being a stock r33 ecu. In my experience there is no such thing as a freak car, maybe 10 rwkw, but not 50, and ive done 100s of power runs in cars. If it makes that power, it does it for a reason. It appears to have the supporting hardware, now its just the injectors and management, you need to pull the cover off theecu and have a look.

A high flowed stocker (GCG or Slide) can make 250 on ~18psi, so my "wrong turbo choice" statement stands.

My Slide high flow makes 18psi by 3250rpm, makes for a nice fat mid-range.

You totally missed the point of what i said.

The GCG is a larger turbo. It has a larger set of wheels.

This means that it will flow more air at a given psi.

A smaller turbo has smaller wheels in it so flows less air... this is bit generalised point but im sure you see the idea.

Saying its a wrong turbo choice is wrong and very mis-informed.

Its like me saying the GCG turbo is a wrong choice for 250rwkw because a GT35 will make that power on 15psi.

See how dumb that sounds?

The GT35 has LESS response, the GCG a bit more, the HKS 2535/2530 even better again.

You cant come out with "its wrong".

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes, but it's not as easy as pulling a fuse on anything other than an R32. There's a routine you have to do, involving disconnecting a loom plug and bleeding down the preload.
    • A question for tuning awd, is it possible to disable the AWD? The stagea is an EA/T AWD, Toshi had said on a GTR, he was able to disable it and make it 2wd. Just wanted to double check if this was possible
    • Whoa, that's a name I've not see for a long time! Sorry to hear about the engine / turbo damage.  Fwiw with any engine problems it often really a case of just seeing what happens when it's apart, ymmv - I wouldn't rule out the possibility that the damage isn't even from the turbo failure, or possibly from a combination.  The airflow between cylinders isn't dead even, injectors can go off over time as well, with the turbos overboosting if you didn't have upgraded fuel system there could have possibly been a bit of leaning out - stock triggering is often a bit unreliable by this age too.  Basically its an old engine and a few things could have been going on, and you won't know how much work is needed until the engine is apart.  
    • I'm just shocked there's a euro driver on our roads who is thinking of other road users and not attempting to blind everyone. I wonder if Prank uses his indicator too...
    • Its hard to tell really. The Q50 owner's forum talks about it a lot and has quite a few people directly affected, but no idea what % of cars sold actually had the block replaced. Also, there seem to be 2 distinct issues which both get diagnosed by Infiniti as requiring a block replacement (no wonder they are going broke) 1. "Porous block" where coolant mixes with oil through thin or poorly cast parts of the block 2. Head coolant gallery plugs not sealing. If I was noticing engine coolant loss I'd start with cooling system pressure test (as always) and then I'd pull the cam covers and reseal the coolant gallery plugs on both side before worrying about a potentially porous block.  If neither of those did the trick it would be put in a second hand engine out of japan; I haven't checked pricing but I'm sure there are plenty around by now as they've been in production 10+ years
×
×
  • Create New...