Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys. I am in the process of planning out the final few things on my build and this is one of the few things that has been making me scratch my head.

I know that the upgraded intake manifold has larger runners which allow for better airflow. Thats all good and well. However it is my understanding that most people upgrade the manifold in order to fix the problem with the #6 cylinder running lean. Since the runners are larger you dont have issues with the air being caught in the manifold.

Now here is my question:

You can easily fix the lean #6 cylinder problem with tuning. With that said, why buy a whole new intake manifold when you can relatively easily fix the problem with the existing one?

Are there any other real benefits of replacing the intake manifold in high horsepower applications? If I recall correctly there is not in a relatively mild build, however I am not sure if the same applies to high, 700+WHP, applications.

Thanks a lot guys.

-Sayajin

1) cosmetic benefits

2) simplicity for working on the motor (i.e spark plugs etc..)

3) higher flow/performance. would only probably be needed in a large hp application. standard one is fine if you can put up with it.

do a quick search, this has been covered many times.

do a quick search, this has been covered many times.

Thanks, however I would have to disagree.

The topics that were covered before all spoke of upgrading in order to fix the #6 cylinder running lean issue. I am asking, besides that are there any other benefits?

I mean you can easily tune with a standalone to fix a lean cylinder, so why spend $1000+ on something that can be fixed for free? There has to be some other benefit than just that?

Also I have yet to hear someone say they have outflown the stock one, which is another reason for my question. From what I have read, even 800WHP applications dont have any problems with airflow in the stock manifold.

Just wanna get my info straight before I start my build. Thx.

btw, someone else already mentioned 1,2 dont apply to RB26, so I wont speak on those. thx.

-Sayajin

Well RIPS makes one that also comes with the 80mm throttle body.

I am trying to decide if I want to get one or not with my new RB30. I know the RIPS one would have increased airflow and make tuning my simpler, but I dont know if it is worth the money. It costs about the same as the NISMO one....

-Sayajin

Well RIPS makes one that also comes with the 80mm throttle body.

I am trying to decide if I want to get one or not with my new RB30. I know the RIPS one would have increased airflow and make tuning my simpler, but I dont know if it is worth the money. It costs about the same as the NISMO one....

-Sayajin

How do you know it makes more power? Have you seen Dyno plots or just presumed it does? Id personally go for something thats known to work rather than something custom you know little about.

Correct.

My main purpose would be for tuning.

The runners are bigger on the RIPS one IE increased airflow. I dont know if it will actually make more power, I just know it flows more air. Like I said.... I am still up in the air about it, but I am seriously leaning towards getting it just to be sure.... possibly..... maybe...... ahh im not sure!

-Sayajin

Correct.

My main purpose would be for tuning.

The runners are bigger on the RIPS one IE increased airflow. I dont know if it will actually make more power, I just know it flows more air. Like I said.... I am still up in the air about it, but I am seriously leaning towards getting it just to be sure.... possibly..... maybe...... ahh im not sure!

-Sayajin

Last time i checked RIPS uses the standard intake runners. Ill ask his Fab man tomorrow at the drags to confirm

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks Duncan! Yeah it's street use for me only. Maybe occasional track day. Any difference in noise when running with the two pumps? I would expect the lift pump to be more quiet than the main pump so hopefully not? And yes, unfortunately quite a big price difference to the simple hanger setup. Though I'm usually willing to trade money for better reliability and future-proofing. Buy once, cry once and all that. I'd be very happy to never have to deal with fuel pump / wiring issues again  
    • The old manifold was quite under the GTR strut brace.  The new manifold is quite [unknown] the GTR strut brace. The GTR strut brace was needed to clear the bonnet vents. The Old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, but not the bonnet vents. The old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, and the new bonnet without vents. But I am hoping the GTR strut brace clears the new manifold :p
    • On the bright side, at least you knew that it happened and remedied before anything happened. A friend of mine just took his Fiat 124 to a shop for an oil change and they didn't tighten the oil filter housing properly. 4.5 quarts spewed out and even after refilling + tightening the cap the engine has a tick now.
    • So, more pain. The FAST manifold is a little larger than the stocker. This is problematic because there really wasn't much clearance to begin with, so going from 'barely enough' well into 'no' is sad based on the external dimensions of the thing, even though where it bolts to the head is the same. Result is the fuel rails sit a good 25mm higher, and this is a bit of an issue with the wiring that runs behind the motor, and the fuel lines, and everything else. When pushing the manifold on, it required a huge amount of force to crush wiring looms to fit it, sensors like the MAP sensor are about 1mm from the firewall, and the FPR just has to bend ABS lines to be forced into place. After some brainstorming and some sad drinking, the loom for some reason ran from the grommet behind the ABS sensor, then to the driver side head, then back to the passenger side head. So all of this was pulled back and stripped, a few wires cut and rejoined, so that the 'branch' was now on the passenger side's head as below: Before you basically couldn't see anything behind the driver head. This is much improved! The MAP sensor is now pointing up (instead of at the firewall) Brackets have been made up for the rail. The rails are for a LS1, the manifold is designed around a LS2 as it's base. Which of course has slightly different bracketry and water pump clearance, hence the mods people need to do. Should be hopefully mounted tonight. I spent money on a new FPR that is slightly more compact than my Turbosmart FPR1200. The gauge has also been moved to the rail. There's also apparently an ORB to AN Union instead of the adapter, because the ~25mm of the current adapter is going to make the difference. Provided this all goes together and arrives today, it'll be the totally not stressful attempt to start it.
×
×
  • Create New...