Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

can someone get me the mailing address of EPA, so I can send in my letter, or if it would be better to call them, the number to call them at. Now, I won't be able to read their reply, and I doubt they're willing to send the reply to my address in Singapore, so how do i know i have an extension?

Here you go.

Environmental Performance Unit

200 Victoria St, Carlton Vic

GPO Box 4395 Melbourne Vic 3001

Tel 03 9695 2675

Fax 03 9695 2520

vehicle.enforcement@epa.vic.gov.au

make sure to send it in as a registered letter. You wont hear back for a couple of weeks. Provide proof that you are overseas at this time etc

won't the singapore stamp be sufficient?

i could photocopy my passport though.

  • 4 weeks later...

Currently selling my car and need to provide a roadworthy will any of this get past

Cracked muffler

This according to racv inspection

Oil wetness evident rear of engine

Gearbox oil leak weapage evident

Centre bearing rubber saged

Windscreen glass scratched

Noisy wheels possibly wheel bearing

How much do u think this will cost to fix?

Or would it get passed the roadworthy?

Currently selling my car and need to provide a roadworthy will any of this get past

Cracked muffler

This according to racv inspection

Oil wetness evident rear of engine

Gearbox oil leak weapage evident

Centre bearing rubber saged

Windscreen glass scratched

Noisy wheels possibly wheel bearing

How much do u think this will cost to fix?

Or would it get passed the roadworthy?

Dunno how much but that won't pass

Currently selling my car and need to provide a roadworthy will any of this get past

Cracked muffler

This according to racv inspection

Oil wetness evident rear of engine

Gearbox oil leak weapage evident

Centre bearing rubber saged

Windscreen glass scratched

Noisy wheels possibly wheel bearing

How much do u think this will cost to fix?

Or would it get passed the roadworthy?

depends who does it, i'm not referring to a dodgy either but some look harder than others some of those things wont get picked up but some will for sure. I'd say RACV buyer checks are harsher than RWC checks.

cost will depend if you fix it, or you pay someone else to do it all.

depends who does it, i'm not referring to a dodgy either but some look harder than others some of those things wont get picked up but some will for sure. I'd say RACV buyer checks are harsher than RWC checks.

cost will depend if you fix it, or you pay someone else to do it all.

Not necessarily. RWC loose their license if they miss something, which is very hard to get back. RACV will do the checks but wont have to fix it, so they just raise everything which may not be a problem.

It wont get passed the RWC.

I reckon you might be up for around $400 to $1000 including parts and labour.

A windscreen is about $250 to $500 including labour these days. Gearbox out is a pain so there's a bit of labor there.

Windscreen's are cheaper than $250, im sure of it.

I'll find out how much my HR31 was recently, and the GTR. I dont rememeber em being too much.

Either way, that list, workshop doing it $600 at least

Ok well just back from mechanics and he said his going to try keep it under 1k. His changing the windscreen also fixing exhaust which has cracked, also found a leak on lh shocker, pretty much the list was a page long :O ...also light on spoiler is out and he said there needs to bea break light at eye level, seems strange that as long as I have had it has never worked....

Looks like I'll be lucky to get out under a grand, which really sucks

Well it sucks yes, but these are the hidden costs/maintenance that people don't think exists.

ALL cars cost money to run and its not just petrol and general servicing. Plus they are 15yrs old. I'm not at all surprised that stuff is on the list. The RWC for the GTR i recently purchased was 4 figures as well without a worry.

  • 3 weeks later...

So I got screwed by the Po-Po, can't really blame em, I was in the wrong. Gotta take the car into Macleod EPA vehicle inspection station once I've taken out the safc, ebc and 3inch exhaust. Anyone know how much the Macleod test costs?

Also, this is the second time the car will have gone in for a full inspection, the first time being a year or two ago at the Hoppers Crossing inspection centre.

I told the EPA guy who checked over the car last night that I had only ever gone in for a noise check only, he told me that in addition to going to Macleod, I'd get a formal warning in the post from EPA. When they look at their records and see that this is the second time I will have gone in for a full emission test, do you reckon they would send me a fine instead of a warning?

I'm just a little nervous about it, given that I'm saving up for an overseas trip in July and I've heard the fine is about $600ish.

  • 3 weeks later...

Does anyone know when all the rule changes occured (years)? i.e. the rules changed in 1989, and there are different rules for pre-1949 cars. I've read already on this thread that 1983 is another year. What are the rest?

Also, what are the restrictions? What can you do to a 240Z that you can't do to a 300ZX (just an example)?

Edited by Turboterrorist

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wideband is worth setting up if only for tuning purposes. I would not mess with the ignition system unless there's a misfire. HKS crank trigger is popular out here for the relatively easily sourced Denso crank sensor, not a bad idea to install as well regardless of power level on a standalone. Boost leak test is worth thinking about. Oil pressure sensor tied to a fuel cut isn't a bad idea either. Getting the tune figured out is a good idea. Without putting eyes on it and getting under it there's no way for us to tell you exactly what it needs but most likely you're down to the last 10% that will make a big, big difference in how happy you are with the car.
    • Doing a refresh of my 33 and can see a few websites stating they sell the entire main carpet for our cars, but they all have generic photos which is fine, i understand they are custom made to order.  Just seeing if anyone has got it done or had any experience with this, as i would only want to do it if the fit and finish was as good as oem https://carmatsdirect.com.au/products/moulded-carpet-or-vinyl-for-nissan-skyline-r33-1993-1998-coupe https://knoxautocarpets.com.au/moulded-carpets/nissan/skyline/skyline-r-33-1993-1998/
    • Any plans for E85? If so, add flex fuel sensor.   I'd probably add in the sensors I mentioned above if the Link will support using them for engine protection. With water pressure, you need to be able to effectively set it that "If temp > X, and pressure = atmospheric, shutdown" as at running temp, you should be able to read pressure in the cooling system. If pressure suddenly disappears, it means the water went some where, and this is a quicker reaction than waiting on water temp to go up (Which, can take a little longer than you'd like, considering it now has to wait for hot air to heat it up) Oil pressure, Oil temp, both would be on my list too if you're looking to add sensors. Wideband O2. And at least one EGT sensor. If you're feeling deluxe, put in individual runner EGTs. Single EGT sensor is more so forget about a specific number, get used to "What is normal EGTs", and then keep an eye on it, if it starts going away from "normal" it's a sign something is wrong (Also, things like the tune can still start going out of spec, but EGTs may not show it, for example one injector starts running leaning, so ECU richens everything up, now 5 out of 6 cylinders are rich, and running cool, with one cylinder lean and running hotter, so it's not perfect) Then there is your other things to look at non sensor related, but you may have already done, or have underway, and that would be things like building a sump for more oil, and better oil control under high G-Forces (Cornering, brakes, acceleration). Basically, the above is worth looking/thinking about, if the ECU can do protective stuff with it, and you continue to use it how you are (Drive it to the track, thrash it, drive home, repeat once every 3 to 4 months)
    • Can also confirm these work a treat for most balljoints and bushes. If you have access to a big rattle gun, they make the job so much easier and quicker, compared to using a socket wrench or shifter on the c-clamp 👍
    • Its sort of street but got used for circuit sprints on account of I never drive it on the road because I dont have the time to spare. So it usage was sits around for months at a time then gets driven either 50 or 250 kms to the track followed by 20 laps followed by 50 or 250kms home followed by stuck in the shed until next time. So yeah neither fish nor fowl. Just dont want to break it on the track as a preference. Hence the fairly short sensor/mod list. Probably more worried about it pinging itself to destruction more so than anything oil related.
×
×
  • Create New...