Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Had an EPA test today, first one ever. Bought the car with the whole exhaust setup 2 years ago and got pinned a month ago. Paid a visit to auto exhausts in the morning to hav a muffler pea shooter made up with a flange that got swapped on after the cat to keep her quiet. My god i laughed so hard at how ruined the car is with it on. All response

goes out the window and i was scared to even push it above 3000rpm, BUT atleast it was super damn quiet, so quiet that i had to keep checking the revs at red lights thinking the damn thing stalled.

Even worse I thought I was gonna easily come way under the dB limit but it scored a friggin 88dB, even with the crazy amount of restriction. I was hoping to work on the old exhaust to make it attract less attention because im over the noise but seeing how high the pea shooter came in at it seems like it would be a lost cause.

I really do want a reduction in the exhaust sound but i dont want to lose a chunk of power, the car on high boost already puts out 320kw.

My one question is when u guys had your tests carried out did they hav the bonnet up? They did for me and it was booming at 5100rpm. Dunno how much difference (if anything at all) it would make if the bonnet was down =(

Going in for a roadie on thursday after buying one of the 32gtr's advertised on here. Had the day off so i decided i'd go down to the place i booked it at and suss them out, i asked if the guy could just quickly look over the exterior to see if there was anything obvious he wouldnt pass. Surprisingly he said it might need a new front windscreen (looks 100% fine and perfect to me but he said something about the glass being grainey or something but im pretty sure that was just dust because it hadnt been washed), now im gonna take a stab in the dark here and say they are hella expensive to get a new one?

Also the car wasnt turned on at the time and has had the middle muffler removed so i reasonably loud, went down to a local exhaust shop and asked what they could do and he said he would make up a whole rear section to make it quiter for $200 which is pretty reasonable but something i cant afford just now. When i asked him about drilling holes into a plate and putting it inbetween the flange he said its not a very good idea as he car wont want to rev above 3k rpm and if the inspector take it for a test drive or to check brakes he may pull me up on it.... any truth to this?

Ahh ok, not as pricey as i would have thought.

Havn't had the proper inspection as such, it was just a quick run around before i bring it in, so the car was stationary and wasnt running. But i would be tipping its something he will pull me up on.

Thanks for the advice dude.

Failed RWC today, main reason being that someone has jacked up the car once or twich via the chassis rail and therefore has a sligh kink in the centre of it and some of the sills are bent from being jacked up with a trolley jack..... he beleives that this now requiresa full structural report from an engineer to say the car is structurally sound... >_< what a tosser.

Will try somewhere else on monday hopefully.

Oh wow, the other day I had the car jacked up with a friends hydraulic jack, had a stand underneath it and as I went to lower it onto the stand it depressed really quickly and slammed into the stand and put a kink in the rail. Looks like I better throw the car in the bin seeing as its not structurally sound anymore!!

Failed RWC today, main reason being that someone has jacked up the car once or twich via the chassis rail and therefore has a sligh kink in the centre of it and some of the sills are bent from being jacked up with a trolley jack..... he beleives that this now requiresa full structural report from an engineer to say the car is structurally sound... >_< what a tosser.

Will try somewhere else on monday hopefully.

Just go somewhere else, that RWC guy is clearly an idiot.

Mate got followed by an undercover cop from Blackburn road monash exit to Glen Waverley in his basically stock R32 GTR and got defected for not enough clicks in his handbrake lol

Such is life

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok gotcha, so one post to fpr  another to bov  and I have the mishimoto boost controller and a link g4+ so I’d just have the tuner set it up properly. For the last two from plenum post throttle to  ecu/ boost controller, I know that I have a hose coming from the ecu that I was confused about so I assume that’s what connect to the boost controller from the ecu? And then the last is just from plenum to boost controller then to wastegate?
    • From there, it was just a quick electrical check, prime the oil and start her up Which, is not what happened. 1. Bloody seppo Aeropro battery holder. Not only was it too tall for the battery (which I'll forgive them for, I have another battery the same nominal size that is taller than Neil's one, but the bracket is a fixed height so the battery was spaced up) But the thing that really shits me is the hardware to hold it on requires a 7/32 Hex key. WTF. No-one will ever be able to remove or install the damn thing without a hex key they don't own 2. Kill switch no longer worked once the console was installed. Neil mentioned above he had to adjust the length but it no longer cleared the console once installed. Sorted. 3. Suspiciously, the brake light holders were hanging in the boot with no globes. Sure enough the stopper on the brake pedal was missing so they are always on unless the kill switch is activated. Will pick one up tomorrow (turns out 32 and 33 don't use the same stopper) 4. All that sorted, I turned on the kill switch, turned the key to ACC. Nothing. Turned it to IGN. Nothing. Checked some fuses and found the main IGN in the boot was missing which improved things once it was replaced. Now ECU and dash lights turn on with IGN but still no fuel pump. 5. Turned it to Start....ECU on, no fuel pump, no starter. Plus the voltage dropped straight to 9v.  I suspect the starter is f**ked but am going to have to work through it all and see what is happening, really looks like more than one issue. Does anyone have the R33 fuse box key with the circuit it sources from (eg BAT, ACC, IGN, SRT etc) and supplies? I can find a translated list showing Amps and circuit without supply circuit, and I can find supply circuit without Amps and target circuit.
    • 3rd time lucky, the AAC is now all plumbed up after getting some final fittings All set up under the plenum of maximum access
    • OK, so the weight has been bugging because it was really low. I did it again today and got a more believable answer at 1246 without driver And with a 93kg driver I'm pretty sure the car was still slightly on the quickjack last time meaning the full weight was not on the scales  
×
×
  • Create New...