Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For those who might recognise me, I've decided not to risk driving a GTS-T on my P's for 3 years. But I can't not have this car. So I thought about un-turboing it.

It'll have to be a good enough job to be registerable as a naturally-aspirated engine, so I need all the ideas and help I can get. I'm assuming simply disconnecting the turbo from the intake manifold won't be enough for the insurance companies because the turbo will still be there.

Anyone? Many many thanks in advance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156404-un-turbocharging-a-gts-t-advice/
Share on other sites

It wont be registed as an N/A, the build plate says turbo, the car is legally turbo.

Therefore, thats what the car is.

You must but a N/A car, not de-turbo a gts-t.

That does not circumvent the law

well, it's not that simple.

Your exhaust manifold flows through the turbo. If you take the turbo off, you'll need to get an na manifold.

you'll need to do all the intake piping like the na car.

keep in mind the turbo has oil and water lines. they'll probably need to be removed, and the outlets bunged.

It's not an easy job.

I know that you don't want to think in retrospect, but perhaps you should have thought about it before you bought it? The reason why I brought this up, is what is your added fear now?

If you were to continue driving it (i'm not condoning it), but is there any additional problem to what you initially anticipated?

Perhaps sell it and buy an na? or keep it in the garage for 3 years?

to keep you excited and liking your car during this time, maybe while it's in the garage, you could do a build up. Or just get an older friend to drive you around in it every weekend? I'm sure he/she won't mind.

You wouldn't want to do that anyway. An N/A has a compression ratio of 10.1 or there abouts and a turbo around 8.5 i think. Without the turbo your 'un-turboed' car would be an absolute slug. Don't do it.

I say convert it to NA and drive it around. if you get pulled over the police can see its not turbo.

just find all the bits you need and install it. bung up the holes for the turbo lines and take out the intercooler piping etc etc

It can be done and if you love the car lots then it could be OK in the long run as you can start modding the rest of the car untill your ready.

You may be down on power a little when it comes to other NA skylines but you can always invest in a set of extractors for it and a air filter etc etc.

I say convert it to NA and drive it around. if you get pulled over the police can see its not turbo.

just find all the bits you need and install it. bung up the holes for the turbo lines and take out the intercooler piping etc etc

It can be done and if you love the car lots then it could be OK in the long run as you can start modding the rest of the car untill your ready.

You may be down on power a little when it comes to other NA skylines but you can always invest in a set of extractors for it and a air filter etc etc.

it will still be illegal to drive without a turbo on it as the car was built as a turbo even with the turbo taken off it will be taken on the power to weight ratio of the turbo charged engine.

my advice is park it up and get ya dad to drive it only on weekends buy a 500 buck sh**box to hack around in till you can drive the turbo

Dont know bout the legality's but a turbo motor converted to n/a will be a slug, and would probably be cheaper to remove the turbo motor intercooler etc. and replace the whole lot with a n/a motor rb30 maybe even, If you can do the work yourself even more so. And you would have an awesome project once you do put the turbo motor back in building up the rb30 to be your next motor! :mad:

Just a thought.

im with this guy.

yeah right! THe amount of money that you lose when buying and selling and buying another car, selling that, then buying a skyline again is huge. Think of all the stamp duty, money lost, rego, insurance etc.

you'll hvae to pay stamp duty 3 times!!!

Whatever money you make from 'investing' will be less than the amount lost.

surely if you got pulled over by a copper and told him its non turbo and he checks he wont give two hoots.

if you take it to court you would win anyway.. not that it would ever get that far.

i had an R31 with a RB25det in it before i got my 33, i got defected and had to go over the pits, i found out, if i converted it to an NA rb25 then it would go through without a brakes upgrade, engineers cert etc. (couldnt afford it at the time), anyways, i took the manifold off, put NA one one, plugged up all the fittings etc, got NA inlet piping etc....used turbo AFM, bla bla bla.....RAN LIKE A DREAM. smooth as, and it didn't drive too bad! believe it or not. The Turbo has a 9:1 comp ratio which is the same as an NA rb30 anyways...

cutting a long story short, ended up doin a swap of some 'silver plates of some sort' and had to undo the conversion for no apparent reason. hehe...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
×
×
  • Create New...