Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I'm just wondering who amongst all of you has had their car tuned by Advan Performace in Silverwater.

Reason I'm asking is after they tuned my car I have been experiencing high levels of engine knock, high as in the hundreds according to the Power FC hand controller, and my ignition timing is at 42 degrees which I have been told is extremely high. I have had the engine compression tested, result was 145 across all cylinders, car doesn't blow any smoke or make any strange noises. The drive home Advan the knock level did not exceed 22, then the following day I think it went up to 120 something, highest reading from the hand controller was 200 and something, I'm hoping it's a faulty knock sensor or something. Hasn't seemed to damage the engine at all.

So I'm just trying to find out if anyone else has had a problem with their tuning. I'm thinking of taking it to CRD to be retuned.

Any suggestions or input is appreciated

Thanks

l_34c6fc4fe3b023824828300c85802472.jpg

With a power curve like that.

I would be taking it back and asking for a retune, or alternatively something might be wrong with the car, part not 100% or something.

The curve is all over the place. Not what a good tune should look like

I knew I should've taken it to SAS in the first place. One of the guys from SAS told me that Advan don't even have a proper tuner working for them, said they specialise in "bling" only.

Any idea what part might not be 100% to 'cause that sloppy power curve?

that is f**king horrible!

I street tuned my own car and the curve is 100% better then that crap - i hired a dyno the week after to get a couple of power readings and this was one of the runs.. totally different.

How much did the tune cost you ? I cant believe they let a car out like that.

dyno2.jpg

the tune looks fine

the top higher power run is the "after" dyno plot

the lower one is the "before" dyno plot

if its knocking a bit more than 60 then you just need to spend a few minutes getting accustomed with knocking and how to correct it. the pfc faq (in my sig) will tell you in great detail how to work with knocking and debug it correctly.

read that and it will help you sort out the knocking

er, i wouldnt be doing any fixing yourself at all (regardless of how easy it is after reading the faq)

id be taking it back and telling them its knocking and make them fix it

Look at the power surge between 130 - 145 - that looks like something that would happen with rich and retard not with a full power Fc tune.

I would like to see the ignition map and fuel maps of this tune.. there must be a reason why its doing that.. if its not the tuners fault then there must be something wrong with something there.

the tune looks fine

the top higher power run is the "after" dyno plot

the lower one is the "before" dyno plot

if its knocking a bit more than 60 then you just need to spend a few minutes getting accustomed with knocking and how to correct it. the pfc faq (in my sig) will tell you in great detail how to work with knocking and debug it correctly.

read that and it will help you sort out the knocking

before getting carried away with taking it somewhere else, or accc etc. just go back to advan and tell them your concerns... at least give them a chance to help you out. I'm sure if they did make a mistake, or possibly something changed on your car since the tune they will be happy to take a look and at least diagnose the problem (if there is one) for you.

^^^ I agree with that... if they screwed up go back to em and see what they have to say about... but 43 degrees of timing is faily high isn't it? standard is like 15 or something like that.. according to the sticker on the bonnet...

Some workshops are really good to there customers - i know if it was Turbotechnics in newcastle they would put the car back on the dyno and double check it and fix it if they can for free.

I hear lots of good storys about advan so i wouldnt be suprised if they do that for you too.

I knew I should've taken it to SAS in the first place. One of the guys from SAS told me that Advan don't even have a proper tuner working for them, said they specialise in "bling" only.

Any idea what part might not be 100% to 'cause that sloppy power curve?

Hey mate,

I had my car tuned by SAS a month or so ago and they did a great job. Good blokes, especially Rodney real helpful, i would recomend them to anyone they are straight talkers...

i wouldnt be to concerned what the guys from one workshop said about another .

your chart looks ok , not great but ok and you said it drove home fine

i think something else is wrong , lots of timing advance will cause detonation and something is f**kign that uo

Yes, even if you approach the ACCC for help, they will always tell you to go back and seek a resolution with the service providors.

Lets not jump the gun with suggestions of involving the ACCC, thats ridiculous

its really not a big deal, 42deg isnt much of a concern

im up near 50deg on my tune and it rawks

if its just knocking in one or two spots

use the pfc faq to help work out where in the maps it is and

then goto advan and ask them to kindly sort it out

every tune knocks differenelty on the street with the owner dirving it compared to being on a dyno in a simulation. happens and just needs a quick touch up once its out of the simulator and in the real world

I have been experiencing high levels of engine knock, high as in the hundreds according to the Power FC hand controller, and my ignition timing is at 42 degrees which I have been told is extremely high. I have had the engine compression tested, result was 145 across all cylinders, car doesn't blow any smoke or make any strange noises. The drive home Advan the knock level did not exceed 22, then the following day I think it went up to 120 something, highest reading from the hand controller was 200 and something, I'm hoping it's a faulty knock sensor or something. Hasn't seemed to damage the engine at all.

As Paul said, knock over 60 is something to be concerned about. 120-200 would sound like someone pouring a bucket of gravel under your bonnet.

If you heard abnormal sounds, it's probably knock and should be dealt with. If you didn't hear it, it's probably a bad sensor.

If it IS knock, it could be a caused by a bunch of things, some of which are not the tuner's fault, but most of which probably are. Try some fresh gas before you get too worried.

I wouldn't hesitate to fix it myself, but I like that sort of thing. If you paid someone to do a job, give 'em a crack at fixing it.

Good luck!

Dan

Cost me $3000 for the Power FC, Z32 air-flow meter and the tune which means I paid over $1000 for a dodgy tune. I'll get someone to check out the sensor.

I don't think I'll go back there, they seemed kind of hostile towards me.

I have a friend who highly recommends Powertune in Fairfield, and from what I have read on these forums, they're not so good, but my friend assures me they can do just as good a job as Unique Autosports.

Anyone on here had experiences with them?

Thanks for all the help.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...