Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi. I noticed when I first got the car that it did not go into OD until it warmed up a bit and thought this was normal.In the last week or so I have noticed it is sometimes not going into OD. I would like to get some feed back to try and negate any costly trany work.Any one have the same thing?

cheers.

The S2 Triptronic has no OD button or power switch ( that I am aware off). It has only done this a couple of times. I just hope its a glitch and not an indication of anything bad to come.

OOPS! I'm only a simple S1, auto driver. See my 4WD thread.

it wont go into od (4th) until its warmed up. But should do so afterwards with no issue.

what he said. Its a feature, not a problem.

Some days mine takes longer to hit 4th gear than others, but I have a book from the car dealer I bought it from that says the transmission will not change into 4th gear (OD) until it is either warmed up or your speed requires it (i assume that means if you go over ~80km/h when its cold it should still change into 4th?).

If you find it has trouble going into 4th gear when it is definitely warm (ie. you've been driving for over 10 mins or so) then I'd be getting it checked out by an automatic transmission specialist. When was the last time you had your Automatic Trans serviced?

Yeah, it's another case of, the factory knows best. It wont go into 4th until the oil reaches a certain temp. Usually about 3k's down the road.

I do believe from experience that it is the tranny oil temp that we are talking about here, as the engine temp doesnt seem to have any bearing.

Thanks for all the info...I should have said this before.... but what I mean is the little change AFTER 4th gear! I assumed this was OD???...maybe its somthing else (lock up???)...or have I got one with five gears?haha..It definatly does have another shift after 4th on mine but only in normal auto..in sports or triptronic mode it stays in 4th...if you put it back to normal auto it does another shift. I guess another S2 triotronic owner could say if their car dose this.

putting it in sports/tipronic mode will raise the revs by around 500RPM and when you put it back into normal mode it'll drop those revs, if thats what you are thinking of as another shift, it's not.

Here is some info I got from an official Stagea site.

Transmission

Dualmatic M-ATx

(Electronically controlled 4-speed Automatic Transmission)

Gear ratio

1st 2.785

2nd 1.545

3rd 1.000

4th 0.694

Reverse 2.272

Final 4.083

so isnt final OD and what Im on about ?

Nup - final ratio is the diff, 'scott nuthin to do with the tranny, you are looking at ALL gear ratio's

Any ratio below 1.000 is overdrive, hence the name OVER drive as in diff being driven at OVER the engine speed

Edited by newbie101
...maybe its somthing else (lock up???)...or have I got one with five gears?haha..It definatly does have another shift after 4th on mine but only in normal auto..in sports or triptronic mode it stays in 4th...if you put it back to normal auto it does another shift. I guess another S2 triotronic owner could say if their car dose this.

Yep that's the lock up converter kicking in, the revs drop as it "locks up" the torque converter. This means there is no slip between the engine and the gearbox, as if you had a manual with a clutch engaged. And it is electronically controlled and must be excluded when the box is put into sports shift mode.

Cheers

Luke

Mine does exactly the same thing. I too thought that it was an overdive on 4th, sure feels like it. But as munch says it is probably the lock up convertor. Mine is only really noticable when I shift the stick into the tiptronic position, and 4 comes up on the dash instead of D. The revs definately drop. I haven't paid much attention to when it does it from cold. I will from now on. I'll let you know.

This is normal operation over 80km/h. I'm pretty sure mine's done it below 80km/h but as a general rule when over 80km/h at fairly constant throttle the torque converter will lock up. The revs may drop a little also.

If you put your foot down a bit (its usually fairly sensitive) it will unlock to allow you to accelerate again...much like dropping back a gear when you put your foot down a bit.

It will lock and unlock as needed, and it often only takes slight movements of your right foot to do this.

Hope that helps :wave:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yuck. But it's kinda the same principle, moving timing around to make car run bad but sound good.... I went for a more spirited tuning drive to iron out a few things. Car no longer stalls, and it loved to dip RPM low when you clutch in. After tuning this (and the 4-5 tables that HPTuners/LS1 OEM ECU wants for idle air correction) it's now behaving somewhat normal. All expected because there's a new TB, new Intake manifold and that new TB which is 102mm vs 78... has an entirely different IAC passage which is smaller because ????? Unfortunately at this point I went to make further fine tuning changes to avoid it flaring up, you know... _tuning_ the HPTuners dongle died. Well to be more accurate - The USB cable died in a fashion that anyone who has ever charged a phone will recognize. After the app demanding I resync it 50 or so times (which all 'succeeded' but all failed) the device does not want to sync and I've logged a ticket with support to see if it's fixable. US Support said it was a 'storage issue' but after removing the SD card inside it and formatting it/fixing it the issue does persist. Unfortunately usually the fix is "Turn in your old dongle and pay $700 for the upgraded one" it's cheaper because I get some free licence credits I unfortunately don't need. However I'm 10 minutes down the road from HP Tuners AUS/VCM so at least I won't need to post it, and logged a new ticket for support over here. Definitely drives different. My SOTP dyno believes it's probably making 310-320kw instead of the 280 before.  It scrambles for traction a little now whereas it previously different. It drives like a bigger cam car up top even though the cam is smaller, likely due to the cam not being advanced 6 degrees. The timing is deliberately low and the fuel is very rich so who knows if this will improve on the dyno. It may, imperceptably. Also funny is removing the pineapples definitely makes the car squat more and axle tramp less. So this behavior of having more top end, squatting more, and scrabbling for traction more makes me think = more power. But I could have just been sitting on the threshold of that kind of behavior before. Time will tell if my butt dyno is calibrated right. I need the exhaust leaks fixed before dyno tune for obvious AFR related reasons - I repositioned the pipes but I'm not confident it's fully sealed even if it is better. At least the car does drive around while I cannot tweak/tune it for now. And I have aircon again. medium success!
    • Don't use that manifold. Please don't use that manifold. Sunk cost fallacy is not worth the later pain. None of these will be relevant to the change that will come from the different turbo and manifold. As in, the effect of the exhaust will be nil, regardless of what else is changed. And all the cam and fuel system stuff is not changing either way, so has no effect. The turbo and manifold (and to a small extent the wastegate)....big change.
    • Just wanted to say thank you for your input   my man (lead mechanic by trade) and I have done a heap of work as you can imagine just to make the hot side work with the dump pipe, stupid massive intake on turbo, trying to get the waste gate on was not fun.  I’m kinda getting to the point where I don’t know if I try and make this work and not throw all this cash and time away or do I scrap the lot and start again? the Apexi I’ve got was tuned for a few slight differences:   Tomei pon cams (mine are stock neo) Turbo smart 38mm external waste gate (mines 45mm replumbed) with stainless screamer pipe  3inch turbo back exhaust with high flow cat Sard 800cc top feed injectors Sard adjustable fuel pressure reg    
    • Out here E90s are the cheapest way into a sporty-ish car because everyone knows just how expensive the repairs can get. 8-10k USD for an automatic 335i. 
×
×
  • Create New...