Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

We've got an old hydraulic floor jack at home that has provided many years of trusty service at home, but the thing now no longer holds pressure very well.

It's a pain to pump the thing up without any weight on it, and subsequently takes ages to get the thing to reach the subframe of a car. Once there's some weight on it, though, getting a car off the ground becomes a lot easier. The seals have been replaced previously, but it still leaks a bit too, so maybe the bores are not as smooth as they should be...

Does anyone know (roughly) how much it would cost to sort out, and if it is worth repairing? It is (or was...) a pretty decent jack, and cost my old man a fair bit of coin when he bought it. It's a 2,000kg one, and not your average cheapy, which is why I'd like to know if it's worth repairing/reconditioning, and keeping.

It's an old "Formula" jack, if I remember correctly... I will double-check tomorrow, but most likely all the labelling has been worn off over the years.

Sorry that I can't help you with a particular place, but I knwo that there are places that do hydrolic jack repair.

When I was googling before when I was looking to buy a trolley jack, there were heaps of places.

I can't tell you which place is good or not, but if you go to google, and type hyraulic jack repair, there are many places. I tried to copy the googly results, but the link doesn't work.

I tried a Google search too, but would prefer a recommendation if someone can offer me one.

I just want to know if it's worth keeping and repairing, or just buying a new one...

depends on how well the jack works. Good jacks are hard to come by.

I have bought two jacks recently and they're shithouse. they're not those little jacks, they're big 2500 kg trolley jacks.

For your jack, if it's just taking a while and lowering after time etc, it's probably just the seals.

That plus an oil change (yes, you're supposed to change the oil in them) may fix it.

Give some of the blokes a call. you might honestly be suprised at the price.

I'm now stuck in a pickle. For the amount i've spent on the two jacks, I could've bought a snap on jack.

Edited by MANWHORE

Ok, thanks for that.

I'll see how I go. Used it today, and it made that "cracking" noise (like when you're trying to remove a really tight nut/bolt) every couple of minutes as it slowly started dropping bit by bit under the weight of the car. We used stands, of course, but weren't under the car for too long anyway.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So we have most the interior back in, and for the first time with one OEM speaker hooked up. The 31 is running, driving and now tunes!!! Hahaha yet another step for the sub that sat 10m under for two weeks!!! unbelievable really 👌 lots of love work and not giving up on her. Seen so many youngsters part way less, and in way better condition. I’m stubborn, thinking another problem is just a hurdle to overcome, One at a time. IMG_9277.mov
    • That is correct. I'm using a modified ABS ring and a ZF speed sensor on my rear diff for speed input. I'm running a Haltech ecu. 
    • Been busy with the newborn. We originally thought we were going to go for a third, but we're good with two lol. He's starting to actually sleep now so I've had some energy to work on the car. It's been parked away in the garage since late November due to winter.  I went ahead and redid all my head oil drains. I originally had my front and rear head drain going into the same pipe but have since split them up. I also added an Ethanol content sensor to get ready to run E85 this summer. Tossed it on my return line. Sensor sits nicely under my intake manifold.    I also have a lot of parts that came in for my rear end. I'll be swapping over to a 3.3 final drive and doing the GK teck anti squat mod. While the rear subframe is off, I'll also change every bushing. We're planning on buying another house soon with the condition that I get at a minimum a 2 door garage, so I'll wait to have more room for this. Now onto the strange things that recently happened... After changing the lower rad hose (It had been sitting in my cabinet for well over a year and was the last hose I had to replace), I let the car idle in the garage to bleed my coolant. After running for a few minutes, it started missing. Got much worst within a minute or two and then stalled and would not restart. My crank sensor decided to crap itself. No damage, no explanation, just died. I went ahead and replaced it with another ZF sensor but the heavier duty stainless model with a shield. Tossed that in and started right up. Has anyone else seen this? I hate when things fail without cause. Luckily this was a blessing in disguise... This lead me to recheck my timing. It seems I may have had a beer or two the last time I had set my TDC angle as I was off exactly 5 degrees... I miscounted a line haha. I was running 5 degrees less then commanded. It's a little embarrassing but helps explain why my dyno operator seemed to think I should be making more then 478rwkws.        
    • Sharing results from recent Liberty Walk R35 GTR, since they are still considered as somesort of a V36 Skyline. We do them turbos too. This are high flowed SS-1 models with ball bearing conversion done.  Car have managed to pull 485awkws @ 20Psi so far pushing limitations of factory built engine. The build list for R35 GTR enthusiasts as follow : HyperGear high flowed stock turbos in SS1 (G25-660 specs) Custom titanium intake pipes. Vspec performance titanium front pipes. Vspec performance 4" titanium exhaust. Upgrade fuel pumps. 1200cc injectors. Ignition coilpacks Hks intake plenum. Hks intercooler piping. Greddy intercooler. Greddy bovs. Top-secret coolant reservoir. Emtron ecu. Straight E85. Built gear box.  
    • Nah no bearings, just slip fit.  Would be a reasonably challenging but not impossible job to modify it to run bearings but I'm hoping that's not necessary as I may have well built one myself if I end up spending hours modifying it!
×
×
  • Create New...