Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Does anyone got any ideas how to locate an intermittent air leak?

I have a pod, FMIC and stock inlet manifold on a R33 GTST.

Occasionally when I put the boot in there'll be a different sound as if I'm sucking air in somewhere.

The issue started after a full day at the track.

It doesn't occur all the time, and after it does it once it disappears again, as if the leak has temporarily sealed itself (ie pipe gets hotter and expands).

I've tightened all the clamps I can get to, and can't identify any split hoses etc. All hoses are the blue silicon ones. There are still numerous clamps I can't reach.

I hate to think what a tuning shop would charge me to locate such a fault.

Does anyone have any ideas on locating these types of leaks?

cheers,

Mike

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156501-finding-air-leaks-in-the-intake/
Share on other sites

Check your PCV valve, it is the little 2 way valve that is pushed into the side of your intake cam cover, it then connects to the intake manifold via a rubber pipe, it is only small, put your ear up to it while the car is idling and if you hear it whisstle then it most likely has a stuffed seal (mine sometimes makes a hissing noise when the car is idling which i have traced to being the PCV valve seal leaking i think) , another way to check for vacuum leaks is to get a long peice of vaccum hose, put it up to your ear then put it werever the whistling noise is coming from, you can hear it very clearly with the vaccum hose. Also while the car is idling you can wriggle the PCV valve around a little bit and see if the hissing goes away or gets worse

Edited by nizmo_freek

block the intake pipe to the turbo off with a rubber unit- this creates a sealed unit.

in the centre of that end seal, you put a nozzle to insert compressed air, using soapy water spray areas prone to leak, the air escaping causes bubbles

other way is to spray a combustable solution - rp7/wd40/carbie cleaner around, if the revs rise at that time, then there is a leak there.

hey guys

i did this just the other day

here's some pic's mate to help you out, i found a tyre tube and just cut out the nozzle and pressed it into the bottom of the bottle..

found one of my blow-by hoses had a split in it, i still have a whisling noice and bad idle so im outta ideas now

VVV for some reason posted twice :)

post-30861-1171527851.jpg

post-30861-1171528048.jpg

post-30861-1171528193.jpg

Edited by 2gceffy

hey guys

i did this just the other day

here's some pic's mate to help you out, i found a tyre tube and just cut out the nozzle and pressed it into the bottom of the bottle..

found one of my blow-by hoses had a split in it, i still have a whisling noise and bad idle so im outta ideas now.. my noise is coming from around the blow-by hose that connects to the inlet manifold

post-30861-1171528048.jpg

post-30861-1171527851.jpg

post-30861-1171528193.jpg

in the bottom pic you can see the split i found and the lil metal cylinder with the bolt in the top ( duno what its called) i think thats whats making my whisle noise

hope that helps ya mate

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You've just discovered a really good reason to tell yourself, yes, I do need to buy an aftermarket ECU. Put the MAF in the bin. Slap in the new ECU and have a think about what turbo sounds you prefer.  Do you want a 90's style BOV wooosh? Do you want a hektik tsututututu?  Mate, can't go wrong. Just gotta get that ECU and the world is your oyster. 
    • Hi. Iam just curisou about this topic. I saw this video. It is about Greddy Type FV2. I know that BoVs are about that sound but how and when to use it? I read some topic here and from what i have understand on stock RB with MAF there will be some "problems" if you use this BoV? It vents the air in to the atmosphere and the MAF on stock car needs this air back in to the intake and not out? Or is it wrong? If so...i saw you can put some adaptor to circule air back...but does that not "loose" that sound? I saw another BoV from Turbosmart and it has two "exhaust" like ports? One is for the stock tubing for letting air back and one is for "sound" and let the air in the atmosphere? Can someone please explain? This is the Greddy one:  And this is the Turbosmart.     THANK YOU!! EDIT: So i read about this topic some more and i if i understand that correctly: That Greddy can function either like BoV or 100% Bypass valve? And that Turbosmart is what they called hybrid so you can adjust what and how many air can be vented out or back in? Is this right? THX!
    • That dirty voltage drop is the culprit I suspect 
    • i cant get them all in 1 screenshot unfortunately as i just dont know how to move things around tbh, but they are all from the same log and the line crosses at the same point for all of them
    • It's about time I start work on my sun tan. So I knocked up a few parts that will all combine together to become my new power steering reservoir. Now just to produce an abundance of UV and IR rays while melting a heap of bits of alu to become one... Well, that's after I put one more hole in it for the return line to plumb to. It likely won't be this weekend, as Sunday I'm meant to be in doing some last minute stuff to the AMG race car, and the weekend after will be filled with non my Skyline stuff, followed by Bathurst 6 hour. So I don't expect to get to melt metal for at least 3 weeks.   I also managed to stuff up and start cutting the hole for the res to pump pipe on the wrong side of the line... It means instead of the lines being nice and tight against the inner guard, they'll be out off the guard.    The size of it means I should end up with about 1.8L of power steering fluid, and still have space for another half a litre before it reaches the overflow/breather. This is wayyyyyyy more capacity than factory, which should help keep Powersteer oil temps lower, and the design hopefully allows it to prevent any aerated oil being able to makes its way down to the bottom as it'll have a couple of baffles and some hopeful trickery to force air bubbles away from the bottom.
×
×
  • Create New...