Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi folks, have just aquired myself an r33 gtr which has been moderately modified and tuned, running 240awkw or 357kw at engine. i want to achieve 300-350awkw on stock internals.

the main mods so far-its running 19psi on stock turbos with steel wheels, big apexi fmic (125mm thick i think), power fc, stock fuel system, stock afm, big cold air intake with k/n filter, cam timing has been adjusted and a bunch of other supporting stuff like blasted intake manifold, oil cooler and catch cans etc etc...

it goes nicely but of course want more... from the tuners report/comments he says he has taken the engine to a point where the air flow meters and injectors are a problem if you wish to go for bigger turbos.

so, i want to get a pair of gt2860r or similar, turbos :D and want to make sure i have the other supporting stuff covered. the main question i have is about the airflow meters and what to do here? whats the problem with these and how best to overcome?

how many hp will the stock r33 gtr fuel pump handle and what size injectors should i go for keeping in mind my power goals?

do i need anything else apart from a tune once the above is completed?

cheers...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156789-help-me-get-more-from-my-rb26/
Share on other sites

it's a simple (but expensive) step up from here as you are at (or near) the limit of a number of things. I would get the following:

a set of mild cams around 260degree 9.15mm lift

700cc injectors

nismo fuel pump

nismo or Z32 (VG30) air flow meters

some turbos. either R34 N1s, or HKS GT-SS or HKS GT2530 would be my pic, but the generic garret equivelant seems to be good too.

also upgrade the front part of your exhaust if not done already

that should see you somewhere between 300 and 340 wheel kw.

it's a simple (but expensive) step up from here as you are at (or near) the limit of a number of things. I would get the following:

a set of mild cams around 260degree 9.15mm lift

700cc injectors

nismo fuel pump

nismo or Z32 (VG30) air flow meters

some turbos. either R34 N1s, or HKS GT-SS or HKS GT2530 would be my pic, but the generic garret equivelant seems to be good too.

also upgrade the front part of your exhaust if not done already

that should see you somewhere between 300 and 340 wheel kw.

ah yes, the exhaust has been done already, turbo back 3.5inch...

so the z32 are best replacement for the stock afm`s? there is 2 of them remember? i have been doing some more reading and it seems that the voltage is the problem??? or is it the diameter???

was gonna hold off on the cams, thought id get there without em? will i really need em to go over 300awkw?

one other thing, i think the tune is very rich as i get alot of soot on the back of the car from the exhaust? is this normal? i know its safer, but can you still have a safe tune without the soot?

the problem with the afms is the calibration. not so much the physicaly size (unless you are running very big turbos, with a bit inlet).

yes I'm aware there is 2 afms. you need to reaplace your 2, with 2 new ones. personally I would chose the nismos as they are a Z32 sensor in an RB25 body which means they fit straight into your existing set-up. Z32s have a larger body so require some effort to fit them.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @GTSBoy yeah i know it was not the "great" idea but it is and option...but i think i will stay on no BoV rather then trying to make it work with "half" this and that. But that GReddy FV2 is cool...i like that you can make it like stock if you want (and have/make the custom pipes) For other thanks! it was alot of information. But for the sound...a dont rly "like" both of them...specialy if they are loud...but if i "must" choose i would rather have little whooosh rather than sutututu with no BoV....BUT that is what is i gonna get. So for the all info i gather. In my case:  No BoV is not that bad cuz it is stock...and iam used to put N/clutch right after rpms are around 1000 so it should be ok...just need to avoid "big" drops. But i do not have the engine in the car so i do not really know how "bad" or good it is. But as i had that little test drive it looked ok. The atmo BoV should be worse car would dump to much fuel specialy between the shifts...so without proper tune/ECU i dont want that. BUT with that...car should drive ok with no problems right? (i do like there is less piping wih this solution) 馃檪 
    • Usually an RB20 won't stay in closed loop idle anyway. The O2 sensor gets too cold, stops swinging.
    • They aren't, but it depends on what interests you about an R32-R34. If it's the front engine I6 turbo that tunes well with a manual transmission an E92 335i 6MT is so incredibly cheap. You can get a super clean one for 20-25k USD tops. Put an LSD in it, tune it, have fun with it. If it's the general idea of AWD + turbo and a manual transmission the 996 Turbo is absolutely much more expensive, it's less practical but it's also basically a complete track-ready car from the factory. At least the Mezger doesn't have heaps of oil control issues. And in the US the 996 Turbo and R33 GTR are roughly the same price these days. 996 maybe a bit more now that the hype has abated for old Skylines here.
    • these are not the same
    • Best kept secret for seized bolts is crayons... Heat the sucker up with a torch, and push/melt crayon into it. Works a wonder. See if I can go 2 from 2 for you on how to get your bolts out...
  • Create New...