Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi to all!

well i am an apprentice sheet metal worker im 23 and doing an adult apprenticeship i have been mucking about with metal since i was about 14...here are some of my projects i am making and planning to make

post-28208-1171702477.jpg

post-28208-1171703454.jpg

ok first up i made this air filter adapter out of 1.6mm thickness stainless steel sheet and 75 mm 3" tube...

preperation is the key to tig welding something of this nature can bu "fused " together this is when you apply heat to a concentrated area and the join simply melts together you move on at a steady rate keeping an eye on the moulten pool this is fusing....to have a successful fuse you must have the two edges of material clean and as close as possible if you you try to fuse 2 peices with a small gap it will simply burn away leaving a hole or even bigger gap to fill! and it suxs been down that road.. this is an un pollished part at the moment stainless can be pollished to a number 4 finish using scotch brite scouring pad...this is food grade finish! not that i will be eating off this..high pollishing is possible with the right buff wheels..i found this finish is enuf.

post-28208-1171703605.jpg

post-28208-1171703782.jpg

ok second here is the first oil catch can i made ...it was originally made for my buggy (turbo suburu single seat buggy full custom) but i am using it to mock up the hose arrangement as my car is off the road turbo is at Slides....

ok once again stainless steel used 4 inch tube, 2 end caps, small pipe to fit air filter,

i will add step by step pictures when available monday or tuesday...

but basically this was all fused together bar the inlet pipes where the metal was not touching some filler rod was used (filler rod is stainless steel in a rod form usually 1.5 to 2mm thick sizes vary) you start by "tacking' the end cap on place a tack every 1 cm or so to hold in place securely then lightly dolly /tap with a small hammer to close the gap around the join no gap it what you want.. then proceed to fuse it on you may want to do about a 4 cm long strip then using a wet rag cool the metal by placing the rag directly on it this will prevent the metal from warping due to excessive heat. take your time it will come out better if you do it right! ok thats it for now till pictures arrive

post-28208-1171703884.jpg

post-28208-1171703973.jpg

post-28208-1171704084.jpg

number 3 here is a heat shield i made in around thirty minutes very simple only tool used was grinder tig a press and gilotene

ok i now the press and the gilotene are out of the question for most..but it all can be done with a hammer tig welder gringer and thats about it. same applies for fusing this as stated above preperation is the key!!

if you have the tig to hot or incorrectly sharpened it whill burn unevenly and you want nice even penetration and not to much a that!

i will be adding more and more as i go am currently making an alloy air box here is some other pics just of what is possible with a bit of time and patience!

hope this helps any question just pm me if this isnt detailed enuf let me know can get right down to the nitty gritty!

cheers

soon to be alloy air box..

post-28208-1171705033.jpg

post-28208-1171705160.jpg

bit of time turned this

post-28208-1171705390.jpg

into this: nuthing to special but an improvement

post-28208-1171705589.jpg

post-28208-1171705870.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156809-my-fabrication-tips-and-projects/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you do go with drain back, make sure everything is foam or wool filled so it actually does something, and ensure there is a screen somewhere in the drain to catch anything that comes loose from the packing. I don't drain back
    • That's a good point. The rears of the covers themselves have no baffling at all though. Higher up more chance of air for venting the crank case. Lower on the side more likely to be submerged. I might be able to fit them on the sides but with both the sump drain fittings being on the drivers side the passenger one will need to make a U Turn and be nearer the turbo. But it will look neat being not up on top.
    • It won't likely matter where along the cam covers you put the big fittings. I would suggest putting them on the sides if you can, simply because it will reduce the flow up through the baffles and thus reduce the amount of oil that gets put into the foam. It might not matter, but it seems like something to consider as a worthwhile thing to avoid.
    • Well, I have my IM240 results with a cammed LS1... My Nox was 0.11 and my CO g/km was 0.2. Euro4 is 0.08 and 0.1 respectively. I'm gonna say for a stock RB this is actually plausible, BUT in Australia they were complied pre-Euro2, so the limits were: Which as you can see, is way higher. I'd say a stock RB with a new OEM Cat could? actually pass Euro4 for NOX but you'd probably have to do a hell of a lot of testing to prove it, and getting a car emissions tested and carrying a certificate of emissions when/if you get pulled over may be cost prohibitive if it's even allowable to get your car tested and re-classified. You'd have to find out what the UK Govt is using as reference material. It may be non-negotiable.
    • I made a little more progress last night and added some E85 safe fuel tank baffle foam in behind the stock cam cover baffle plate.  It still feels really wrong shoving foam inside the engine but apparently its fine based on it pretty much being the MINES/Hi-Octane RB26 cam baffle kit and the few posts here I have found of people doing it and the lack of posts saying the foam broke down and ruined the motor... Still plan to check it frequently though lol The last step for this round of oil control modifications I plan to make is to add some -12AN fittings to the cam covers and connect them to some (already existing luckily) -12AN fittings on the sump. Basically a sudo head drain/sump breather/pressure equaliser without having to remove the motor and do the one on the rear of the head. My plan is to add them to either the tops or the sides of the cam covers at the back. unless there is a compelling reason to have them at the front on the sides which i have seen a few times though they were all on RB26 cam covers from memory so that may be due to the stock breathers being on the back and the integral baffle being different ?    
×
×
  • Create New...