Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the avg exchange lately has been around the 95Yen mark.

edit/ ive emailed them as well, so we shall see what they are charging. If they say the go by the current echange rate, then they will be $491 as stated...

Edited by Bl4cK32

Beat ya to it :)

Hi Patrick,

Thank you for your enquiry. Below is price information as your request.

* SplitFire Super Direct Ignition System (Item Code: SF-DIS-005): 43100Yen (= currently A$459)

* Estimated shipping cost from Japan to your address in Australia: approximately A$50

To order the product, please use one of the order forms on our website.

Regards,

Taki

Perfect Run

Anyways main point is I've imported enough items to know most places won't give you top dollar on the exchange; I guess it's one of the ways they make a profit. But, Im not complaining cos, web based businesses like Perfect Run/ Nengun etc are still the cheapest around :kiss:

Well I might need to consider getting some brand new coilpacks.

As the ones i got from Kansai Borke down under load at high revs on boost.

Im not saying the ones kansai sold me are shit. I believe it might be something else that is causing the coil packs to shit themselves after a while of driving/ thrashing the crap out of my car to see if they are still working or not.

To get Splitfire Coilpacks from somewhere in SA they were going to charge me $917 for 6.

How about No Scotty. I cant fork out that sort of money for coil packs.

I might look into this Perfect Run shop and maybe get the ppl paying for my repairs to concider getting me these

well the trial period with my coil packs ended... back to missfiring with 0.75 bar of boost. now i need to contact slides and get some of my own. if anyone wants to borrow 6 split fires i might be able to arrage for you to test some out but im saying this without asking him (my mate)... see how we go. Im wrapping electrical earth tape around the coilpaks tonight so see if that will work. otherwise next week i should recieve splitfires from slides if i order them now.

Edited by Pauly33GTS-t

Hey Paul.

Can you send my a PM with picks of what your wrapping your tape around. i will consider this aswell after i have seen a pic of what you have done.

By the way. My missing problem is gone.

18 Coil packs sent away to be tested. 16 came back. 2 completely roasted due to overheating problem after fridays accident 2 weeks ago.

Dead coilpacks where both on the 2 rails i had sent away. 1 on each rail. If that makes sence.

I better make a cruise before I sell my car.

DAMMIT...............

There is a big DIY on this in the DIY section of SAU, it shows where and what the cracks appear as and how to tape them. I'm going to try using earthing tape as it is more heat resistant that normal electrical tape. otherwise im going to crank out hi temp silicon goop and slap that on the sides of the coilpaks.

I'll take pics once I'm done for ya. k. I'll also take pics of what gapping my spark plugs will be set to aswell.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sorry the pictures suck. So hard to get camera and light in there
    • One of the first jobs with the E39 is making sure the tailgate stays up. In BMW fashion they made a little cavity under the roof to hide the dampers rather than putting them down the side like everybody else.  As you can see I have these little cavities that house the dampers. When I cleared one out and vacuumed as much crap as I could out of it I noticed a fair bit of rust. The cavity is bone dry, even after all that rain we had only a few days ago so I'm assuming that whatever allowed the moisture in is fixed but I'd like to treat the rust in there.  I was thinking of just blasting it full of rust converter but I didn't know if this would be beneficial considering I can't actually get in there to prep anything.  Maybe there's a better product?  Thanks guys
    • Had a few skylines over the years anyway bought this a few years ago for skidz i think it’s been around these traps for a while anyway I plan to thrash and trash and I assume it’s going to send me broke good times
    • The stock boost solenoid is just a valve. Power it and it is open. Unpowered, it is closed. When it is closed, there is no boost bleed out through the solenoid back to the inlet. The wastegate sees all the boost pressure, thus you get the wastegate's spring pressure as your boost pressure. 5 psi. When it is open, it lets some boost escape. This causes the static (boost) pressure in the line to the wastegate to be lower than the pressure in the intercooler pipe. There is probably a small restrictor in the solenoid or one of its lines to limit the flow rate of the escaping air, which limits how far the static pressure can fall, which limits the extra boost. The boost has to climb above the original/wastegate setpoint until the wastegate sees 5 psi. You get 7 psi in the intercooler pipework. A manual boost controller is exactly the same setup, just without the ability to change it on-off. It's always set to whatever you set it to. There is a small leak from the boost controller. The more you screw the adjuster in, the more it leaks, the lower the pressure seen at the wastegate and the higher the boost will be. So, yes, your diagrams are correct.
    • Hi everyone, Apologies in advance if this feels like a topic covered multiple times. I'm only asking because some of the old topics I found are missing images now. I'm in the process of getting a manual boost controller (BC). Nothing fancy, just getting a manual one for now as I don't plan to go crazy with it and would not go over 10 PSI. My car is not jacked up on boost steroids to do crazy numbers. I want to understand the OEM setup of the boost solenoid and vacuum lines on the R34 GTT so I know what needs to be changed when I do install the BC. I sketched the current setup to the best I could see and it's on the diagram attached. If the boost controller 'Wastegate Arrow' goes from nipple 1 to 2. My understanding is that the red vacuum line's "F" connector-end should be connected to BC nipple #2? Nipple #1 is meant to have the "pressure source" so what vacuum line would that be? Is it the green vacuum line?  From what I have read here, the OEM boost solenoid is not used at this point. So that can come out and then I can just plug the nipple that usually connects to the blue vacuum line?  So would the final setup look something like this?   Thanks in advance. I don't want to already be knee-deep into pulling out vacuum lines before understanding this. I'm a noob when it comes to boost setups so trying to learn as I go.
×
×
  • Create New...