Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the avg exchange lately has been around the 95Yen mark.

edit/ ive emailed them as well, so we shall see what they are charging. If they say the go by the current echange rate, then they will be $491 as stated...

Edited by Bl4cK32

Beat ya to it :)

Hi Patrick,

Thank you for your enquiry. Below is price information as your request.

* SplitFire Super Direct Ignition System (Item Code: SF-DIS-005): 43100Yen (= currently A$459)

* Estimated shipping cost from Japan to your address in Australia: approximately A$50

To order the product, please use one of the order forms on our website.

Regards,

Taki

Perfect Run

Anyways main point is I've imported enough items to know most places won't give you top dollar on the exchange; I guess it's one of the ways they make a profit. But, Im not complaining cos, web based businesses like Perfect Run/ Nengun etc are still the cheapest around :kiss:

Well I might need to consider getting some brand new coilpacks.

As the ones i got from Kansai Borke down under load at high revs on boost.

Im not saying the ones kansai sold me are shit. I believe it might be something else that is causing the coil packs to shit themselves after a while of driving/ thrashing the crap out of my car to see if they are still working or not.

To get Splitfire Coilpacks from somewhere in SA they were going to charge me $917 for 6.

How about No Scotty. I cant fork out that sort of money for coil packs.

I might look into this Perfect Run shop and maybe get the ppl paying for my repairs to concider getting me these

well the trial period with my coil packs ended... back to missfiring with 0.75 bar of boost. now i need to contact slides and get some of my own. if anyone wants to borrow 6 split fires i might be able to arrage for you to test some out but im saying this without asking him (my mate)... see how we go. Im wrapping electrical earth tape around the coilpaks tonight so see if that will work. otherwise next week i should recieve splitfires from slides if i order them now.

Edited by Pauly33GTS-t

Hey Paul.

Can you send my a PM with picks of what your wrapping your tape around. i will consider this aswell after i have seen a pic of what you have done.

By the way. My missing problem is gone.

18 Coil packs sent away to be tested. 16 came back. 2 completely roasted due to overheating problem after fridays accident 2 weeks ago.

Dead coilpacks where both on the 2 rails i had sent away. 1 on each rail. If that makes sence.

I better make a cruise before I sell my car.

DAMMIT...............

There is a big DIY on this in the DIY section of SAU, it shows where and what the cracks appear as and how to tape them. I'm going to try using earthing tape as it is more heat resistant that normal electrical tape. otherwise im going to crank out hi temp silicon goop and slap that on the sides of the coilpaks.

I'll take pics once I'm done for ya. k. I'll also take pics of what gapping my spark plugs will be set to aswell.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
    • Should have taken that opportunity to slot in a twin scroll turbo setup. Maybe next time.
×
×
  • Create New...