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Okay guys. You know how most people say that the ideal twin turbo setup for the RB26 is the HKS 2530s? They say that is the turbo that will produce the most WHP as well as be the most responsive. Where you get the best bang for your buck as far as power and responsiveness goes?

Well I was wondering, what twin turbo would that be for the RB30? Of course with the extra liters you could go a bigger turbo and not worry as much about spoolup. So what would you guys think the ideal twin turbo setup would be for the RB30? One that produces say 750-800WHP and is still as responsive as possible? (relative of course)

-Sayajin

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If you want to stay with twin low mounts, I'm sure there's nothing wrong with using the 25/30s. Will still deliver penty of top end and will provide very good response as you have requested.

For even more top end, GT-RS terbs will suit the extra cubes of the RB30 very well (I'm very happy with the response of these on my 2.8L).

If you want to stay with twin low mounts, I'm sure there's nothing wrong with using the 25/30s. Will still deliver penty of top end and will provide very good response as you have requested.

For even more top end, GT-RS terbs will suit the extra cubes of the RB30 very well (I'm very happy with the response of these on my 2.8L).

Well I dont really care if they are low mount or not as I will be going with a custom TT manifold. I do want to keep the twins tho. I realize most people end up going single, but I personally just love the idea of twins.

When do you get boost on your 2.8L with the GT-RS turbos? I dont know if those will produce enough power for me however as I am looking for about 750WHP.

I am really leaning towards one of these 2 turbos. Garrett 3071 or Garrett 2560 -10.

The top one is the Garrett equivlent of the HKS 3070s. I know a few guys who are running these on RB30's. The other one produces about 15 less HP each, but may spool up a good bit faster. Unfortunately I am still learning how to read compressor maps so I cant tell for sure. Here are the maps on both turbos.

Here is the map for the 3071

GT3071R_700382_20_com_e.gif

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...R_700382_20.htm

Here is the 2560 -10

707160-10comp_e.gif

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...R_707160_10.htm

So based upon these maps, what do you guys think? Which one of these turbos would be better for 750WHP and responsiveness?

-Sayajin

Wow, no one has any ideas?

-Sayajin

Its because in a number of your threads now you has asked this.

And many people have told you now the same thing...

You want 800rwhp, you need GT-RS or similar.

cheers

Sorry man. I dont mean to ask redundant questions. The only reason I ask now is because all of my previous questions were regarding the 2.6L motor. Seeing as how it will be a 3.0L I would think there would be significant difference in turbo options.

That is the only reason I have asked the question again. I do apologize for any inconvenience.

I looked at the GT-RS turbos as were suggested initially, however it does not appear those will put out 750WHP. It seems they are good for about 650WHP or so. 800BHP or so. So I wanted to get opinions on something a bit larger.

Thanks.

-Sayajin

I really think you need to forget the numbers, and concentrate on the overall package. Realistically 600RWKW is more than can be used on a street car, as to make those power levels, the torque delivery characteristics will involve lag, and a skijump torque curve, whick IMO doesnt work well on a street(or circuit)car. Dont let AWD change what you are designing as in the real world with this sort of power exiting a corner and coming on boost mid corner i would alost prefer to just have 2 wheels break traction than 4 and be fighting torque steer at the same time. Just remember torque wins races and the throttle can controll big midrange torque, not so much rapid torque changes

Sorry man. I dont mean to ask redundant questions. The only reason I ask now is because all of my previous questions were regarding the 2.6L motor. Seeing as how it will be a 3.0L I would think there would be significant difference in turbo options.

That is the only reason I have asked the question again. I do apologize for any inconvenience.

I looked at the GT-RS turbos as were suggested initially, however it does not appear those will put out 750WHP. It seems they are good for about 650WHP or so. 800BHP or so. So I wanted to get opinions on something a bit larger.

Thanks.

-Sayajin

Your not going to have any traction with 600rwkw so i think your wanting response isnt going to matter a lot when your shredding tyres coming onto boost in 1-2-3-4 as you wont notice the response as you'll be more concerned about holding the car in a straight line rather than it 4 wheel sliding

All having a 3ltr is doing is shifting the power band to the left on a dyno sheet. It does not change what the turbos will output.

If your after that much, i would be getting a big single anyhow. Less mucking around.

Your problem is your trying to link Response & Big Power. They simply do not go together.

Your either going to build a very quick car with excellent average power or your going to build a dyno queen with massive numbers but no useable power band.

What do you want?

Humm.. once it is put into perspective it makes a lot more sense. I suppose that should have been something intuitively obvious! :wave:

I guess I have been hanging out with the Supra boys too much... Alas.

Also, I dont think that the 3.0L will change the turbo output. However it should reduce the amount of lag produced. So a turbo which is laggy on the 2.6L, may be perfect for the 3.0L.

Yea, I DEFINETLY want something that is usable on the street with a good power band. A dyno queen doesnt do anything for me. I could care less about unusable power.

With that said, I may be keeping my Twin 2530's after all. It makes a lot more sense once it is fully thought out. Sorry about that guys. Guess I was putting the cart before the horse. Based upon what I REALLY want to do, those may be ideal. I may have a look at the GT-RS's as those seem to have good results when used as a twin setup. However that may be the biggest I go...

Buster- I am sorry if you took offense to my sig. I meant no disrespect by it. I suppose you had to see the context of when it was used. It was actually quite funny. I suppose without knowing the whole story it may seem machoist. I apologize if it came off that way. Wasnt intended at all.

-Sayajin

Edited by Sayajin
Plenty of us women know and could probably help, but with a comment like that in your signature I'd rather choke on my own spew then help you

that one hit a neve! :huh:

P.S you know its true :wave:

Might be worth asking this question on GTROC, a few of the fellas have run GT-RS's on OSG RB30's.

Spec-wise the 707160-10's are very very similar to the GT-RS with the exception of the HKS GT-RS ported inlet.

Thanks. I spoke to a few of them and they all had good results with them

Quite a few of the big boys swear by the 3070s however. LOL. That is why I began to ask about them.

I think I will just go with the GT-RS however as it will get me what I REALLY want. A responsive and fast street machine.

-Sayajin

Thanks. I spoke to a few of them and they all had good results with them

Quite a few of the big boys swear by the 3070s however. LOL. That is why I began to ask about them.

I think I will just go with the GT-RS however as it will get me what I REALLY want. A responsive and fast street machine.

-Sayajin

Another good thing about the -10's are that they're a bolt on whereas the 3071's are going to need custom dump pipes although Rob could obviously knock those up for you.

Another good thing about the -10's are that they're a bolt on whereas the 3071's are going to need custom dump pipes although Rob could obviously knock those up for you.

Well between the -10s and the GT-RS, which would you prefer? I have already decided that the 3070s are unrealistic for what I hope to do with my car...

-Sayajin

Just my 2c worth .

Twins are always going to be a pain on that kind of car but not because there's anything really wrong with two hair dryers aside from cost/complexity/access/weight . If you want to play (experiment) with turbos its double trouble because of the cost and time involved . For example you get what you think is right but then decide say the turbine housing A/R is wrong - look at the work and cost involved in changing them and compare that to altering a single . Lots of things were changed to get parallel T28's on RB26's and the changes make the bits unique to that application . Generic bits like many singles have often cost less and are easy to sell on if you need to .

One big advantage I feel singles have is that incremental changes are easier to manage and if careful the result you aimed for is more easily achievable . Like in the above example going up a size in turbine housing with twins can be a larger jump than with a single .

Anyway with twins you have to decide high or low , integral or external gate and go from there . If they are T28 turbine housing based ie 2530 , 2871/GT-RS low and integral makes for a sort of factory like install . An RB30 should pull the state of tune down ~ 20% and give more off boost torque so how you go about keeping the turbos out of boost when you don't need them is the $64 question . If you are prepared to use external gate/s you could possibly get twin HKS GT2835 turbos with smaller compressor trim options and their GT30 based T28 flange turbine housings with small A/R's ie .61 or .73 to work but I hope your rich if you do this .

With singles something in the GT3582R - TO4Z range would work well .

Your money your call .

My 2c spent .

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