Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys/gals im wondering how much rear wheel kilowatt do u need to achieve a high 12 second pass down the 1/4 mile in a r33 gtst?

im curious to see what ppl come up with cause i have no clue.. i know the driver plays a big role too.

if u can guys plz post your times with the power you made at the wheels

cheers :/

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156968-how-to-achieve-high-12s/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 70
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

200rwkw

drag radials

suspension work

prefect launch

prefect conditions (high track temp)

250rwkw

drag radials

suspension work

ordinary launch

good conditions

Pretty much spot on

But if you cant (as most people on a budget cant afford em) buy drag radials, make sure you set your tyre psi much lower then normal.. I think around 20psi?

Also, remove all the rubish that will slow you down, like subs, amps, spare tyre (leave them in a mates car just incase you blow them), rear seats (for the wank factor), ect ect..

Edited by DjeMz
My post is based on times i've actually run in my car which is the same as the one in question. I have seen absolutely no reason to upgrade a diff to achieve these aims.

fair enough :( not all skyline are the same, i've just found that my diff may be letting me down

' date='19 Feb 2007, 02:46 PM' post='2916198']

fair enough :( not all skyline are the same, i've just found that my diff may be letting me down

112mph wih 251kw and 13flat 1/4mile time

reason y im asking this is cause my tuner thinks i can only make 210 atw if im lucky due to my mods.. i thought i could make more tell me what u guys/gals think?

pfc, fmic, hiflow turb, stock injectors, 040 f/pump, 3in turb back exhaust w hiflow cat, k@n pod

car has been lowered from japan but there compressed springs.

' date='19 Feb 2007, 02:46 PM' post='2916198']

fair enough :( not all skyline are the same, i've just found that my diff may be letting me down

True. If you're diff is open-wheeling (spinning one leg) then it should be repaired or replaced. Fair enough.

reason y im asking this is cause my tuner thinks i can only make 210 atw if im lucky due to my mods.. i thought i could make more tell me what u guys/gals think?

pfc, fmic, hiflow turb, stock injectors, 040 f/pump, 3in turb back exhaust w hiflow cat, k@n pod

car has been lowered from japan but there compressed springs.

it's your injectors that are gonna let you down. All the other mods can get you to 250RWKW. The standard injectors run out of puff at around 210 to 220 max. CAMS, injectors and Z32 AFM will get you to 250 easily..........dependent on the quality of the hi-flow

it's your injectors that are gonna let you down. All the other mods can get you to 250RWKW. The standard injectors run out of puff at around 210 to 220 max. CAMS, injectors and Z32 AFM will get you to 250 easily..........dependent on the quality of the hi-flow

its the sliding hiflow that ive got.. how do they compare to say GCG?

i only bought it cause it was cheaper and has to be better than stock lol :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...