Pics Of Fmic Fitment To S1 R33

[benl1981]

Can you leave your bar looking completely stock from the outside if you cut a bit of the reinforcement bar?

Is it ok with the RTA etc to cut some of this bar?

Anybody got pics of a Justjap install that looks sleeperish?

Thanks

Edited February 19, 2007 by benl1981

[boss33]

hey yeh ive got pics of mine stock s1 bar u can do it but uve gota cut out a big chunk of the front reo angel the cooler back and a fair bit of cutting off the rear off the bar but it can be done with out seaing it from the out side pm ue email and ill send sum to u

[Kennedy]

Can you leave your bar looking completely stock from the outside if you cut a bit of the reinforcement bar?

Is it ok with the RTA etc to cut some of this bar?

Anybody got pics of a Justjap install that looks sleeperish?

Thanks

Here you go. Mine is a standard series 1 bar...NOT type M

[Kennedy]

Had to grind off quite a bit of the back of the front bar and shave the back of the indicators. Piss easy with a cheap angle grinder. (reo bar will require a decent cutting disc though)

[benl1981]

thanks Lads. Nice pics Kennedy!!

I like the look of it. Mine is non M type also..did you do it yourself?

[12DFY]

Here is another one mate, exactly same as for a four door. The Reo needs a little trim and there is plenty of excess bumper you can remove with no adverse look. Indicator lights can sometimes need to be cut but there are certain types that will fit without modification.

[MANWHORE]

No you can't. you definitely have to chop the frotn bar.

I absolkutely would not chop the front bar reinforcement at all.

Yes, it VERY much is a roadworthy item. You will die easier in a collision and it will void your insurance.

The front bar reo (useless as people think it is) ties the two chassis rails together. In a collission, the reo causes the chassis rails to take the force. AS you know, the chassis rails run along the car, so it's in the direction of the collision for a head on.

If you don' thave the reo, in a head on collission in the middle between the chassis rails, there is essentially notmuch stopping the item e.g. a tree from going straight through, and punching your engine backwards through the firewall into the cabin. How much do you like your legs?

Also, it ties the chassis rails together sideways. If you get a hit from the front side, instead of one chassis rail taking all the hit and getting bent heaps, the load is spread over to the other one too.

I have a friend who's insurnace was voided. He ran head on, into a traffic light pole at about 70ks. The pole punched the motor backwards. You guessed it. No reo at all. He removed it to fit a veilside front bar. Insurance voided. He lost his car, and he had to pay for the traffic light! Imagine if it was a speed camera. Do you know ho wmuhc those are worth?

Out of everything you can modify on a car, please don't play with the impact protection. Its like why don't you just chuck out the side intrusion bars for weight reduction.

You CAN install a fmic without chopping the reo. I have done it a few times on a skyline. I won't install one if it requires chopping.

Edited February 19, 2007 by MANWHORE

[benl1981]

Thanks Chris..want to make sure it's still legal!

Scott, yours looks great. I wonder if I could do something like that without trimming the front bar reinforcement...my 4 door is same colour etc.

I just had a look at my car and I reckon unless you used about a 50mm core you would not be able to get it in there without trimming the reo bar...

Edited February 19, 2007 by benl1981

[MANWHORE]

On the sII r33s you can fit it inside the reo. Is yours a sII?

Also, If you cut the front bar neatly/get a new frotn bar, it will allow you to fit omsehting big in front of the reo.

On the sII front bars, there's this big section at the mouth of the bar, where it just goes back and does nothing. If this section is trimmed neatly, so that the mouth doesn't go back as far, you can't tell it's trimmed

[benl1981]

no. Mine is S1 unfortunately.

I'm going to have to look into this more..maybe get something a bit smaller than 600x300x76.

[Kennedy]

On the sII r33s you can fit it inside the reo. Is yours a sII?

Also, If you cut the front bar neatly/get a new frotn bar, it will allow you to fit omsehting big in front of the reo.

On the sII front bars, there's this big section at the mouth of the bar, where it just goes back and does nothing. If this section is trimmed neatly, so that the mouth doesn't go back as far, you can't tell it's trimmed

Read his first post. It's an S1 and he wants ti fit a FMIC behind his S1 bar and not his S2 bar or a new front bar.

Also...please dont compare your less than smart friend's idea of removing his reo bar to our suggestions of trimming it. Two different scenrio's. Engineers clear trimming all the time....as long as the cut is clean an the surface us treated with corrosion protectant after. It usually only requires 10mm max of trimming. This is mainly due to the design of the pipes that came with the cooler or the brackets that came with it. I dont think anyone on here was thinking of taking out their reo bar completely.

[Kennedy]

thanks Lads. Nice pics Kennedy!!

I like the look of it. Mine is non M type also..did you do it yourself?

Sure did. Pretty proud of it. First attempt at a FMIC install

[benl1981]

thanks for the feedback guys..

Shouldn't have to get it engineered just for the FMIC though right? Just make it look clean etc.

[Kennedy]

Here is another one mate, exactly same as for a four door. The Reo needs a little trim and there is plenty of excess bumper you can remove with no adverse look. Indicator lights can sometimes need to be cut but there are certain types that will fit without modification.

Looks cool. Perhaps drill some holes into your number plate more towards the middle so you can mount the plate across the bar rather than dangling.......

[MANWHORE]

Read his first post. It's an S1 and he wants ti fit a FMIC behind his S1 bar and not his S2 bar or a new front bar.

Also...please dont compare your less than smart friend's idea of removing his reo bar to our suggestions of trimming it. Two different scenrio's. Engineers clear trimming all the time....as long as the cut is clean an the surface us treated with corrosion protectant after. It usually only requires 10mm max of trimming. This is mainly due to the design of the pipes that came with the cooler or the brackets that came with it. I dont think anyone on here was thinking of taking out their reo bar completely.

Ben, yes, any structural modification to the car must be engineered. Just because you make it clean, doesn't make it legal or roadworthy.

Just because engineers clear it, doens't mean that it's good. Anything that you take from the reo is making you that amount less safe and allowing more damage to occur in an accident. Also, that's not what most people do from the pics i've seen on sau. Most people seem to chop the whole front of the reo off.

I'm just letting Ben know of the possibilities that can occur when the reo is modified or removed.

Also letting him know that with ingenuity, it is possible to install one without modifying the reo. On a sI, My friend has a smaller jap core with piping on the same side which is smaller than the typical just jap kit and it fits without the reo being modified.

Also, if he needs to get a new front bar, then so be it? Better that than chopping the reo

Edited February 19, 2007 by MANWHORE

[RESP33z]

I had my hybrid cooler fitted at Platinum in Rydalmere. They had to take a little but off the BACK of the front bar, but I don't believe they cut the reinforcement. They had to trim my fan blades to clear piping. But thats all. It was a hybrid kit and a type M front bar (R33). You cant tell from the outside that the front bar had been cut at all..it looks very discreet.

They charged @250 installation

The guy I spoke to is Danny

[mjones]

Ben, yes, any structural modification to the car must be engineered. Just because you make it clean, doesn't make it legal or roadworthy.

Just because engineers clear it, doens't mean that it's good. Anything that you take from the reo is making you that amount less safe and allowing more damage to occur in an accident. Also, that's not what most people do from the pics i've seen on sau. Most people seem to chop the whole front of the reo off.

I'm just letting Ben know of the possibilities that can occur when the reo is modified or removed.

Also letting him know that with ingenuity, it is possible to install one without modifying the reo. On a sI, My friend has a smaller jap core with piping on the same side which is smaller than the typical just jap kit and it fits without the reo being modified.

Also, if he needs to get a new front bar, then so be it? Better that than chopping the reo

i have a blitz front mount,uses all standard piping but still had to have 25mm trimmed out of the BACK of the reo,i'd like to see someone fit one without trimming the reo!!!!!!!!!!!!and for the mspec bar all they need is the bottom air duct trimmed back

Edited February 20, 2007 by mjones

[mattymagoo22]

The rio thats removed when you fit a front mount to a S1 aint going to stop any pole at any speed, and don't you take your car to get engineered so that they can assess if its safe not how it "LOOKS" and usually a neat job is done right hence its being passed.

And your mates insurance could have been knocked back for any reason tires bald, not informing company of mods and at 70ks if they could tell that the rio was missing amongst all the carnage then I salute them.

Cheers Matt.

[benl1981]

Hey guys. Can you keep the stock airbox and snorkel with the Just Jap FMIC.

I see on some cars the return pipe up from intercooler up to manifold interferes with the snorkel.

Cheers

[ULOOOK]

Read his first post. It's an S1 and he wants ti fit a FMIC behind his S1 bar and not his S2 bar or a new front bar.

Also...please dont compare your less than smart friend's idea of removing his reo bar to our suggestions of trimming it. Two different scenrio's. Engineers clear trimming all the time....as long as the cut is clean an the surface us treated with corrosion protectant after. It usually only requires 10mm max of trimming. This is mainly due to the design of the pipes that came with the cooler or the brackets that came with it. I dont think anyone on here was thinking of taking out their reo bar completely.

Are you saying that you have had a car engineered with the reo "cut or trimmed"?

I spoke to an engineer who said he would not pass my car due to the reo being "trimmed"

Can you pm me his contact details so i can speak with him about the matter further?