Jump to content
SAU Community

Noise

donut_kng

By donut_kng,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

donut_kng Experienced

donut_kng

Posted
Posted

Heres another noise/hiss problem everyone hates which has just decided to appear in my sound system. Heres how the story goes..

Installed in my 33 is a Kenwood TV/DVD screen 6" splits at the front, 6x9's in the rear all running off a Kenwood 4 channel amp. Recently I have been doing some trialing of my Fusion sub and amp setup just to test whether the size of the box is good or if there are any leaks in my fibreglass box.

As soon as I hooked up the sub and amp, I have now found a faint but annoying hissy whining noise coming through the 4 in cabin speakers mentioned above. The amp for the sub is separate, as well as all the wiring. The only thing I have tapped into off the other amp is the remote/ignition wire, everything else is independant.

I believe that it could possibly be the RCA cable for the 4 speakers as when they are disconnected, whilst the system it on, the noise stops. Also when I put a noise filter inline with the RCA's the noise also stops. I do not want to resort to using filters as the system worked fine before and also they reduce sound quality as I have dsicover through experience. All RCA leads are out of sight of power cables even more so when the setup was working perfectly.

My next step will be to remove the complete sub and amp setup and see if the noise disappears, untill then, does anyone have any ideas on how to stop this for when I do the final fit on my subs and amps?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157074-noise/
Share on other sites
donut_kng Experienced

donut_kng

Posted
  • Author
Posted
try earthing the rca's.

it sounds like the noise is being generated by them.

Strip back the plastic, earth the outher sheild and try that.

Fusion amps are clean and wont produce noise.

To test this, can I take a piece of 1 or 2mm wire and connect the outer sheld of the RCA's with an earth point? What would be a permanent way of doing this?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157074-noise/#findComment-2919374
Share on other sites
Gazee Grand Master

Gazee

Posted
Posted

If the setup was working perfectly it could be that the amp has gone faulty... (just a possibility)

If you can get your hands on another amp to try it out that would be the best and easiest way, i've screwed around for hours, re earthing the system, adding extra earths to my current electrical system, adding more earths to my head unit, filters, earthing the rca's, changing the rca's all that shit..

Then i changed my amp.. wala

If you can borrow one do that to eliminate the easiest and most likely problem (considering it was working before)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157074-noise/#findComment-2919528
Share on other sites
RANDY Veteran

RANDY

Posted
Posted

The grounding of the RCA's.... heh...

Pretty sure that if you plug the RCA's in while the system is powered on, you can kill the grounding in the amp and/or headunit. After that, the grounding is gone and the noise comes in.

I had 50/50 luck with grounding the RCA's to the chassis. The noise went completely from one set of RCA's, and about 50% from the others. My headunit also had a blown ground track on a PCB, which I repaired, but it made no difference.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157074-noise/#findComment-2920520
Share on other sites
donut_kng Experienced

donut_kng

Posted
  • Author
Posted

dyken: Its not engine noise, its a hissing noise that happens when the car is not running

Ok, I have completly pulled out the fusion amp sub setup and the system is now fine again. So I am assuming that the RCA's which I used for the extra amp were picking up the noise and sending it through the whole lot. Ill paly with different sets of RCA's, etc.

I'll sort it out once I have finished spraying and trimming all my fibreglass bits, as long as I know what the porblem area is now it should be easy to fix once I get to that point.

Thanks for the help

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157074-noise/#findComment-2920673
Share on other sites
danielr34 Collaborator

danielr34

Posted
Posted

wouldnt be surprised if it is a problem with the amp, you get that every now and then, even new amps can have an internal earth leak causing alternator noise through ingress. They might exchange it under warranty.

If not the amp maybe adding a condensor for the alternator might help.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157074-noise/#findComment-2920951
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      R32 GTR clutch master cylinder adapters

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, that is a helpful description, because that sounds exactly like a bleeding issue in the clutch....these are hard to bleed manually even when the damping loop has been removed. I'd suggest bleeding again....start by filling the master cylinder up and opening the bleed nipple. Come back and check every now and then that the master cylinder is not empty. Let it gravity bleed for a few hours and see if that improves
    • weikleenget
      R32 GTR clutch master cylinder adapters

      By weikleenget · Posted

      I replaced the whole clutch line with the chase bays braided hose, I think it removes that loop, is it the short hose that comes immediately off the slave or is there a drawing in the manual to find what you’re referring to? It was just re-bled when I upgraded to the nismo slave, old slave worked fine but I thought that might help, didn’t change a thing. It’s like the first half of the pedal is pushing air and then when it finally actuates the master the friction zone is tiny. Makes it practically impossible to launch the car
    • Kinkstaah
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • The Bogan
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By The Bogan · Posted

      I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • The Bogan
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By The Bogan · Posted

      If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
×
×
  • Create New...