Jump to content
SAU Community

Orc Twin Plates

N1GTR
 Share

Recommended Posts

N1GTR Grand Master

N1GTR

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

I have to buy a new clutch for my R32 GTR and i stumbled into these on nengun.

There's one rated for 700ps, price isnt bad either Link to site - http://www.nengun.com/orc/709-series-twin-plate-clutch-700ps

Anyone used one before? Anyone got one?

Tell me your opinions :wave:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157154-orc-twin-plates/
Share on other sites
rinmak Proficient

rinmak

Posted
Posted
  mambastu said:
I've been running a 709D on my RB25 for about 2.5 years now. Light and very well made. Hooks up very well. I'm using a standard RB25 slave cylinder on mine and the pedal pressure feels similar to a standard clutch.

Really? Does that make it hard to drive at all? I find light pedals + harsh clutches are a bad combination personally.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157154-orc-twin-plates/#findComment-2941264
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...
klys Apprentice

klys

Posted
Posted

Can anyone help me?

I bought an ORC 709D Clutch, I already have an unknown twin plate in there.

so I have a shorter bearing carrier. I also have an aftermarket NSK bearing(That I had installed last year)

Will I need to buy a new bearing for this one. What do I need to look for in a bigger slave cylinder? part # please?

any info is welcome!

THANKS!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157154-orc-twin-plates/#findComment-3022575
Share on other sites
STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted
  rinmak said:
Really? Does that make it hard to drive at all? I find light pedals + harsh clutches are a bad combination personally.

Nah the ORC/BLITZ clutches have a very pregressive pedal even though it is light, once the OS is shagged in ours it is getting the flick for anothe ORC/BLITZ twin.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157154-orc-twin-plates/#findComment-3023970
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
ylwgtr2 Grand Master

ylwgtr2

Posted
Posted (edited)

thats because you need driving lessons marcus :rofl:

There really not that bad...i got a quad plate OS in mine and a freind of mine also has a quad plate in his supra and they work well.....If you rest your heel on the floor and hinge your ankle you can take off with no throttle at all....trying to use them without stalling or hopping by bending your knee is almost imposible.....its like trying to use a clutch lever on a motorbike by holding the lever with your fingers and pulling your shoulder back as apposed to using it the proper way by using your fingers to squeeze and release it....try it with hinging your ankle.....i think you will be suprised on how easy they are to use (unless you have a size 6 foot)

Edited by ylwgtr2
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157154-orc-twin-plates/#findComment-3165255
Share on other sites
Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted
  ylwgtr2 said:
thats because you need driving lessons marcus :rofl:

There really not that bad...i got a quad plate OS in mine and a freind of mine also has a quad plate in his supra and they work well.....If you rest your heel on the floor and hinge your ankle you can take off with no throttle at all....trying to use them without stalling or hopping by bending your knee is almost imposible.....its like trying to use a clutch lever on a motorbike by holding the lever with your fingers and pulling your shoulder back as apposed to using it the proper way by using your fingers to squeeze and release it....try it with hinging your ankle.....i think you will be suprised on how easy they are to use (unless you have a size 6 foot)

that is exactly what I said to marcus. i have been using os tripple in my GTR. basically I just adjusted the rod so the pick-up is not too far off the floor, then I can easily keep my heel on the floor and only lift it once the clutch is completely engaged. makes it much easier to feel the friction point. :laugh:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157154-orc-twin-plates/#findComment-3165268
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • DRoc81
      Shifting questions

      By DRoc81 · Posted

      This was a huge help.  We followed the steps,  although shifting into 2nd was actually into 3rd for us,  and 1st was into 2nd ( steps 9 and 11) .  The long flash was the 4th flash.  So shift solenoid A is possibly the culprit.  Is this inside the transmission itself? Or is it accessible by just front the pan? Or is it bolted to the outside of the transmission?  Thanos for your help everyone
    • sunsetR33
      ugently need expert / experienced opinion

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Can you enlighten me on your best practice regarding these hoses? I don't wanna make the same mistake if you already got a better solution.
    • sunsetR33
      ugently need expert / experienced opinion

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      I have some silicon hoses already, for example engine to watercooler. But yeah, I get the sentiment. The lower intercooler silicon hose is drippy too, despite not being very old. Does anyone except Nismo make these same lines out of rubber? Long term I think they'd be the better replacement, especially since the car won't live as hard a life anymore as in the past nor be driven as often.
    • sunsetR33
      ugently need expert / experienced opinion

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      I know most issues are just age related. But for example the turbo oil drains, there is dash adapters for these and you can just make a braided teflon line for them and (probably) never have them leak again. Also not terribly expensive. Can you even get the factory hardlines from new? Or are they repairable if they break?
    • sunsetR33
      ugently need expert / experienced opinion

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      I know it'd be much much easier with the tool. I hope I can find one that won't take 3 weeks to get to me an isn't a "Asian models kit" that has tons of (to me) useless adapters for a load of cash.   It's a summer project/fun car. I do wanna enjoy it, without endless downtime over and over. So yeah I would even go and buy an engine crane + stand to save myself the trouble of hard to reach or unreachable places going bad later on. Would also be a good opportunity to put on a Fluidamper, renew the mains seals and stuff like that. I have some money on the side that I can use for that, what I wouldn't want to or be able to do is let everything be done by a shop or have my engine completely rebuild right now. I intend to do most of the "doable" jobs myself. Pulling an engine can't be that hard, can it?
×
×
  • Create New...