Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all

now my cooler piping is all good n sweet, but is it just me, of that pipe that goes to the cooler (just under where i circled).. isnt that a blitz BOV pipe???

That stainless steel bit that i circled (I know theres a clamp missing in the photo, thats coz it keeps breaking), what can i replace it with that wont keep poping out when i hit boost? The pipe is too short, so i got a longer pipe made out, but still because that blitz bov pipe thing is so darn loose, it keeps poping out :S

I was going to try this, but thought id ask sum1 first..

1. Get STRONGER clamps

2. Cable tie the intake cooler pipe to that one i circled by the clamps (so the cable ties don't melt)

3. Not go insane.

OR,

Just change it with a stock pipe???

Sorry if its a bit confusing, in a bit of a rush

:)

Cheers

post-30963-1171934939.jpg

Edited by DjeMz

1) better clamps

2) weld a lip/ridge around the edge of each pipe so the clamp actually has something to grip onto

If they both wont work, then your pipes have too much weight pulling on them/pushing which probably isnt helping

Where can i get stronger clamps?

I paid $6 each for the ones i got now (supposed to be EXTRA HEAVY DUTY from autobarn... pft), i only bought 4 for that area, and 2 of em snapped when i tightened them.. T

oh man... i have battled with cooler pipes for months at a time on two different cars now.

hard spots that that too!!

u need to have a few dots welds on the end, or flange the pipe out a bit. either way. make sure its long enough., u said u already have, so the beads or flange is the answer now.

breaking clamps.... hmmmm, never heard that before... sounds dodgy....

Autobarn... problem right there.

Places like Enzed, Purple Pig, Pirtek, they are the places to see for decent clamps :)

agreed with above... or go and see mack trucks... or someone that specialises in truck parts, their clamps are gold, and as ash said about welding the lip around the edge if it dont have em already...

Autobarn = Lowest value for money :laugh:

Ummmm.... why is there only 1 clamp on the silicone joiner you have circled?

If that is how it is configured normally, I'm not surprised it's blowing off. There should be a second clamp there.

As others have said, go to a truck parts supplier, they have proper heavy duty T-bolt hose clamps

If you are only using 1 clamp on that pipe like Lazy-Bastard said then that will be your problem (obviously)

He said that it is only missing in photo due to breaking regularly. You need to get hold of aviation style clamps, they have a band aroun 15-20mm wide and use a 10mm bolt rather than the shit arse little screws. About 4-5 bucks each but guaranteed never to snap again....

Obvious answer. redo your pipe work, your's is dodgy. You have 2 extra joints in that photo alone.

Unless you are running 20+ psi of boost heavy duty clamps are not needed, worm drive clamps are sufficient. I'd suggest that as your engine rocks it is putting strain on the pipe and pulling it off, or you don't have a lip on your piping and it is being blown off under boost.

had a similar problem...every time i hit boost the pipe would swoosh off....

then i took the pipe right off and relized that i left the WD-40 on the end of the pipe that i used to put it on with in the first place....once i cleaned it all off the thing has never flung off since....dont laugh it was a blonde moment :O

Obvious answer. redo your pipe work, your's is dodgy. You have 2 extra joints in that photo alone.

Unless you are running 20+ psi of boost heavy duty clamps are not needed, worm drive clamps are sufficient. I'd suggest that as your engine rocks it is putting strain on the pipe and pulling it off, or you don't have a lip on your piping and it is being blown off under boost.

Car is running just over 20psi...

Can anyone post a pic of what pipes are MEANT to be there with e hybrid intercooler?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...