Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am thinking of running my car on this fuel.

I know it will make it run leaner per the same amount on fuel injected due to the oxygen content.

Say I was running a 12.5:1 AFR with ultimate, what would it be running at if I swapped to E10 with no tuning changes? I'm just trying to get a rough idea how much more fuel flow I would require.

After AFR's have been restored. Will it take more or less ignition advance than normal fuel?

  • Like 2
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157439-98-e10-tuning/
Share on other sites

Mate, i read an article in one of the performance mags where they got an R32 GTR and ran a full tank of Optimax and put it on the dyno and it spun up about 250Kw at all 4. They drained the tank and put E10 in but didn't change the amount of fuel and advanced the timing due to the fuel being more stable and got an extra 20Kw at the treads by just changing fuel and timing. If your interested i'll try and find the article.

I'm running the E10 in my R32 GST-T with HKS2540, FMIC, 9 pound boost, full 3 inch with dump pipe and i think there onto something coz my car runs better in general revs out smoother and get better economy, I can't wait till i get enough money together to get my Apexi Power FC tuned (still on the shelf in my room).

Hopefully i can get the tuner to do a before and after dyno read out with different fuels.

Anyway thats my 2c, good luck :domokun:

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157439-98-e10-tuning/#findComment-2923572
Share on other sites

I think I've read the same article. I believe the outcome was it let you run timing similar to race gas but compared to the same amount of petrol it runs a few points leaner so you have to add slightly more to get the AFR's right.

Liter for liter E10 has less energy content over non-ethanol fuel so you will lose some economy .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157439-98-e10-tuning/#findComment-2923653
Share on other sites

Mate, i read an article in one of the performance mags where they got an R32 GTR and ran a full tank of Optimax and put it on the dyno and it spun up about 250Kw at all 4. They drained the tank and put E10 in but didn't change the amount of fuel and advanced the timing due to the fuel being more stable and got an extra 20Kw at the treads by just changing fuel and timing. If your interested i'll try and find the article.

I'm running the E10 in my R32 GST-T with HKS2540, FMIC, 9 pound boost, full 3 inch with dump pipe and i think there onto something coz my car runs better in general revs out smoother and get better economy, I can't wait till i get enough money together to get my Apexi Power FC tuned (still on the shelf in my room).

Hopefully i can get the tuner to do a before and after dyno read out with different fuels.

Anyway thats my 2c, good luck :)

Was that E10 98 or E10 100? It would be sweet if you could find the article.

Frost. Yeah it might chew a little bit more but it costs way less from united servos.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157439-98-e10-tuning/#findComment-2923768
Share on other sites

haven't used 98 E10, use 100 E5 (Shell V Power Racing) all the time. Slight change in A/F ratios (leaner) not enough to stress over. But big advances in ignition timing, much faster boost build (standard turbo at 10 psi at 1,800 rpm) and much better throttle response.

Shell V Power Racing works great on the default Power FC Maps, virtually zero knock.

:( cheers :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157439-98-e10-tuning/#findComment-2925740
Share on other sites

haven't used 98 E10, use 100 E5 (Shell V Power Racing) all the time. Slight change in A/F ratios (leaner) not enough to stress over. But big advances in ignition timing, much faster boost build (standard turbo at 10 psi at 1,800 rpm) and much better throttle response.

Shell V Power Racing works great on the default Power FC Maps, virtually zero knock.

:happy: cheers :laugh:

Nice! So if you were running on the edge of detonation boost wise (23psi :laugh: ), E10 will give you a safety margin over normal fuel? (providing AFR's are the same).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157439-98-e10-tuning/#findComment-2926147
Share on other sites

Nice! So if you were running on the edge of detonation boost wise (23psi :happy: ), E10 will give you a safety margin over normal fuel? (providing AFR's are the same).

Yep.

You might need to add a tad more fuel. Only way is to check it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157439-98-e10-tuning/#findComment-2926247
Share on other sites

So if im tuned for bp98 and i use shell100 i should be ok and still have safe a/f ratio.

DennisRB30, i would assume the extra 2 octane in shell100 will help less knock slightly, how much???

Well yeah. Thats comparing 100 octane to 98 octane so that would be a given. I am talking about 98 octane E10 fuels like boost 98 from United servos.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157439-98-e10-tuning/#findComment-2926989
Share on other sites

Ethanol does have better anti-knock properties than regular petrol.

RON : 129 - MON : 102

As for tuning, ethanol is 35% oxygene but also contains less energy than regular automotive fuel.

Typical automotive fuel contains around 45 MJ/kg where as ethanol contains only 26 MJ/kg.

This would indicate that, like methanol, a richer a/f mixture would be required to obtain maximum power.

However in blends as low as 10% it's probably not such an issue.

Long story short, yes you can run a bit more timing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157439-98-e10-tuning/#findComment-2927100
Share on other sites

  • 6 years later...

Everything I read about "E10" suggests that it's not enough ethanol to get back what you lose consumption/power wise . Most of those people were not talking about 98E10 , mainly the lower octane stuff .

When they say 98E10 I'm curious to know what grade ULP they mix the 10% ethanol with to end up at the 98 oct number . The cynic in me reckons its whatever the cheapest means of making something that engines can burn and be tested to show 98 octane numbers . The best option would be blending straight ethanol with 98 oct PULP but where can you get pure anhydrous ethanol so you can tip 5.5L in yourself ? It's possibly better to work how how much E85 contains 5.5L of ethanol , pour that in a fill up with say BP 98ULP .

A .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157439-98-e10-tuning/#findComment-6890049
Share on other sites

They should mix just fine in the tank. Id put the ethanol in the tank then the ulp ontop.

I ran 100E10 from united. I got better fuel economy amd my knock which was randomly present in the upper rpm was gone. I will be filling up with that fuel when ever I pass the station.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157439-98-e10-tuning/#findComment-6890771
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
    • One year is a bit concerning. Did you try contacting GSP? It says 5 year warranty on the box if I remember correctly. I'm also running their driveshafts on my S2 Stagea.   You could check the part numbers on Amayama for your year. Here's the link for my 1998 which gives the 39100-23U60 part number. Well, that and 39100-23U70. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/stagea/wgnc34/6649-rb25det/trans/391 What does it say for yours?
    • I ordered a GSP Front R/H Axle from here - https://justjap.com/products/gsp-premium-front-driveshaft-r-h-nissan-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-stagea-4wd#description It lasted around a year before one of the boots blew out. I'm lowered, but I have GKTech roll center adjusters. One year seems a little premature. I think I'm going to spend the extra money on an OEM cv axle this time. This website - https://tfaspeed.com/collections/nissan-stagea-wgnc34-x-four-parts/products/nissan-stagea-awc34-260rs-rb26-right-front-axle-drive-assembly Makes it sound like the readily available OEM CV axle will only fit 11.1999 Stagea and up (mine is a 2.1997 S1). The JustJap listing didn't mention any years or anything for the GSP axle. Amayama shows '11.1999' and up as well for that part number. As well as 'plastic boot type'. See attached picture. So I guess my question is, does that axle (39100-23U60) really only fit S2 Stagea? It's the front driver side. If it does, I'd love to buy that instead of rolling the dice on another GSP. I've found that OEM one cheaper here: https://www.partsfornissans.com/oem-parts/nismo-jdm-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-r32-gts4-right-front-axle-3910023u60 and here https://www.nissanparts.cc/oem-parts/nismo-shaft-ft-drive-3910023u60 Just a little confused because the JapSpeed listing for the GSP front driver axle doesn't mention any specific years or anything and it fit my S1 Stagea fine. So will 39100-23U60 fit my S1 Stagea even though technically it says '11.1999' and up? What would have changed? Thanks.  
    • Thanks for the info. The only "Issue" I've had with the shifter is I always found the throw between 4th and 6th gear too close. I'm always worried to shift into 4th accidently and sending my motor to the moon. Adam LZ recently came out with a video and stated Serialnine revised their shifters to correct this and will change all the revised parts for 150$. Strangely enough, I contacted Serialnine right after and they denied it and said it's bullshit. I found that strange as he's a distributer. I'll keep this forum post updated on that saga.
    • Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
×
×
  • Create New...