Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey, hows it going.. ok now i have an r33 gts and am having a few problems with my engine..

1st - Ok when i turn the ignition over and the engine starts, a loud clacking, clicking noise occurs for about 2 seconds.. Now am not sure where it was coming from... but i think it might be the starter motor?? does this sound right??

2nd - When my car is idling it sounds like its missing and really slugish.. Now i cleaned me engine bay not long ago and may think that water has got into somewhere it hasn't.. Now wat should i check or replace to stop this from happening?? coils, plugs??

3rd - on my dash the open door light is always on even though every door is shut.. wat should i check ??

thanks, any input would be great..

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157476-engine-problems/
Share on other sites

Hey, hows it going.. ok now i have an r33 gts and am having a few problems with my engine..

1st - Ok when i turn the ignition over and the engine starts, a loud clacking, clicking noise occurs for about 2 seconds.. Now am not sure where it was coming from... but i think it might be the starter motor?? does this sound right??

A couple people have complained about this and a one suggestion that was put out there was that your timing belt may be slipping when the car starts... Might have to look into replacing it.

2nd - When my car is idling it sounds like its missing and really slugish.. Now i cleaned me engine bay not long ago and may think that water has got into somewhere it hasn't.. Now wat should i check or replace to stop this from happening?? coils, plugs??

Is that when the problem started? If not then it can be heaps of things

3rd - on my dash the open door light is always on even though every door is shut.. wat should i check ??

your fuses is all i can suggest, short of that your wiring maybe be screweed. If you know anything about wiring, see if you can check all the connections are solid.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157476-engine-problems/#findComment-2927892
Share on other sites

3rd - on my dash the open door light is always on even though every door is shut.. wat should i check ??

cheers

Had the same issue, it was basically, the hatch where the lock clicks into was loose and moving around because the bolts holding it in weren't secure, that's located on the wall of your door, looks like a nose ring sort of thing with black padding around it to hold the lock in. If that's worn or faded the lock might not be engaging properly, hence the light is coming on. Also you'll notice that when you close the door, the reason the light comes on and dissapears in the normal case is because it forces a button down, might be an idea to check if that's working properly too by pressing it down manually and looking at your dash. This stuff is all relatively close to each other on the door arm of your car's body ( open your door and look to the left im talking about the part that runs up from where you can rest your feet on the side of your car)

If it's a matter of the black padded material on the metal ring/arch that hold the door locked in place being faded or worn, just wrap some black electric tape around it until it fits snug again or find a replacement for it..

If that isn't the case maybe it's something electrical.

And Don't directly use water on your engine bay.. E.g dont spray it with a hose lol.. hope you didn't. Just a damp cloth or preferably de-greaser or something.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157476-engine-problems/#findComment-2931567
Share on other sites

you can degrease and then spray off. do it when the motors hot and dont bother startting it for a while. the hot motor will dry the water out quicker. ur engine can get wet, otherwise it would be sealed from the outside world, it rains u know.

its just that it may cause some problems with the electrics. eg. it may bridge a contact in one of the loom connectors etc. or more commonly, provide an easier ground for the spark plugs/coils than firing across the gap.

dont spray the hose straight onto sparkies or coils or dizzys (lol old school) more than you have to and let it all dry a bit before attempting to statrt a wet motor

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157476-engine-problems/#findComment-2932476
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You've just discovered a really good reason to tell yourself, yes, I do need to buy an aftermarket ECU. Put the MAF in the bin. Slap in the new ECU and have a think about what turbo sounds you prefer.  Do you want a 90's style BOV wooosh? Do you want a hektik tsututututu?  Mate, can't go wrong. Just gotta get that ECU and the world is your oyster. 
    • Hi. Iam just curisou about this topic. I saw this video. It is about Greddy Type FV2. I know that BoVs are about that sound but how and when to use it? I read some topic here and from what i have understand on stock RB with MAF there will be some "problems" if you use this BoV? It vents the air in to the atmosphere and the MAF on stock car needs this air back in to the intake and not out? Or is it wrong? If so...i saw you can put some adaptor to circule air back...but does that not "loose" that sound? I saw another BoV from Turbosmart and it has two "exhaust" like ports? One is for the stock tubing for letting air back and one is for "sound" and let the air in the atmosphere? Can someone please explain? This is the Greddy one:  And this is the Turbosmart.     THANK YOU!! EDIT: So i read about this topic some more and i if i understand that correctly: That Greddy can function either like BoV or 100% Bypass valve? And that Turbosmart is what they called hybrid so you can adjust what and how many air can be vented out or back in? Is this right? THX!
    • That dirty voltage drop is the culprit I suspect 
    • i cant get them all in 1 screenshot unfortunately as i just dont know how to move things around tbh, but they are all from the same log and the line crosses at the same point for all of them
    • It's about time I start work on my sun tan. So I knocked up a few parts that will all combine together to become my new power steering reservoir. Now just to produce an abundance of UV and IR rays while melting a heap of bits of alu to become one... Well, that's after I put one more hole in it for the return line to plumb to. It likely won't be this weekend, as Sunday I'm meant to be in doing some last minute stuff to the AMG race car, and the weekend after will be filled with non my Skyline stuff, followed by Bathurst 6 hour. So I don't expect to get to melt metal for at least 3 weeks.   I also managed to stuff up and start cutting the hole for the res to pump pipe on the wrong side of the line... It means instead of the lines being nice and tight against the inner guard, they'll be out off the guard.    The size of it means I should end up with about 1.8L of power steering fluid, and still have space for another half a litre before it reaches the overflow/breather. This is wayyyyyyy more capacity than factory, which should help keep Powersteer oil temps lower, and the design hopefully allows it to prevent any aerated oil being able to makes its way down to the bottom as it'll have a couple of baffles and some hopeful trickery to force air bubbles away from the bottom.
×
×
  • Create New...