Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey, hows it going.. ok now i have an r33 gts and am having a few problems with my engine..

1st - Ok when i turn the ignition over and the engine starts, a loud clacking, clicking noise occurs for about 2 seconds.. Now am not sure where it was coming from... but i think it might be the starter motor?? does this sound right??

2nd - When my car is idling it sounds like its missing and really slugish.. Now i cleaned me engine bay not long ago and may think that water has got into somewhere it hasn't.. Now wat should i check or replace to stop this from happening?? coils, plugs??

3rd - on my dash the open door light is always on even though every door is shut.. wat should i check ??

thanks, any input would be great..

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157476-engine-problems/
Share on other sites

Hey, hows it going.. ok now i have an r33 gts and am having a few problems with my engine..

1st - Ok when i turn the ignition over and the engine starts, a loud clacking, clicking noise occurs for about 2 seconds.. Now am not sure where it was coming from... but i think it might be the starter motor?? does this sound right??

A couple people have complained about this and a one suggestion that was put out there was that your timing belt may be slipping when the car starts... Might have to look into replacing it.

2nd - When my car is idling it sounds like its missing and really slugish.. Now i cleaned me engine bay not long ago and may think that water has got into somewhere it hasn't.. Now wat should i check or replace to stop this from happening?? coils, plugs??

Is that when the problem started? If not then it can be heaps of things

3rd - on my dash the open door light is always on even though every door is shut.. wat should i check ??

your fuses is all i can suggest, short of that your wiring maybe be screweed. If you know anything about wiring, see if you can check all the connections are solid.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157476-engine-problems/#findComment-2927892
Share on other sites

3rd - on my dash the open door light is always on even though every door is shut.. wat should i check ??

cheers

Had the same issue, it was basically, the hatch where the lock clicks into was loose and moving around because the bolts holding it in weren't secure, that's located on the wall of your door, looks like a nose ring sort of thing with black padding around it to hold the lock in. If that's worn or faded the lock might not be engaging properly, hence the light is coming on. Also you'll notice that when you close the door, the reason the light comes on and dissapears in the normal case is because it forces a button down, might be an idea to check if that's working properly too by pressing it down manually and looking at your dash. This stuff is all relatively close to each other on the door arm of your car's body ( open your door and look to the left im talking about the part that runs up from where you can rest your feet on the side of your car)

If it's a matter of the black padded material on the metal ring/arch that hold the door locked in place being faded or worn, just wrap some black electric tape around it until it fits snug again or find a replacement for it..

If that isn't the case maybe it's something electrical.

And Don't directly use water on your engine bay.. E.g dont spray it with a hose lol.. hope you didn't. Just a damp cloth or preferably de-greaser or something.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157476-engine-problems/#findComment-2931567
Share on other sites

you can degrease and then spray off. do it when the motors hot and dont bother startting it for a while. the hot motor will dry the water out quicker. ur engine can get wet, otherwise it would be sealed from the outside world, it rains u know.

its just that it may cause some problems with the electrics. eg. it may bridge a contact in one of the loom connectors etc. or more commonly, provide an easier ground for the spark plugs/coils than firing across the gap.

dont spray the hose straight onto sparkies or coils or dizzys (lol old school) more than you have to and let it all dry a bit before attempting to statrt a wet motor

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157476-engine-problems/#findComment-2932476
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
×
×
  • Create New...