Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 5 months later...

hey guys the names scott, just clear something up i was reading this forum and saw this question and i just had to be a member to help you out. Now at the moment i own a n/a subaru, thats right start laughing and telling me to get off this forum but im getting a skyline soon so thats why im joining. ok now to the question, on subaru's there is an air box that connects straight to the throttle and in the box the filter sits, now if i remove it and put a pod in ill lose power and it will feel like crap the reason is that the box is there to hold air while stationary so when you take off it dosnt have to wait for air to travel all the way up. so what most n/a subaru guys do is leave it and get a pipe to run to a good part of the car to get cold air and leave the panel filter in or get a k and n and it works really well.now im not 100% sure if thats what its like with a skyline but i hope it might help anyway.

well on the subaru you leave the main box and from that u run a pipe to where ever u like. the pipe has nothing on it thats why you keep the box where the panel filter sits. illl attach a pic of a setup so you can see what it looks like. just to clarify there is nothing at the end of the pipe you dont need anything cause you still have the panel filter in the box.post-41669-1188173315_thumb.jpg

everyone that has done this says you can feel the difference and it works really well so hopefully you can do the same in a skyline.

just to quickly add about the pic the box where the filter sits is in the top right of the pic u can only just see a bit of it. any more questions about it just ask ill do my best. im not an expert on these i go by from what i have read and people i have spoke to that have this system i got most of my info from mrt performance so i cant take all the credit.

now if i remove it and put a pod in ill lose power and it will feel like crap the reason is that the box is there to hold air while stationary so when you take off it dosnt have to wait for air to travel all the way up.

the reason you will lose power is cause you are sucking hot air. now i'm not sure about how much you know about air, but as you are accelerating there is constantly air flowing into the intake pipe, so the moment you shut the throttle, the intake pipe will have enough air already in it for when you stand on the gas again.

you would be better having that bit of pipe come straight from the throttle body and go down into the inner gaurd with the pod on the end of it. it will have better flow properties, and a pod filter generally flows more air than a panel filter.

subaru's are just different, i thought maybe it might be the same kind of induction set up but the black box on the subaru is called the torque box so thats pretty self explanatory on what it does and thats why we keep it. i should probably have a look at a skyline intake sometime, sorry about the post i just thought it might be similar. do the skylines have other air restrictors on it? because the subaru has heaps and all used to stop more air and make it quieter, its stupid but i guess some people want quiet compared to performance.

sounds like a regular cold air feed to me.

because the subaru has heaps and all used to stop more air and make it quieter, its stupid but i guess some people want quiet compared to performance.

it's called restrictions and emissions

yeah the subarus are slightly different, i had a legacy wagon for a year

I think the thing Scotty is thinking of is a resonator in the intake pipe which only subies have, I ended up buying a replacement style pipe for mine, which was a reducer type thing with a pipe off the side, made it much louder.

As for the POD problem, I'm going with the guy above:

Could be the oil, i know some of the cheaper pods use nasty fish smelling oil which does clog the afms, remove your pod, check your AFM, they usually have a self cleaning device, but the pod oil someones sticks and burns on it, if the wire and metal is not clean, get some brake/carb cleaner and spray it till it's shiny again, give it a few seconds to dry out, then put it back on.

The K&N and Apexi filters are better, because they use nicer oil, but if you get the cheap ones some of the time you'll be fine, some of the time you'll have problems.

oh scotty, here is a replacement for the "torque" box you referred to before:

RAC-SUB-IN-S450-338.jpg

Although if you put one of these on, you could get defected :glare: made my intake louder than my 3" exhaust, damn the boxer grumble was sexy though

the magna has 2 boxes on the intake pipe. they are there for noise and help with response for about the first .01 of a second when you open the throttle. they have a negative effect on flow at high rpm though.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So recently at the track had experienced a loss of throttle after a period of WOT after installing the emtron ecu, recently did some logging to troubleshoot the issue and found the ECU was cutting due to a low oil pressure issue. Going over the log can see that while accelerating at 4k rpm will see 100 PSI of pressure and holding steady at that level until getting off the throttle which then after can see as low as 25 PSI at 3-4k rpm and will recover back to a normal level after that.   Wondering if anyone has an idea what could be the cause as it just feels abit strange and i dont feel like it could be a sensor issues just due to it clearly sitting at a good pressure until off throttle, in the attached can see a 3rd and 4th gear pull but can even perform great through 3 and 4 gears of WOT but still once off throttle and getting back on it will see pressure drop.
    • There are a few different ways of doing it. I'm currently running two 1000cc pre-TB nozzles and PWM the pump for control. I'll be moving over to a constant pressure system and direct port. I'll run the pump off a regular relay, have it cycle on roughly 5psi before I start injecting to build pressure and then PWM a WMI solenoid (It's basically an injector that can take a lot of pressure and not corrode with water and meth.) The solenoid feeds the 6 direct port ~200cc nozzles. I'll also keep one ~250cc pre-TB nozzle to help keep IAT's in check.  Safety will be a little different as well. I used to use a pressure switch but will be moving over to a pressure sensor between my solenoid and nozzles. I'll trigger my solenoid and if I don't see specific pressure within a specific timeframe (e.g 100psi within a second, 175psi within 2 seconds), I kill it and revert back to non WMI maps the same way I did it before with 4D in Haltech. I was just figuring out the timers in my ecu last night. They made that a little more complicated than I would have liked... I wish Haltech offered a larger set of logic/math functions like other ecu's do. I can't do very much with just AND's and OR's.  I've been asked to do fuel/ignition mapping on a medium bore engine at work in May (192L V16). Being the only programmer in my region and having went and opened my mouth about knowing the ins and outs of fuel/ignition mapping, I have now been deemed an expert. Fun fun. The entirety of the logic and algorithms are programmed in C on a PLC. As I spend more time figuring it all out, I like what I see and eventually I may consider doing the same as a pet project to replace my ecu.   
    • This would be interesting, would you feed it via a 2nd row of injectors? Or just usual WMI nozzles?
    • Cut sump up and extend. Win win 😂 
    • All, What's the recommended torque for the 1/2 head studs for RB30 twin cam conversion with RB26 head?  
×
×
  • Create New...