Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok, lets see if I can explain this cleary :) I have just recently upgraded my fuel system again, and since putting in the powerfc injector settings the car wont start. ( R32 GTR RB26 )

The car was running nismo 600cc injectors and now I am running the Sard 800cc twin sprays.

Using the properties for the injectors:

Stock Injectors are 444cc/0.77msec latency

Old Injectors are: 600cc/0.81msec latency

New Injectors are: 800cc/1.10msec latency

The oringinal settings for the 600cc's on the powerfc were:

Injector- 74% (444/600) Latency- +0.04 (0.81-0.77)

that obviosly ran fine....

soooo, first try I put in the settings for the new injectors

Injector- 55% (444/800) and Lantency- +0.33 (1.10-0.77)

...........doesn't start :P

so I thought.... well its tuned for the 600s, so maybe I'll do the injectors corrections for them?

Injector- 75% (600/800) and Latency- +0.29 (1.10-0.81)

...........doesn't start :)

so now I've checked fuel pressure in the rail and going by the manual of 42psi, its all there, holds pressure on purge and cranking...

am I doing the injector corrections right??? The battery is now being recharged from been drained flat from cranking and purging pumps, so I'm trying to find if I'm missing something. :kiss:

Edited by CameronBNR32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157522-powerfc-new-injector-settings/
Share on other sites

anything odd in SENSOR SW CHECK ?

engine check light come on ?

does the engine start and then stall or wont start?

I did check all the sensors and they were all registering

The engine will sometimes 'puff' but wont get anywhere near idling/starting so all the dash lights are still on.

At the moment I'm pulling out the plugs to see if they are wet and see if any fuel is actually getting in there.

logic says to me it should be;

Old Injectors are: 444cc/0.77msec latency

New Injectors are: 800cc/1.10msec latency

and then do it based on that, forget that you have 600cs previously

I pulled the plugs out, the injectors were damp, but not as wet as I would expect them to be..

Does anyone know the exact Latency for the Sard 800cc Twin Sprays? I only found one resource that said 1.10msec... couldnt find much info at all. :(

The oringinal settings for the 600cc's on the powerfc were:

Injector- 74% (444/600) Latency- +0.4 (0.81-0.77)

don't u mean .81-.77=.04 .............maybe double check your input for the 800's

It was 0.04 in the powerfc, just a typo by me :laugh:

thanks

Outta interest, do you guys change your values and the tune is still perfect with the bigger injectors...so WOT whenever or do you take it easy and just use it as a bandaid type fix....ie enough to get you to a tuner to get it sorted properly?

When you change injector sizing, for what ever reason, you will need to have the map touched up to suit as the change in size can affect the fuel delivery slightly at certain loads and RPM. The touch up is a quick affair that would only take an hour at the most. BUT, if you're not fussy, you can get away with no changes whatsoever. Its up to you.

In other areas such as startup fuel and accel pump fuel, these settings are in injector ms times and ARE NOT CHANGED WHEN YOU RESCALE THE INJECTORS !!!!.

That lovely puff of black smoke, even on light throttle changes is the accel pump fuel and with larger injectors like 700CC can be a cloud of black smoke at the lights. The PFC settings for accel pump fuel are around 4.5 to 5ms standard and with larger injectors I have reduced these times to about 1.2 to 1.5ms with no black smoke and perfect throttle response (actually got better the more I reduced it) . Fuel usage also reduced dramatically.

Hope this helps,

Mike

The oringinal settings for the 600cc's on the powerfc were:

Injector- 74% (444/600) Latency- +0.4 (0.81-0.77)

don't u mean .81-.77=.04 .............maybe double check your input for the 800's

I set my PFC to these settings after installing 600cc injectors and had no luck getting my car to idle at all. Had to take it in for a retune in the end :)

  • 1 month later...

Cameron,

A mate recently dropped a set of Sard 800cc twinsprays in to his setup.

He runs the rb20det pfc on his rb30det and using the technically correct values the thing just would not run.

I played with the values (what they are; I can't remember) until it ran and got the o2 sensor swinging.

The only thing I could think of is the twinsprays some how throw everything out, we didn't check fuel pressure all though once on the dyno all appeared to be good. Perfect cold/warm starts, no drivability issues, excellent fuel economy and expected duty cycle for the power being made.

To this day it still won't run with the technically correct injector size and lag trim.

He also runs a Z32 afm.

I've seen the rb20t pfc do funky things previously when running a non-std afm.

Your problem isn't related but for others in the future. :O

I've just done a basic road tune. injector lag is set to +32, and correction 55%. AFM correction however has been changed so at idle is 50% which quickly changes to 115% after 1.5v on the AFM's.....very strange. I also changed the correction values for voltage standard injectors are .772 @ 14v so I calculated the % change at each voltage and input the values for 1.10msec injectors. I've also halved the accel enrichment which seems to run well. Car runs 1.8bar nicely with very stable AFR and very low knock.....just have to get some more spark...I think my plugs are already at .6mm ...damn it, lol

Quote

"SARD 800cc twin hole

Injector- 55% (444/800) and Lantency- +0.33 (1.10-0.77)"

Are these the correct settings, I have just installed some.

going by the PFC FAQ .77-1.10 = minus .33 ?????

PFC FAQ is wrong,

its definately

New lag time - old lag time. so +.33 for my 800cc 1.10msec

  • 3 weeks later...

Sorry BOOSTD, I havn't been checking back with this thread as I thought it had died.

The injector lag and size value caculation I worked off was in my powerfc user manual.

The settings I have in my car at the moment are:

Injector- 55% (444/800)

Lantency- +0.33 (1.10-0.77

it starts and runs, but runs rich (I'm not sure the reason to running rich is the setting on the new fuel regulator).

Cubes- RB20 powerfc on a RB30? wouldn't that be the problem :D

I've got to get my tuned asap, hasnt moved since the thread has been made! I need to stop modifing the dam thing!

Edited by CameronBNR32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A lot of what you said there are fair observations and part of why I made that list, to make some of these things (like no advantage between the GSeries and GSeries II at PR2.4 in a lot of cases) however I'm not fully convinced by other comments.  One thing to bare in mind is that compressor flow maps are talking about MASS flow, in terms of the compressor side you shouldn't end up running more or less airflow vs another compressor map for the same advertised flow if all external environmental conditions are equivalent if the compressor efficiency is lower as that advertised mass flow takes that into consideration.   Once the intercooler becomes involved the in-plenum air temperature shouldn't be that different, either... the main thing that is likely to affect the end power is the final exhaust manifold pressure - which *WILL* go up when you run out of compressor efficiency when you run off the map earlier on the original G-Series versus G-Series II as you need to keep the gate shut to achieve similar airflow.    Also, how do you figure response based off surge line?  I've seen people claim that as an absolute fact before but am pretty sure I've seen compressors with worse surge lines actually "stand up" faster (and ironically be more likely to surge), I'm not super convinced - it's really a thing we won't easily be able to determine until people start using them.     There are some things on the maps that actually make me wonder if there is a chance that they may respond no worse... if not BETTER?!  which brings me to your next point... Why G2 have lower max rpm?  Really good question and I've been wondering about this too.  The maximum speed *AND* the compressor maps both look like what I'd normally expect if Garrett had extended the exducers out, but they claim the same inducer and exducer size for the whole range.   If you compare the speed lines between any G and G2 version the G2 speed lines support higher flow for the same compressor speed, kinda giving a pretty clear "better at pumping more air for the same speed" impression. Presumably the exducer includes any extended tip design instead of just the backplate, but nonetheless I'd love to see good pics/measurements of the G2 compressors as everything kinda points to something different about the exducer - specifically that it must be further out from the centerline, which means a lower rpm for the same max tip speed and often also results in higher pressure ratio efficiency, narrower maps, and often actually can result in better spool vs a smaller exducer for the same inducer size... no doubt partly due to the above phenomenon of needing less turbine speed to achieve the same airflow when using a smaller trim. Not sure if this is just camera angle or what, but this kinda looks interesting on the G35 990 compressor tips: Very interested to see what happens when people start testing these, and if we start getting more details about what's different.
    • I know right. It baffled me. There's no way when the engine is off, key is in ignition, (coils are dissconnected aswell), also my sound system was dissconnected (I don't run any audio capacitors), battery reads 12.2v and with the 10amp fuse blown I was measuring 24 to 30v. The reading would move a bit from 30v to 24v which was weird. I took a pic of the multi meter reading 🤣: (This is a brand new single channel digital oscilloscope that also has a multi meter mode).   Before when the fuse was blown, I had one lead on the 12v supply (green/white wires) of that brown relay and the other lead on the negative battery terminal. When I turned the key on ignition (engine off), it would read 30v. Then when I removed that relay from it's plug and tried putting ignition on again, it would read 12v, but I think it's because it can't turn on the ecu now that I removed it. I asked Chatgpt and this is what it had to say:   Not sure if those theories would be possible but, any auto sparkies here? welcome to confirm. 🤷‍♂️  No idea, but if it happens again, atleast I know what type of issue it is, unlike last few months where I didn't know what was causing all my issues and I was just taking stabs in the dark to figure out what type of problem it was. If it does happen again I'm going to investigate futher and trace back the source even more and inspect more circuits. I drove it to work this morning and the car drove and boosted fine. Yeah I was thinking the same, so I've imported my back up saved map (which is the map that I saved when it got done tuning) back onto my haltech with the base fuel pressure set to 43.5psi.
    • Yeh nice, if your in melbourne could you recommend any exhaust shops in the east that do a good job?
    • Sorry yes, this is what im after Also, that jpjdm site appears to be offline
×
×
  • Create New...