Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I will be upgrading my turbo shortly and would like some info on removing the stock one.

a) Do i need a hoist?

b) Can i get at everything under the car?

c) Do i need to remove pod,AFM,intake hose to turbo?

d) What lines to the turbo need removing?

e) Its going to matched with a VG30 rear housing do i need to keep all the fittings?

f) How long will it take roughly?

g) Will any oil or water leak out of the engine once the turbo is removed?

h) Is putting the upgraded one in just a reverse procedure or do i need to modify (add new lines)?

P.S If anyone wants to save me the grief.PM me and we can work something out.

CHEERS

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157667-removing-stock-r33-turbo/
Share on other sites

Hi all,

I will be upgrading my turbo shortly and would like some info on removing the stock one.

a) Do i need a hoist?

b) Can i get at everything under the car?

c) Do i need to remove pod,AFM,intake hose to turbo?

d) What lines to the turbo need removing?

e) Its going to matched with a VG30 rear housing do i need to keep all the fittings?

f) How long will it take roughly?

g) Will any oil or water leak out of the engine once the turbo is removed?

h) Is putting the upgraded one in just a reverse procedure or do i need to modify (add new lines)?

P.S If anyone wants to save me the grief.PM me and we can work something out.

CHEERS

1: u dont need a hoist 2: u can get everything from uinder the car 3: yes 4: 2 water lines and oil lines (feed and drain) 5: pretty sure u can with the hiflow 6: about 5 hours 7: water will piss out lol 8 : if u hiflow probably not but its good to drill the oil feed line with a 5 mill drill bit (remember hiflow only)

good luck mate lemme know how u go

Edited by R33GOD

a) Do i need a hoist? NO

b) Can i get at everything under the car? YES

c) Do i need to remove pod,AFM,intake hose to turbo? YES

d) What lines to the turbo need removing? (Water lines in and out on each side of turbo, Oil feed and oil drain)

e) Its going to matched with a VG30 rear housing do i need to keep all the fittings? (Yes keep all fittings and get new gaskets from nissan)

f) How long will it take roughly? (A LONG TIME, it took me ages because i had to keep buying tools/gaskets/bolts, BE careful when undoing tight bolts spray with WD40 first and wait then attempt so you don't snap anything, a breaker bar is also handy)

g) Will any oil or water leak out of the engine once the turbo is removed? (Best to drain all the coolant out first as when you disconnect the water lines coolant goes everywhere i was swimming in it lol, same with engine oil)

h) Is putting the upgraded one in just a reverse procedure or do i need to modify (add new lines)? (Depends on which highflow you get, GCG straight on SLIDE needs mods to lines)

This site will be useful for you (still a Rb25det)

http://www.project32.net/tutorials.php

http://www.livesockets.com/quoc/rb/10_mani...moval/index.htm (was working when i did mine but not now ) :( maybe check through livesockets.com

a) Do i need a hoist? NO

b) Can i get at everything under the car? YES

c) Do i need to remove pod,AFM,intake hose to turbo? YES

d) What lines to the turbo need removing? (Water lines in and out on each side of turbo, Oil feed and oil drain)

e) Its going to matched with a VG30 rear housing do i need to keep all the fittings? (Yes keep all fittings and get new gaskets from nissan)

f) How long will it take roughly? (A LONG TIME, it took me ages because i had to keep buying tools/gaskets/bolts, BE careful when undoing tight bolts spray with WD40 first and wait then attempt so you don't snap anything, a breaker bar is also handy)

g) Will any oil or water leak out of the engine once the turbo is removed? (Best to drain all the coolant out first as when you disconnect the water lines coolant goes everywhere i was swimming in it lol, same with engine oil)

h) Is putting the upgraded one in just a reverse procedure or do i need to modify (add new lines)? (Depends on which highflow you get, GCG straight on SLIDE needs mods to lines)

This site will be useful for you (still a Rb25det)

http://www.project32.net/tutorials.php

http://www.livesockets.com/quoc/rb/10_mani...moval/index.htm (was working when i did mine but not now ) :laugh: maybe check through livesockets.com

loool it happened to me when i took the water lines off... i got soaked but it was soo funny :(

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...157088&st=0

this is a thread on some poor nutter tring to do similar on a GTR. they are much harder. but take a leaf out of his book!

be prepared for the worst! the GTS-t turbo is not that bad to work on. I have a small plastic tool box full of old turbo bolts and brakets and fittings. They come in very handy right when you think you don't need them. my advise is to keep every last bit of it. U may not like the new set up, and want to return it to where u started. u may loose something or worse, break it! keep the extra stuff!

I took all the intake hoses and stuff out of the way, the cross over pipe and BOV. rolled the car out of the shed and drained the coolant from the radiator (there is an screw in the bottom). pushed the car back inside and and removed the dump pipe. unbolted turbo and carefully pulled the turbo off. make sure u don't lose the brass washers off the banjo bolts on the turbo. swap the parts u want to swap, and do the hole process backwards..

Before unbolting the turbine housing, use a yellow paint marker and dot the housing position. it will help u when u are putting it all back together.

ohh, be very careful when tightening up the turbine housing to cartridge. make sure that the wheels can turn freely. i've seen guys do these up cock eyed, and the turbo doesn't spin!

any other thoughts :(

I'll add, you need a 24mm spanner and socket for the water lines.

Oil banjos is 17mm spanner/socket.

Drain absolutely as muhc of the water as you can. I got 4.5L out of the radiator, and another 5L came out of the turbo water line.

Try and undo the bolt slowly, and catch most of the water, otherwise you'll be lying in a pool of coolant. While it does taste nice, I don't advice drinking it.

Jesus tap dancing christ!

This is going to be a BIG involved task.

I dont think i will be able to have my car off the road for that amout of time.

I work 5 12hr shifts and need the car on the road.I guess i have to do some serious organising to limit the time spent.

Not to mention the turbo place needing the turbo for a day or 3.

Thank you all for your excellent advise.

honstly, if it's your only car, I wouldn't do it myself. The thing is, with these performance cars, if you like to mod them, it's guaranteed that you'll need to hae it off the road.

e.g. you might break bolts, or break something, and it'll take you time to go buy stuff etc.

My car's been off the road for 6 weeks waiting for different stuff.

I wouldn't advise you to do it all in a day either. I'd spend one day taking it out then the next putting it back in.

Also, how mechanically able are you? Do you get pissed off easily? do you have the right tools?

If you want, i can tell you a plcae that'll do it for about $350 including coolant and oil

honstly, if it's your only car, I wouldn't do it myself. The thing is, with these performance cars, if you like to mod them, it's guaranteed that you'll need to hae it off the road.

e.g. you might break bolts, or break something, and it'll take you time to go buy stuff etc.

My car's been off the road for 6 weeks waiting for different stuff.

I wouldn't advise you to do it all in a day either. I'd spend one day taking it out then the next putting it back in.

Also, how mechanically able are you? Do you get pissed off easily? do you have the right tools?

If you want, i can tell you a plcae that'll do it for about $350 including coolant and oil

Im listening.

Jesus tap dancing christ!

This is going to be a BIG involved task.

I dont think i will be able to have my car off the road for that amout of time.

I work 5 12hr shifts and need the car on the road.I guess i have to do some serious organising to limit the time spent.

Not to mention the turbo place needing the turbo for a day or 3.

Thank you all for your excellent advise.

your very welcome mate

Jesus tap dancing christ!

This is going to be a BIG involved task.

I dont think i will be able to have my car off the road for that amout of time.

I work 5 12hr shifts and need the car on the road.I guess i have to do some serious organising to limit the time spent.

Not to mention the turbo place needing the turbo for a day or 3.

Thank you all for your excellent advise.

hey mate what plans do u have for your 33?

I am about to do thesame with my car, dam gaskets and studs.

Overall if you ahve two people, the job is EASY. just takes time and patiance. The Nissan manual has a good DIY on how everything has to be performent and in what order.

I can send a coppy of relavant pages, just PM me.

Overall cost i sabout $200 for all the gasktes and so forth allong with some new studs. Possible extra for coolant.

If you start at 8 in the morning, you should have it done by the afternnon no probs.

UNLESS, you break some studs, and can't get them out, need some helicoils, or have a warped manifold.

I comed propered and have broght everyhting possible to ensure i can do it in one day, as i too need my car on the road ASAP.

if you're going for 280 rwkw, a highflow won't do it. in which case, it'll need to be something else.

If it's a kit, you're alright. if it's not a kit, you'll need fab work, so you can't do it yoursledf

ive seen these VG highflows pull 280rwkw at 19psi.Car had tomei cams and all supporting mods.

ive seen these VG highflows pull 280rwkw at 19psi.Car had tomei cams and all supporting mods.

280 rwk is pushing it for reliability on a hiflow id say 260 is possible with reliability.. im chasing a comfy 240 on a lower psi

Edited by R33GOD

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The old manifold was quite under the GTR strut brace.  The new manifold is quite [unknown] the GTR strut brace. The GTR strut brace was needed to clear the bonnet vents. The Old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, but not the bonnet vents. The old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, and the new bonnet without vents. But I am hoping the GTR strut brace clears the new manifold :p
    • On the bright side, at least you knew that it happened and remedied before anything happened. A friend of mine just took his Fiat 124 to a shop for an oil change and they didn't tighten the oil filter housing properly. 4.5 quarts spewed out and even after refilling + tightening the cap the engine has a tick now.
    • So, more pain. The FAST manifold is a little larger than the stocker. This is problematic because there really wasn't much clearance to begin with, so going from 'barely enough' well into 'no' is sad based on the external dimensions of the thing, even though where it bolts to the head is the same. Result is the fuel rails sit a good 25mm higher, and this is a bit of an issue with the wiring that runs behind the motor, and the fuel lines, and everything else. When pushing the manifold on, it required a huge amount of force to crush wiring looms to fit it, sensors like the MAP sensor are about 1mm from the firewall, and the FPR just has to bend ABS lines to be forced into place. After some brainstorming and some sad drinking, the loom for some reason ran from the grommet behind the ABS sensor, then to the driver side head, then back to the passenger side head. So all of this was pulled back and stripped, a few wires cut and rejoined, so that the 'branch' was now on the passenger side's head as below: Before you basically couldn't see anything behind the driver head. This is much improved! The MAP sensor is now pointing up (instead of at the firewall) Brackets have been made up for the rail. The rails are for a LS1, the manifold is designed around a LS2 as it's base. Which of course has slightly different bracketry and water pump clearance, hence the mods people need to do. Should be hopefully mounted tonight. I spent money on a new FPR that is slightly more compact than my Turbosmart FPR1200. The gauge has also been moved to the rail. There's also apparently an ORB to AN Union instead of the adapter, because the ~25mm of the current adapter is going to make the difference. Provided this all goes together and arrives today, it'll be the totally not stressful attempt to start it.
    • This seems like a pointless exercise. There is no E30 availability. Ongoing availability of E85 should not be assumed. Flex-fuel is the only sensible approach, so you can use E85 when and where you can get it, 98 when that's al you can get, and anything in between as you fill it up and drain it down. And if that means replacing the pumps, fitting a flex capable sensor/ECU/whatever has to be done to these Renault shitboxen, then.....so be it?
×
×
  • Create New...