Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanks for the info Steve, there's some good stuff there.

I got the error codes out of the ECU, and it got an error 13, which is apparently a Coolant Temp Sensor error. Does anyone know if this is referring to the sensor near the block, just near the pressure reg, or the one on the radiator? i suspect the one near the block is for the ECU, and the one on the radiator just runs the gauge, does that sound right?

And should this error stop the ECU from starting the engine, or is it something it should be able to ignore? (i'm going to fix the sensor anyway)

Another thought i had is that maybe i need to connect the neutral switch from the (manual) gearbox up, which i haven't done yet. would this be affecting it as well?

Thanks again for any help guys,

Adam.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15777-rb20det-conversion-wont-start/
Share on other sites

Thge ECUtemp sender and the gauge temp sender are next to each other on the pipe returning to the top radiator. The ECU sender has a yellow plug. The sender in the radiator is a switch for the A/C thermatic fan.

The fact that the ECU sender has a fault shouldn't stop the engine from starting.

What you have done (pull a coil/plug) is the simplest way to test for spark. Its likely the igniter module (on the top of the engine at the back) is faulty. See if you can get hold of another one.

see if you can clear the error (ECU reset). Often, something silly like disconnect the connector on the sender while engine running will trigger the fault code.

Clear the code, then if it reoccurs, its likely the sender is faulty.

I have a sneaking suspicion i may have killed some of the wiring in that area, damn nissan engineers. There are two wires in the ecu loom that are identically marked (black, red trace, silver spot) and the same gauge, sitting right next to each other. One of them is the IGN +12v line for the ecu, the other is some random ground line. So of course first time round, i spliced 12v into the wrong one didn't i?, turned the igntion on to see if i had 12v at the ecu connector (thankfully without the ecu plugged in, and all i got was a very warm, slightly melted ground line : ( I was hoping that it might have just melted the insulation off the wire, and that the core and surrounding wires were ok, but it seems now that i've killed the sender wire. The sender itself seems ok, reads 2.2k, which is better than open or closed i guess. hopefully it's just the wire, and hopefully just that one. But it does mean i have to pull the loom out from the intake manifold, unwrap the whole thing, check the wires and re wrap it all.

Oh well, i guess it might be a good chance to pull the injectors out and see if they're working.

well after a weekend spent troubleshooting the various components, unwrapping the entire loom, replacing the wire i melted, putting the loom back together, removing the fuel rail (without removing the manifold!) testing the injectors, unblocking 2 of them, cleaning up all the ground points, and lots of head scratching, i finally got the thing going.

I hadn't killed anything, which was a relief, but in the end it turned out that i didn't have 12v to the coils (which i should have checked ages ago of course...) because the coils get there 12v feed from a different point to the rest of the loom. I piece of wire, and 1 spade terminal later, the car fired immediately, after only cranking for like 1 second. So now after 18 months my nicely rebuilt RB20DET is finally running. I am the happiest guy in the world at the moment : ).

Now i just have to get the rest of the car roadworthy....

Thanks heaps to all the guys who offered assistance and advice, it was all helpfull and much appreciated.

Cheers,

Adam

Great to hear it all finally paid off. If you get the chance, post some pics up - always nice to see a unique project come together. Perhaps even a few words on what to watch out for, just incase there is anybody else out there planning a similar engine upgrade.:D

Cheers

Steve

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, in the same way that you can't tell any SUV from any manufacturer in any size category from any other one, "sports" coupes now all look identical. Stand back and squint your eyes and the Supra and the 400Z and the GR/BRZ things all look the same. I was just thinking last night, when sitting behind a Subaru CrossTrek, that I have no idea what it is, how it differs from an XV, or a Forester, or an Outback, or anything else Subaru offer, and I couldn't tell if it was supposed to be small, medium or large. I contrasted that to the good old days, where a HQ Kingswood had familial similarities to an LJ Torana, but there is no way that you could confuse them, and how a bit later, the HX Kinger and the concurrent Torana and the Gemini all had familial similarities, but you still could not confuse them. Ditto the ugly Fords and Chryslers of the era. But now, a RAV4 looks like a Kluger, looks like a Yaris/Cross/whatever they're calling those stupid f**king things, looks like every other Toyota that's not a Camry/Corolla sedan.
    • The Prelude doesn't look that bad without all that lens distortion in those pics. Makes it look disproportionate when it isn't. Actually I kind of liked it at the Osaka Auto Messe earlier this year. 
    • Pour in the highest octane, non-ethanol fuel you can get and see if the readout changes. If it's dead bang on 11% then I would question the sensor. Another quick test, just take it out and run normal (in an american accent) gas-o-line through it and see if the sampled ethanol or lack of changes.   United E85 here in the land of drop bears does vary a bit, I've had as high as E87 (could be water in their tanks too, who knows)
    • Yep. And if you ever do, you'll just have to deal with it then.
    • E10 is pretty tightly regulated in percentage. Too much and engines can't adapt. Every incentive is against them to have too little ethanol though. The more ethanol the higher the octane.
×
×
  • Create New...