Rotating Garret Gt Series Exhaust Housing

[Wheezy]

Hey all, welp my new snail finally arrived this weekend and I have trial fitted it with great success.

My qestion is to those garrett guru's is how successful wil I be rotating the turbo exhaust housing. I need to rotate it around 180 degrees as since you can see in the pic im using a low mount manifold and the oil drain fitting is at the top of the turbo. If I rotate the housing then the turbochargers "core" will be facing the right way and I can then get some oil flowing in the correct way.

Can anyone forsee any issues I will have. I know you can rotate the inlet and exhaust housings, but by how much. granted I may have to take the comp cover off if thw two hosings foul but I just want to be sure I can set it the right way around.

Also the warranty slip etc from GCG / Gaarrett states that the oil drain should be no more than 5 degrees from dead square, how leaneant is this, I think ive read in passing upto 30 degrees, surely thats too much!

any advice is appreciated

-Jez

[tridentt150v]

Wheezy, I'm in the same boat. I was under the impression you could rotate the exhaust and intake housing as much as you needed, no worries, but I'd also like to get confirmation of this.

I also read somewhere on SAU that the oil drain should be as near to perpendicular as possible.

Did you have to use a spacer?

What wastegate are you going with? [see my other thread].

[Wheezy]

I was looking in your other thread, and no spacer needed even though everyone told me I would

Ill post in ur thread about my gate

[BEV11S]

Exhaust and compressor housings can be rotated the full 360 degrees to get the desired position.

And as stated above the oil drain should be as close to vertical as possible

[Wheezy]

Cheers BEV11S...figured as much

[Stronzo]

hi,

My friend had exactly the same problem as you at his ecr33 (exactly the same hks manfold and very similar looking garett turbo).

He did not rotate housings, just cut the tip of the outlet tube from compressor housing and welded a small elbow facing forward to it. I think this is the best way, but i think you`ll loose warranty with it.

Edited February 24, 2007 by Stronzo

[T04GTR]

just loosen the bolts that hold it on. and rotate it to the desired angle.

ps.. loosen the comp housing ones to.

[BHDave]

Quick question; Is that an rb30 block? Because you have way more room than i did down there with the same size comp cover.

My oil drain is a few degrees off vertical as by the time you install a 90 degree fitting off the top of the turbo you don't have enough room to sit it up straight (atleast not on my old plain bearing turbo anyway) and maintain some clearance to the manifold.

I see power steering hose fun in your future

[Wheezy]

hi,

My friend had exactly the same problem as you at his ecr33 (exactly the same hks manfold and very similar looking garett turbo).

He did not rotate housings, just cut the tip of the outlet tube from compressor housing and welded a small elbow facing forward to it. I think this is the best way, but i think you`ll loose warranty with it.

The garrett warranty card states that the bolts for the comp cover exhaust mani etc are actually loose and you adjust accordingly.

cheers for the heads up T04 GTR I thought I might have to

[extreme turbo manifolds]

as stated you can rotate both housings and core to your desired position.

you can have as much as 30 degree angle on the oil drain pipe before it may become an issue

[R31Nismoid]

Weld a pipe to curve the comp housing inlet.

trust me.

I had sooo many issues with mine similar to yours.

Stick a 90 degree bend and enough to get a good hose clamp onto it.

You'll thank yourself later on. I wish i did it when i did my setup years ago

[Wheezy]

Thanks for the input all.

BH Dave: Its an RB20DET silvertop in a HR31, its got so much room due to no A/C and a non HICAS pump due to me having a RB30E pump which is half the size of my old HICAS pump. And yes I already noticed the P/S line fun!!!! YAY for meeee.

Nizmoid: Cheers for that man. Im contemplating a few design ideas at the moment. Its defenantly going to have to go UP and over some shit thats for sure.

[BHDave]

It was more the clearance off the engine mount i was referring to. My comp cover sits really tight up against it so that i had to remove the thin metal shield piece, grind off the top of the engine mount and "reshape" the bit of the crossmember directly underneath the mount. I had rb20 silver top engine mounts too (though attached to a 25).

re piping ideas; mine at the tacked together stage.

Inlet was 2 90 degree 3 inch bends (both were cut part way round the bend though), outlet was just a straight 2.5 inch with a 90 bend at the end going through one of the stock holes in the body. There was no way i was going to get the outlet in with the stock ps reservoir there so it got relocated to the back corner. That gave me enough room to fit the type R bov in there later on and recirc it.

[Wheezy]

Yes that piece of metal on the engine mount Ive gotta take a closer look at its about 10mm away from the inlet. Ill see what I can do with it.

Would love to be able to see the image, forum in FF just loads the url, and IE loads junk (IE the files source)

BHDave any change of emailing me that image?

[email protected]

[600hp]

Its an HKS manilfold, not the stock one.

[BHDave]

? I realize it's an hks manifold. What do you think mine is?

Image seems to be working now.

[Wheezy]

? I realize it's an hks manifold. What do you think mine is?

Image seems to be working now.

AH I see now what you were talking about. Im going to try to use a 4" inlet and be creative with it, I had another look at the engine mount and the main bit that looks in the way I am probably going to cut it to stop it fouling and get the P/S line properly re bent with some tools from a mate.

Im also getting a friend of mine (mechanic, engineering whiz) to take a look at the mount and suggest how I / we can cut it and be 100% confident it wont cause any other issues. Other than that cheers for the pic, Ill be keeping that to help me out.

Also, the HR31 has a frak load more room than most skylines and also the fact no AC is there helps a heap too

Ive got a mate with a R33 with a GT3040R .82 or whatever it is who has a Trust 4" inlet so hes a great source for a perv at what I need to do, unfortunately he is IW and using std mani. So his input is limited compared to you boys with taste such as me.

Lastly BHDave.....in regards to your manifold, have you coated your with any ceramic coating etc? Mines currently in exhaust paint, which I reckon will melt off pertty easy, I was thinking going HPC coatings in VIC for race coating (black stuff) $400 tho Your manifold looks rust free like you see alot of cast manifolds, HKS ones included, just wondering your secret.

cheers

-Jez

[BHDave]

If you saw it in person you wouldn't be impressed. Its pretty rusty, got handled alot when trial fitting with very grotty hands, had oil spilled on it (and burned off) when doing cams, no paint.

The back half is covered by a heat shield now so that tidies it up a bit.

[Wheezy]

HRMMMM time to fork out $400 on HPC ceramic coatings then

[tridentt150v]

Better check on that, a certain business that is well known and respected told me it was all a waste of time and that it all comes off soon anyway. I'm getting my manifold extrude honed and wanted to coat it as well, but have now gone right off the idea. Think I might wrap it instead?

Wheezy I'll PM you which business.