Jump to content
SAU Community

Thermo Fan

cruzin33

By cruzin33,
in South Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

heslo Grand Master

heslo

Posted
Posted

Nice, looks like I'll be getting one of these babies too then, will probably fit it when I go to install my FMIC. Andrew, did you get the 14' or the 16'? I'm thinking of getting the 16' should give a little better air flow

heslo Grand Master

heslo

Posted
Posted

Ah awesome, all I wanted to hear, looks like I'll be getting one of these babies then. Take it you haven't installed it yet? Just wanted to get a rough idea of how loud they are, couldn't imagine them being much worse than the stock ones however

Nightcrawler Grand Master

Nightcrawler

Posted
Posted

nah I haven't yet mate .... hoping to in the next few weeks (is part of a larger upgrade, so I need a free and clear weekend to do it all). But given the curved blade design I take it it is quieter than the stock fan. Also, I bought a Pivot oil and water temp controller, so I can manually adjust what temperature range the fan comes on. So unlike the stock fan which runs all the time, my fans will stay off until the water tamp is around 90 degrees, which helps everything warm up quicker (and results in less noise overall)

Nightcrawler Grand Master

Nightcrawler

Posted
Posted

The Pivot cost me around $200 delivered, but apparently retail for $300. I bought it on special from performance-wise - he was good to deal with (I bought an HDi EBC and HKS wastegate actuator off him too). It is a cool little gadget, and since the Pivot displays water and oil temp digitally, it allows me to convert my existing AutoMeter oil temp gauge into a trans temp gauge, and I am replacing my AutoMeter water temp gauge with a smoked face AFR gauge.

I will post a post up tonight about my new carbon face gauge install, but here is a sneak peak with the Pivot on the top left hand side. I will get some better pics in the daylight too.

lightson.jpg

closerflash.jpg

Nightcrawler Grand Master

Nightcrawler

Posted
Posted

The unit includes an oil temp sensor/probe, and is intended to wire into the ecu to get water temp (but has provision for you to add a water sensor probe like I already have). I am not confident at all the in the ECU water temp sensor, since all Nissans tend to sit on warm on the oem gauge and then hit boiling hot within 1 seconds and nothing inbetween, meanwhile you fry your engine. Not sure if it would accurate or not, but I prefer the hardware method anyhow - and since I already have an in-line water temp orble in the radiator hose I will keep it.

heslo Grand Master

heslo

Posted
Posted

Awesome, that's what I was worried about too, I've noticed the same problem as you have so that's definitely an added bonus. Will have to track on down! Will be interested to see your dash install pics when you post them up!

  • 4 months later...
silman Rising Star

silman

Posted
Posted (edited)

could you guys give an update as to how happy you've been with these thermo's having had them installed a little while? A few questions;

What gauge wiring did you use?

Did you have any issues with the alternator?

Did you upgrade the wiring to the alternator?

I purchased a pivot fan controller and 2 spal high flow 12" fans rated at 1630cfm each. with one turned on, it runs at 90 degrees water temp and the alternator handles it no probs.

With 2 turned on it runs at 79 degrees, but the load on the alternator goes from being constant 14 degrees, and dipping down to low 12's at bumper to bumper traffic on my Power FC readout. This is 10 gauge wiring going through a 30 amp relay each fan. I have purchased some 4 gauge wiring to try as a fix, but am wondering if it's just a case of the 80 amp alternator not being good enough?

Edited by silman
cruzin33 Veteran

cruzin33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I was very happy with my 14inch thermo but since my motor is getting forged and aiming for some big power iv since got another 14inch fan but to fit 2 fans in i hade to make some custom s/s brackets with around 20mm over hang eash side.

  • 4 months later...
H@ME Mentor

H@ME

Posted
Posted

"Unsure about the 33's but twins won't fit the 32's due to the a/c receiver dryer."

i know some one who has twin thermo's and they work a treat in a R32 keep the thing cool as ice!

is it possible to take out the auxilory fan off the rb25det and just run thermo's?

pro's? con's?

hame

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • joshuaho96
      Rb25det Belts Change

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
    • silviaz
      Rb25det Belts Change

      By silviaz · Posted

      nvm this comment
    • silviaz
      Rb25det Belts Change

      By silviaz · Posted

      I'm almost at a point where I feel like changing the alternator. Need to check the stuff you mentioned first though.
    • Wazmond
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By Wazmond · Posted

      @Dose Pipe Sutututu I read your replies RE: R35 GTR MAFs, any ideal spots to put on? Obviously will need the adapter plate. Will be having a cross over intercooler fitted shortly, would putting it a bit before the TB be okay?
×
×
  • Create New...