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I've recently got my car back on the road, and it now has Porsche brakes, and lots more power. I currantly have sustec shocks with unknown springs (came like that from japan).

With the bigger brakes, the car dives like a submorine when i hit the brakes and unsettles the rear, and that means i can't trail brake anymore (needed on the 2nd last corner of symmonds). So i'm looking at a new suspention setup, I'm thinking of the SK group buy kit, but i've read a few people that don't like it, and i've also read a few people say that the alternatives (like tein) are shit shocks.

So some other peoples experiences would be nice.

Thanks

well if you are serious about track I'd look at something like the nismo G-attack R-tune shocks (or their ohlins equivelant, same thing basically). Or the Tein Type RA. both these are 4 way adjustable, have remote canisters, and all alloy shock body. I run the nismo G-attack Rtunes and they are a very nice damper. lots of adjustability there. and good quality too.

Unless you have lots on money to spend i think its hard to go past some Bilsteins and nice springs. Get the alignment right and it will handle almost as good as the cars with big dollar suspension.

If you dotn want to go too hard on the springs then throw some swaybars at the car to work with the springs.

Some ppl like the adjustability of the jap shocks...but personally i would just get into trouble by playing with it too much...a good handling car is a good handlign car. I dont see the need to be playing with the rebound rates at track days. Perhaps tweak the rear swaybar if required...but honestly once i found a nice setup i havent really touched my car.

Though its not a GTR...but i dont really see how they can be that different

What are the Nismo G-Shock S-Tunes like? They have a nice spring rate for the road.

Also what are the adjustible bilsteins like? We have them on the Targa car, and we drove it down from Sydney, and i didn't think they rode too bad at all (comfort wise). Can you get them for R32's? Cause they are alot cheaper than the R-Tunes.

If I were to get diferent shocks than SK's Bilsteins, would the rest of his kit be fine for harder suspention?

if your car is mainly street use I'd say it's hard to go past the bilstein shocks with some suitable srpings. and they do perform very well on track too.

I don't think the S-tunes would be any better than the bilsteins. the R-tunes are more expensive as they are a big step up, but they are definately not as comfortable for road use. I haven't used the adjustable bilsteins so not sure on them, but i would assume they are good.

I think you're going to have trouble finding a nice ride and something that can stop your car diving under brakes. You need more spring rate up front to stop your car diving, adding more spring rate you're going to lose ride quality. A good shock can help reduce some of the loss of ride quality. It's a trade off - what do you want more? :D

This thread will show you how to measure your current springs, so that I can calculate the spring rates for you.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=79157

Once we know the spring rates, I can give you some idea of the way forward.

Regarding excessive front end dive under brakes. Despite what some people will tell you, you don't need to run high spring rates to control the dive under brakes, we use the low frequency shock valving to more effectively do that. Leaving the high frequency shock valving with sufficient to subtleness for good tyre contact.

You can’t achieve that sort of valving control with the unsophisticated valving found in Japanese shock absorbers.

In addition you can run a little more anti dive in the front suspension geometry. I can show you how to do that as well.

You haven’t mentioned stabiliser bars, as well as roll control, they are very useful for controlling diagonal weight transfer. The sort of weight transfer you get when trail breaking.

Lastly if you improve the suspension and lift the cornering speed, maybe you won’t have to brake as hard anyway.

Some things for you to think about.

:) cheers :)

ferni: I don't mind a hard ride at all, but I see a difference between a firm ride, and getting your teeth shaken out as you bounce all over the road.

sk: I knew there was other things to do apart from springs and shocks, just didn’t know what they were. I’ll measure my springs during the week.

  • 4 weeks later...

Right, i've found my spring rates.

~3 kg/mm Front

~2.6 kg/mm Rear

We've been doing heaps of recce in the Targa car, and the more i'm in it, the more I like it's suspention (screw type HA bilsteain, with 2 springs in front). It rides realy well over our crappy Tasmanian roads, and the car handels realy nice. But i'm not sure if you can get it to fit the R32?

Right, i've found my spring rates.

~3 kg/mm Front

~2.6 kg/mm Rear

We've been doing heaps of recce in the Targa car, and the more i'm in it, the more I like it's suspention (screw type HA bilsteain, with 2 springs in front). It rides realy well over our crappy Tasmanian roads, and the car handels realy nice. But i'm not sure if you can get it to fit the R32?

Unfortunately they are only available for R33GTR's and R34GTR's.

:P cheers :whistling:

  • 8 months later...
This thread will show you how to measure your current springs, so that I can calculate the spring rates for you.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=79157

Once we know the spring rates, I can give you some idea of the way forward.

Regarding excessive front end dive under brakes. Despite what some people will tell you, you don't need to run high spring rates to control the dive under brakes, we use the low frequency shock valving to more effectively do that. Leaving the high frequency shock valving with sufficient to subtleness for good tyre contact.

You can’t achieve that sort of valving control with the unsophisticated valving found in Japanese shock absorbers.

In addition you can run a little more anti dive in the front suspension geometry. I can show you how to do that as well.

You haven’t mentioned stabiliser bars, as well as roll control, they are very useful for controlling diagonal weight transfer. The sort of weight transfer you get when trail breaking.

Lastly if you improve the suspension and lift the cornering speed, maybe you won’t have to brake as hard anyway.

Some things for you to think about.

:nyaanyaa: cheers :w00t:

can you please explain this more in depth.In addition you can run a little more anti dive in the front suspension geometry

cheers.

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