Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

took my car to the drags the other night.. and just as it came on boost in 4th gear, it start blowing white smoke..

didnt do it for the first 3 gears, didnt do it for the burnout before the drag, just in 4th gear...

it has done it once before on a cruise, booted it up a hill and it blew a bit of smoke just before limiter.

its a relatively stock RB25.. exhaust, pod, fmic, 12psi boost...

from what ive read/been told, it sounds like a turbo seal?

the car 'seems' to drive relatively fine (havent driven it fo a few months, after i just had a new engine put in, but its the turbo off my old engine), but i cant feel and 'struggling' and it hits 12psi fine.

any thoughts?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157938-rb25-smoking-in-high-revs/
Share on other sites

took my car to the drags the other night.. and just as it came on boost in 4th gear, it start blowing white smoke..

didnt do it for the first 3 gears, didnt do it for the burnout before the drag, just in 4th gear...

it has done it once before on a cruise, booted it up a hill and it blew a bit of smoke just before limiter.

its a relatively stock RB25.. exhaust, pod, fmic, 12psi boost...

from what ive read/been told, it sounds like a turbo seal?

the car 'seems' to drive relatively fine (havent driven it fo a few months, after i just had a new engine put in, but its the turbo off my old engine), but i cant feel and 'struggling' and it hits 12psi fine.

any thoughts?

white smoke isnt a good sign, probably burning oil due to a turbo seal

tuner was the problem i think hey mitchy :wacko:

still got the smoke issues? it didnt look good on that cruise and its weird its only in 4th gear or high rpm. if u come down to this end of the woods i can do a leakdown test and comp test on the motor as i just bought a leakdown tester. this will show if the motor is good or not. how hard are 25's to get plugs out?

Even with the turbo off it can be difficult to determine if it is the turbo seal.

Sounds almost as if oil is dumping through the system at high rpm.

Mine would fill the cam covers after a hard 7000rpm run and ploom smoke out the exhaust as I had no catch can.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, I'm trying to make this thread basically the thread with all the answers to common questions regarding specifically the RB20 DE NEO + T engine, that comes in the R34. Answers will and only should be provided by those who have done this conversion or actually have some relevant real life experience please. Please feel free to ask questions in the comments if you have any so other members can answer. I feel like this thread is really needed, especially with more Americans buying (unknowingly going to regret it too) rb20 neo r34s. My first question being - What do you guys use for tuning? I have purchased a haltech elite 2500 Plug and play kit for the rb25det NEO because the ecu plug is the same, but I am unsure if any of the pins would need to be repined to match. Second question that I see asked very often - After this conversion, did you install the boost solenoid/ actuator? I see many people doing a + T setup on their rb20 NEOs while running stock RB25DET NEO ECUs with no tune. I am wondering how they are going about doing that and consistently abusing the car because many of these people have had these untuned setups running for a very long time. That was my original plan, but my engine cuts out at 5 psi of boost using the stock ecu with no tune and no boost solenoid/actuator.
    • interesting. ive read and heard otherwise over the past year. ive been doing this +t conversion on a rb20 neo using all oem rb25det neo parts including the ECU, and im having engine cut out issues when I hit around 5 psi of boost. Everywhere/everyone ive asked has told me its because I never wired in a boost solenoid/actuator to the ecu, so the ecu isn't getting the right signal once it hits 5 psi of boost, causing the engine to get shut off.
    • Mate, I take this thread in random directions on occasion myself, so no foul I'm a old fan of MCM anyway, I like their banter, and enjoy most of the stuff they do
    • Something strange is happening. I didn't touch the car since we last spoke on the forums. Yesterday was the first day of good weather, so i took it out for about 2 hours. It started up on first crank every time about 5 times total. I literally didn't do anything to do the car.  
    • I purchased this one. Very well priced and works great. I was rough with it to see if it will last and had no issues.  Teslong Two-Way Articulating Borescope with Light, Industrial Endoscope Inspection Camera with Articulated Probe, Flexible Mechanic Fiber Optic Snake Scope Cam for Wall Automotive Engine Inspect-5FT : Amazon.ca: Industrial & Scientific
×
×
  • Create New...