Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Cars heading into the shop tm for a dyno tune with the following mods

Boost Controller

Power FC

Full TUrbo Back Exhaust with screamer pipe

FMIC

Pod

how much power should i be expecting and at what boost levels.

im also not to sure on how much boost i can run before seriously dropping my turbos life

Edited by Beer Baron
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158013-expected-power-output/
Share on other sites

200kw at 12psi....damn ...will i encounter any problems if i run it at 12psi constently?

Yeah round 200rwkw or just short.

12psi is safe, stock 34 turbo runs out of efficiency after that anyway, risk of shattering that ceramic wheel exponentially increases after that.

12psi constantly?? Unless ur planning on having ur foot flat to the floor at all times.

lol no i ment just set it to 12psi whne i do have my foot flat

do u guys recommend anywhere i can tune my car. ive read the shops that SAU recommend but does anyone really recommend anyone there?

i was thinkin about RE customs in VIC

Edited by anDru

Please use the search function of this forum.

Results sticky have 8 pages worth aswell, and requires no search to even be performed.

Im sure you can find at least 3 or 4 results on there, plus the countless others posted.

As for workshops, they are all listed/covered in the Vic section as you are very much aware of.

So please go have a read of that section and its related sticky threads.

cheers

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   anyone know where I can pick one of these up for a reasonable price? I just resprayed my rear trunk due to fuel stain and my new muse spat install.    added a photo for some content 馃ぃ馃憤   thanks 
    • Consider a 35 too...
    • He's right ~ there is no 'magic' with stuff like this ... it is more likely that in the process of looking for the short, the loom/wire 'incidentally' got moved in the process, thus removing the short ~ now, that maybe a wire (in a loom) rubbing against the edge of some grounded metal, that's worn through the insulation, causing the (now intermittent) short to ground. If one wire in a loom has been damaged in this fashion, it's reasonable to presume that other wires beside it may have also be damaged, and now exposed...you can bet the green crusty copper corrosion will start... ...that'd be a pisser, Murphy's Law steps right in as GTS observes...but worse, something like that is easier to find when shorted...ie; unplug bulb and fuse, and put multimeter in continuity mode so you get constant beep, and carefully poke about hoping to find if some movemet of the harness stop the beeping.... ...it's still all a bit Arnie tho' ..It'll be back... 馃槂
    • Yeah, but knowledge of one wire's insulation worn through to short on earth implies the possibility of other wires doing the same. I had my power steering die, because the wire that runs to the solenoid valve on the rack runs in the same loom as the power wire for the O2 sensor. And when the O2 sensor/wire did something stupid and burnt part of that loom to death, the only indication was the shit(ter) fuel economy and the heavy steering. It took deep excavation of the looms in the bay to find the problem. Not wear through in that case, but similar shit.
    • Ah, I thought he'd wired it to one of the spare ECU inputs! Too long ago since I read that post, ha ha. I've been arguing with radiators, harmonic balancers, alternators and rust since reading it.
  • Create New...