Jump to content
SAU Community

Rich Fuel

adamR33

By adamR33,
in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)

 Share

Recommended Posts

adamR33 Apprentice

adamR33

Posted
Posted (edited)

hey guys now i just brought a series 1 r33 gtst from o,neill car yard in southport QLD and its a an auto and stock beside from the catback high flow and 600x300 front mount . and its nearly 30Littres of fuel every 200ks even on long trip and not giving it boost . boost is stock . just been dyno by who ever the dealership took it to then it was running so good after that but still running rich .. is this normal for S1 R33 gtst to go through 30L every 20ks on long trip. cheers, adam :D

what would be the problem to solve this..

Edited by adamR33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158035-rich-fuel/
Share on other sites
95SKY Community Regular

95SKY

Posted
Posted (edited)

i had a 33 gtst auto and it use to be quite thirsty on the juice. Does it have a atmo BOV? I think it may play apart in it especially the BOV. i use to get about 300 ks to a tank which is not to good at all. Mite have to look at getting a safc to controll the fuel mixtures? feel free to correct me if im wrong? :D

Edited by 95SKY
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158035-rich-fuel/#findComment-2934045
Share on other sites
adamR33 Apprentice

adamR33

Posted
  • Author
Posted
i had a 33 gtst auto and it use to be quite thirsty on the juice. Does it have a atmo BOV? or Exhaust etc? I think they may play apart in it especially the BOV. i use to get about 300 ks to a tank which is not to good at all. Mite have to look at getting a safc to controll the fuel mixtures? feel free to correct me if im wrong? :D

hey thanks well the BOV is factory but notice it has the excact same mitshi 4g63t stock bov as i used to have a cc coupe with a 4g63t vr4 in it. 3inch stainless catback exhause. and whats a safc controle cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158035-rich-fuel/#findComment-2934079
Share on other sites
gts-4 dreamer Mentor

gts-4 dreamer

Posted
Posted

change your plugs first, clean your injectors and then replace your 02 sensor. If still not happy then get a SAFC to lean it out a bit

all true

check voltages on 02 sensor... search you wil find...

plugs... etc

injecotr cleaner and a few tanks... general maintanence wouldnt hurt.

for me i had the same issue but once i changed my smic to fmic a great deal of problems went away for me... but admitedly do ALL the rest first then try this... another idea is check weather you really o have stock management in your car...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158035-rich-fuel/#findComment-2937791
Share on other sites
adamR33 Apprentice

adamR33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ok check my ecu , its all stock O2 senser is brand new as the car has only done 68,000ks but i know the o2 senser no where near that , should i close the gap to 0.8 and how much better will this safc do to the fuel saving well what would be to average be as mine is about 17L per 100ks..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158035-rich-fuel/#findComment-2938269
Share on other sites
95SKY Community Regular

95SKY

Posted
Posted (edited)
yes i have the same problem. how do you clean your injectors, just with some additives.

You can have them cleaned from injector cleaner (but make sure the additive is suitable for turbo charged engines) but realy your best of getting them professionaly done.

Edited by 95SKY
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158035-rich-fuel/#findComment-2938976
Share on other sites
fr0st Experienced

fr0st

Posted
Posted

The general consensus from pretty much all fuel based threads is -

Injector cleaner - Cleans injectors, cheap fix

Decent fuel - explanatory

Reset ECU - prevents the car from running on knock maps from crap fuel

Clogged cat - creates restriction, car runs crap

Vacuum leak - causes car to run crap

Spark plugs - wrong rating can cause crap economy

Oxygen sensor - if dead causes crap economy

Injector stuck open/faulty - causes excess fuel to be dumped

I might have missed a few, but just keep going down the list till it fixes the problem

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158035-rich-fuel/#findComment-2939373
Share on other sites
adamR33 Apprentice

adamR33

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

ok i think i figered something can someone tell me if these are the right plugs as this is the one i had in it from the car yard its NGK..R...BCPR6ES... cheers...adam

p.s its an r33 rb25det S1

post-35464-1172636289.jpg

Edited by adamR33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158035-rich-fuel/#findComment-2941344
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Import insurance in 2025

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      The max they would go for me is 50.
    • Duncan
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By Duncan · Posted

      That cannot have been a fun set of drilling. The stock "baffle" looks identical to rb26, I just cut fuel cell foam to fit the full length under the baffle.
    • CRSKmD
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By CRSKmD · Posted

    • GTSBoy
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I understand your sarcastic exasperation. But to be fair - the baffles do indeed fit OEM cam covers. They did omit to say that you need to do a bunch of stuff. But they do fit them.
    • CRSKmD
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By CRSKmD · Posted

      Got started on the modification to make these splash plates fit over the long weekend. First the surprisingly time consuming task of swapping all the cam cap bolts to Tomei cam cap studs. I did the method of removing one bolt at a time, applying loctite to the stud, double nutting to torque as the manual described. Then carefully unlocking the nuts without disrupting the torque of the stud (and going back to re-torque a few times when it slipped). Finally applying the nut and torquing to spec. Repeat x28 Next up I went about removing the stock cam cover baffle so I could ensure it was fully clean after drilling for stud clearance.  As the blind rivets holding the baffle on were domed I used a punch to mark the center then used 4mm drill bit to carefully drill out the rivet without going too far part the baffle. As seen in other thread here is what is inside the stock baffles I decided on M4x6mm bolts to bolt the baffle plate back on with. I used a 3.3mm drill bit with some tape to mark the depth at ~8mm. Next was to tap the threads using a cheap bunnings kit M4x0.7. With the baffle removed I also drilled out the spot welds holding in the baffle plate oil returns. Unsure whether this was the best option or if I should have cut holes in the Hypertune splash plates to allow the oil drains to still function... time will tell. I then removed the the Hypertune splash plates so I could rest the cam cover on top and use a dab of grease to mark where the studs impacted the oem cam cover baffle. The most obvious spot was on the hump from the stock mesh is held. Using this hole as an anchor I bolted the oem baffle plate back into the cam cover and lined up the Hypertune splash plate. Marked the rest of the holes for the studs and drill those out too. Total 32 holes drilled and 12 threads tapped on the passenger side cam cover alone for this bolt on part that totally clears all OEM cam covers.. Drivers side next as well as some E85 safe fuel foam to fill the space behind the behind cam cover baffle plates. oh and some lock nuts for the splash plates of course.
×
×
  • Create New...