Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 123
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hey mate "reo" as in the front bar reinforcement so someone like me can get rid of my gts front bar and put on a gtr one by changing the reinforcement... anyways would it be up for sale? do you have the 32 wing for sale? cheers l8rz

More part have been added.

*R33 air con controll - $20

*R32 door just a shell $40

-used 87mm N1 piston 24U still in good condition for $800

* Used JUN high beam CONROD still in perfect condition for $1500

*R32 center air vent $60

*R33 center surround $70

*R32 GTR feul tank and pump still in tank $170 or just the pump $100

*Autometer Boost gague white face with cup $60

-R32 GTR bonnet white colour $500

-GTR gear box in working order $1000

*R32 Radiator $150

*GTR turbo a pair (got little play in it) $600

-R32 side Mirror black $450

-OMONI 3 center gague for R32GTR or GTST white face with sensor and wiring $200

-R32 GTR 2 front guard no dent or scratch $400 each

-R32 GTR instrument cluster 320KM alumic brand $200

*R33 GTST rear caliper and rotor $200 97 model

-Greedy pipe for single turbo $200

-Trust oil catch can $50

-R32 GTR rear oil pump $200

*Tranfer case tail shaft $100

- Z32 AFM still in working condition $250 each.

*OS triple plate clutch still in preety good condition heap of meat left $1300

-SARD 75occ injector $800

*GTR starter motor $120

-RB26 alternator $100

*GTR brake master cyclinder $80

*RB26 power steering pump $150

-Trust Type R BOV $320

this goods can be inspect before payment.

if you need any infor pm me or leave me a post.

post-33276-1176804317.jpg

post-33276-1176804342.jpg

post-33276-1176804367.jpg

post-33276-1176804390.jpg

Edited by khmer
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...