Custom Intake Pipe

[YLD-180]

Well as the topic states i finally got my ass in 2 gear and made and finished my custom intake pipe for my S2 R33 Skyline, rather than by 1.

Parts:- Cost est

- stainless steel (tube) 65mm x 45 degree elbow

- " " 80mm " " - 2 bends & reducer i got cost price 4 $65

- " " 65mm - 80mm reducer

- 2 1/2" silicone tube - had some lying around

- 3 1/4" " " - $16

- 2 x heavy duty bolt clamps to suit 3 1/4" silicone tube - $6 each

- 1/4 " s/s hose barb - $5

- 2 x 3/4" s/s hose barbs - $15-20 each.

- 4 x 3/4" hose clamps - $2-3

- est. 1m 3/4" clear hose (cotton weave) - $5-10

Some pics:-

i had to cut back the 65mm 45 degree elbow to make bout a 30 degree elbow, no pipe was needed in between just the reducer piece and it a very snug fit as u can see. the 80mm elbow i took bout 10-15mm of each end just to make it shorter, plus i cut back the rubber on the the pod filter where it connects to the air flow meter.

made a bit of a difference just smother air flow sucks a bit louder, and for all of u that are fully sick! yes it does make ur little VL turbo noise if i get a chance ill add a sound clip

feel free to comment it was a good little project bit of self satisfaction on making it myself rather than buying one. plan on spraying it black but i just wanted to fit it asap so yeah

Edited February 26, 2007 by YLD-180

[chinkeboi]

nice job

would you like to post some further info regarding the difference benefits etc etc.. even some sound clips if you can be bothered!

[BAMR33]

Don't mean to criticize, but the same thing can be achieved with a 3" SS 90* bend and a 3-2.5" silicon reducer.

[tmc_2]

Interested in making another one to sell?

[2gceffy]

i was planning on doing the same soon, was gonna buy 3" tube then just use silicon reduser for the turbo.. iv already got rid of my bov return and planned to run my blow-by breather to a catch can or something to avoid havin to weld a nipple on for it

prob wont get round to doin it tho

[R31Nismoid]

Now we have a Fab Section... i've moved this one!

This is the sorta thread we look for

Great work

[YLD-180]

Now we have a Fab Section... i've moved this one!

This is the sorta thread we look for

Great work

thanks R31Nismoid

u could use a silicone reducer (probly cheaper) but i wanted to duplicate the standard intake in hard pipe n if i get round to it, spray it black. try keep it lookn standard as possible if i get my hands on some 3/4" black hose ill swap it with the clear aswell.

im not sure bout making another 1 at the moment to sell, well not any time soon but if i do ill keep sau updated

[bLaQ.bOi]

awesome work mate

cant wait to start my projects!!!

[Gazee]

thats some really good work... i wish i could weld lol if you polish it up to get the heat stain off it then it will look a million bux..

[Craved]

Did you use an Oxy set to braze on those brass fittings?

[Richmond98]

i was thinking about making one. sounds like a lot of hard work. might just pay to get one. I like the idea of painting it black too.

[chinkeboi]

yeh i second the painting black part. If you were to powdercoat it, would it the powdercoating melt off? as this is a part of the car which is VERY close to a hot heat source

[YLD-180]

thats some really good work... i wish i could weld lol if you polish it up to get the heat stain off it then it will look a million bux..

yeah thats true but i want 2 spray it black as i mentioned so im not to concerned plus u cant c a great deal of the pipe in the engine bay anyway

[gt-t_r34]

very nice job mate, id love to make one of those but i cant weld... ill just goto the exhaust shop!

[TurboX]

Nice job, but my solution was to cut the rubber pipe in the centre in half and insert a 3" 90' Bend in Stainless steel.

This neatly fits inside and does not block the std BOV feedback port where the rubber is solid to the turbo inducer anyway.

I simply put two stainless worm clamps back over the rubber bend in between the bulges on each side of the cut to seal it again

after making sure the angles were right so everything lined up OK at the AFM.

I also chamfered the inner edge of the Stainless tube to allow less interference to the airflow at the AFM end.

Cost $15 plus hours work all up.

[yellowsubmarine]

yeah nice job there bud when i did mine i was similer but i was 3 inch aal the way with a silicon coverter to fit it on and save money with the metal reducer

[Bass Junky]

Nice work.

I was trying to get one of these made a couple of years ago, but I wanted to keep the BOV and PCV returns 100% stock position, so I gave up after a while. I wanted to be able to sell them as a complete replacement for stock, zero mods.

Couldn't really do it because of the location of those returns.

Gave up on it until I found the silicone replacements in my latest group buy.

I like the look of yours though.

Oh, and powder coating it wont be a problem. Will cost SFA too.

BASS OUT!

[rb26s13]

Did you use an Oxy set to braze on those brass fittings?

looks lik its been welded than grinded back

[FOG35]

Why did you use heavy duty hose clamps on intake pipe and then standard ones everywhere else that actually hold pressure?

[seriesII]

i likey... that would sound nice... its like 300$ plus to get the apexi one of these from nengun.. nice