Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looks great man,

On an unrealted note, i dont really understand how your boost control is set up.

How come there is a vacum line running from the intake pipe into the boost control solenoid?

And how come there is the vacume line running off the cooler pipe into the boost controler but no vacum line running from the controller to the waste gate actuator?

Haha am i missing something here?

Cheers

looks like ass, there are a heap of ways u cld of done that, and why grind the welds back ...

u dont even need to go crazy and get full on barbed fittings ... make sure its smooth on the inside :)

  • 1 month later...
hey guyz i just got my custom intake pipe made up....i had one sand casted then made out of aluminium ... exact same as factory one...but made of aluminium :). a frend of mine does sand and die casting. tell me what yous think

haha that looks freaky. spray it matt black and trick people ;)

That has to be one of the coolest projects I've seen. You could have the front section up near the turbo kept the same and then a thinner section put on up to the airbox to keep the diameter and some silicone in there somewhere to keep the flexibility.

Impressive man, very impressive.

  • 1 year later...

with changing it, would it heat up more than the stock as the stock is rubber and this is aluminium? because i'm thinking about changing mine but still doing abit of research to see if it heats up more or not.

  • 2 weeks later...

im considering putting the afm into the cooler piping, and using a stock intercooler pipe for the intake, and welding or putting some nipples on it for the two hoses that connect to the intake pipe, i think this stock cooler piping i got is 2.5 inches, but i like it caus it already has a bend in it and its blackk...

i might even try and weld it to a custom box, that has a pod inside, so its all in one, intake-box-pod,

anyideas of how i could weld some nipples on the piping, i think its steel,

or should i just get a 3" pipe to connect to the turbo, and etc

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They are what I will be installing. 640s for me.
    • Hmm... From my experience you get about 0.25° camber change per mm of RUCA length change. So, to correct from -2.5 up to less than -1° (or, more than -1° if you look at the world as a mathematician does) then you'd be making 6-8mm of length change on the RUCA. From a stock length of 308mm, that's 2-2.5% difference in RUCA length. My RUCAs are currently very close to stock length - certainly only 2-3mm different from stock. I had to adjust my tension arms by 6mm to minimise the bump steer. That's 6mm out of 210, which is 2.8%. That's a 2.8% change on those, compared to a <1% change on the RUCAs. So the stock geometry already has worse bump steer than is possible - you can improve it even if you don't change the RUCA length. If you lengthen the RUCAs at all, then you will definitely be adding bump steer. Again, with my car, I recently had an unpleasant amount of bump steer, stemming from a number of things that happened one after another without me having an opportunity to correct for them. I only had to change the tension arm lengths by 1mm to minimise the resulting bump steer. (Granted, I also had to dial out a lot of extra toe-in in the rear, and excessive rear toe-in will make bump steer behaviour worse). Relatively tiny little adjustments having been made - the car is now completely different. Was horrifying how much it wanted to steer from the rear on any significant single wheel bump/dip. And it was even bad on expansion joints on long sweepers on freeway entry/exits, which are notionally hitting both rear wheels at the same time. My point is, the crappy Nissan multilink is quite sensitive to these things (unlike the very nice Toyota suspension!). And I think 99.75% of Skyline owners are blissfully ignorant of what they are driving around on. Sadly, it is a non-trivial exercise to set up to measure and correct bump steer. I am happy to show my rig, which involves nasty chunks of wood bolted to the hub, mirrors, lasers, graph paper targets and other horrors. Just in case anyone wants to see how it is done. I'll just have to set it up to take the photos.
    • What do you have in that bad boy ? Ill go with the 725cc since I'll be going with Nistune ( would definitely like more engine protection but Haltech is too far out of reach at the moment... plus, Ill probably have a pretty safe tune as its a daily, not gonna be chasing peak power 24/7 ahahah ). Are Xspurt a safe choice?  Pete's great. He didnt mention anything about traction arm length so I reckon it may be good. When I get some new wheels/tire later down the road I'll ask him about it and get his opinion on em. I heard from Gary that you've got the bilsteins too, are you running the sway bars too? and what other suspension goodies do you have installed or would recommend?
    • In true Gregging style...  
×
×
  • Create New...