Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 gtst timing belt/ water pump


steve_R32
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Probably a little bit off topic, but it reminded me of the time i had to remove the harmonic balancer on my old Commodore V8, and no matter what i tried (Body weight leaning on the breaker bar, hitting it with a hammer, borrowing a compressor and rattle gun) the damned bolt wouldn't come off!!!

Even after many of my friends having countless frustrating hours trying to get this crank bolt off, one of my friends after staring at the car for quite some time, came up with the idea of getting the breaker bar, putting a piece of pipe onto it's handle to make it longer and give it more leverage and placing it underneath the chassis rail, whilst i turned the key on the starter motor, and voila!!! one crank bolt loosened by the torque of the engine's own starter motor!

keep this nifty trick in mind kids, it could have saved me many hours of grief!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...
belt 1302820P25 - $82.25

water pump 2101070T25 - $97.06

Can anyone confirm these are the right parts for the RB20?

When I called the Nissan dealer, they said that is the right parts, but when 2 workshops (not just one) called them, they were both told they needed a different water pump, which is worth $386?! HUGE difference. Mechanic said that he knows the RB30 and RB25 are different (the bolt hole issue others have mentioned) but he isn't sure about RB20.

Thanks

Chris

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the belt part number is the right one although mine had a diff part number on it for the one i got but it only cost $88

water pump i was also quoted $383 through nissan which i thought was crazy they must have quoted an rb26 pump or something

i done this change over last friday/sat aswell as turbo change all was reletivaly easy if you have the tools to do it

we used a steering wheel, pulley puller to get the harmonic balancer off

to undo the crank bolt put it in 5th gear and have someone stand on the brakes so the car wont move and have someone use a tention wrench to breaker bar to undo it mine came off fairly easy

total cost was $88 + carton of beer :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Searched, and not found any concrete answers......

Can some one please tell me a definate part number (genuine, and/or non- genuine) for the R32 gts-t's RB20DET timing belt, and the water pump.

I want to be sure, so I dont have to pull it apart before I buy parts..

I have heard that the water pump is the same as the RB30 locally offered motor, but then I have heard that a bolt hole doesnt line up properly..

Where can I get a timing belt from, if not only the nissan dealer.. (I'm in Adelaide, southern suburbs) Tried motortraders, repco, sprint auto..no such luck..

Surely some of you R32 gtst owners have done the belt change yourselves? Or does everyone pay someone else to do it?

Any help is appreciated!

Steve

You don't need part numbers. Just write down your VIN number and walk into your local nissan dealer. They will give you the correct part for your vehicle. The RB25 belt should be the same as the RB20 belt but genuine is the best way to go for quality on this item. The VL water pump WILL fit your vehicle.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You don't need part numbers. Just write down your VIN number and walk into your local nissan dealer. They will give you the correct part for your vehicle. The RB25 belt should be the same as the RB20 belt but genuine is the best way to go for quality on this item. The VL water pump WILL fit your vehicle.

This is the reason I have brought this topic back. The problem is the Nissan dealer told me a $120 pump is the go, but told the 2 shops I rang that $380ish pump is the go. They are obviously different pumps. Seems the Nissan dealer isn't too sure.

I will try the Rb30 pump and see what happens

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Go either the cheaper RB30 pump or the GTR N1 pump that has the anti-cavitation plate that increases flow and prevents cavitation at high rpm.

Thats the only difference between the pumps. From memory the R33 series 2 pumps are slightly different being one bolt hole is slightly aligned different. If thats the case then grab a repco Rb30e pump as they have provision for this.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

sorry to dig this up.. but what part no. do u use for the idler and tensioner bearings/pulley?

is it the same as the rb25? coz i seen ppl getting them from bearing places for cheap.

Matt

Link to comment
Share on other sites

reason i asked coz i was hoping to buy all the parts need to do a timing belt, water pump, idler and tensioner and timing case seals in one visit to the garage.

no idea what numbers they are?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can tell you that when I got mine done, mechanic used

- RB30 water pump

- Cam Belt - Whatever Nissan reccomended (it was genuine)

The seals I left up to the mechanic to chase...same with bearings. The bearings were not in stock at CBC, he ended up having to get to sydney (live in newcastle) to find someone that stocked them.

I plan to post up the part numbers, just I am never on the net at home...which is where the receipt is.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The RB30 water pump has the same bolt pattern and will bolt up. (Its the RB25 that has a different bolt and won't bolt up)

But does it have the same impeller?

If its different you may get cavatation at high rpm on RB20.

The RB30 revs to 6400rpm where as the RB20 revs to 8000rpm.

Just a thought, that the impeller may be different, haven't actually inspected a 20DET pump alongside the RB30 so i can't say.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The Repco RB30 pump has provision for the RB25 S2 boltup.

With regards to cavitation.. I wouldn't worry. If you are reving to 8000rpm or anywhere over 6000-6500rpm you will be getting caviation with the stock pump anyway.

For track work where high rpm 6000-6500rpm+ is used definitely look at the rb26 N1 water pump.

A prime example is Roy's engine temp differences with those few more rev's.

I've seen my RB20 pump next to the rb30 pump. No differences, same design, same fin angle etc.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

eXc if u can post numbers .. that'll be handy.. when ever ur able to thats fine. as long as its before the end of the july lol.

thanks for the info.

Matt

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • People still have Skylines? I thought they're non-existent now. 
    • Harness update time have had great fun and learnt so much already so far with this project. I started off making both the ignition and injector sub harnesses in the hope any mistakes i made here aren't as hard to undo and learn from as the main harness.  A cool comparison of the old harness using presumably TXL wire and the new which is using Tezel. Also opted to use DTM plugs to keep the whole setup as neat and tidy as possible and tucked the wiring under the coil bracket to try and keep it all from sticking out too much. Although the injector harness, I'm not overly happy with as I'm still using the rubber boots that are supplied with the type of plugs it just looks ugly and sticks out like a sore thumb with the white identifiers so a slight redesign may be done.   Then it was main harness time and most importantly trying to route it nice and away from the heat it will use the OEM heater hose routing which is no longer present to keep the harness up high and secure. it's amazing how much smaller this harness is able to be compared to the old one. plugged everything into the emtron and with the help of the tuner again attempted to start it up and instantly fired up and running smoothly on all 6 which was a big shock to myself. So still some routing and adjusting to be done for the final fit up and installing a knock sensor harness plug which is in the post all has gone surprisingly well.     The old harness for shits and giggles.
    • They do that at random every now and then, with almost no detectable cause. Mine has done it a couple of times (over 25 years!!). Never worked out why.
    • I don't post on here and have been lurking for some time now. Many of the topics have helped me out more times than i can count. I was racing yesterday (11/9) and blew a front right CV shaft. I have spares so I popped a new one in. A thread i read previously said to check the engine mounts if you blow a front CV. Upon inspection, the front right mount was completely separated from the upper plate. This discovery saved me time and money, because i would have blown another CV if i went back out. Just wanted to thank you guys and wish everyone luck with with their builds. (Now if we could only come up with a solution for my power steering belt flying off after hitting the rev limiter, lol)
    • Either way he still need those style of spacer to go into the manifold because the photo he currently has is not going to work 
×
×
  • Create New...