Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys.

so i have done some searching and haven't come up with much, but then again, my search skills are crap.

I need to replace my manifold gasket, and while the car was off the road, i figured i might get one of these, but i do not know if they are any good.

I only have a stock turbo at the moment, hoping to upgrade later on down the track.

I know stainless steel manifold are usually not too good, as they tend to crack, so i was wondering if anyone has had any experiance with these manifold, also i know it would not give me necessarly more power, but would it help increase responce at all?

Any of is great thanks.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...mMakeTrack=true

I wouldn't paint it. It probably won't hold, and it'll just burn and flake off.

Sure, sandblast it, but it'll just rust again in no time.,

Most likely your manifold will have warped and probably won't seal on, so you might have to get the mating surface machined.

Yeah i have a spear manifold i am getting ready, so i will prep it all prior to teh other one comming off. I have some 1500degC paint, it takes 6 coles and needs to be baked between each coat. Has some alluminum stuff in it or something.

i made the mistake of buying one, didnt even fit on (unless i used some sort of a spacer, but whos gona use a spacer?) like every1 else has said, dont buy it, but a brand named manifold

p.s i was lucky i got my money refunded

Have you considered comp coatings? I got mine done(with a whole lot of other stuff, wastegate, ex housing inlet manifold) and it cost $350

Sorry my slow brain........comp coating??? Please explain?? Thanks Adriano

Competition coatings i think is a company that does ceramic coatings for manifolds and exhausts and whatnot. Like HPC and whatever other companies around that do ceramic coatings. You'd only ever do the black (highest temp) coating as the normal silvery one cant handle the heat in a turbocharged system. We had our dump pipe on the race car done in the silver and it just flaked off after a few race meets.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, so widen your search to any Nissan speedo first, then go wider if needed. I will say though, that there is a better than even chance that what I said first will likely come into play. They quite possibly won't come apart without damage. I tried to disassemble a stepper gauge that I wanted to repair. There was no way that needle was coming off the spindle, and I could not see how the spindle would come out of the mechanism behind. Assembled once, never to be disassembled, was my conclusion. Could be the same on the R34 cluster. Failing that - take the cluster to a workshop that specialises in automotive instrument work. There's usually at least one in every Australian city. They'll either be able to do it for you for small cost, or tell you it can't be done. It might be that "it can't be done" unless you follow some arcane procedure, including trickiness to glue it back together or something, that only experienced techs know.
    • Well, given that I, an engineer, almost never bring out the torque wrench to tighten up chassis bolts, despite fully knowing the theory, and instead rely on feel, which I happen to know is exactly how the majority of mechanics do things, should tell you the level of actual peril that exists from not achieving exactly 88 Nm of torque. How about if I just say then that 88Nm is at the lower end of the correct wheel nut torque range? Everyone knows how to tighten a wheel nut, right? And almost no-one ever brings out the torque wrench for that task
    • Don't be ridiculous. "2-3 ugga duggas or one Oof. You have to use Oof on tie rods because you can't get an ugga dugga on there." Is not helping the guy at all.
    • I have done a lot of research before posting here and on gtruk forum. couldn't find anything. I have my gauges all part except the needle itself. the needle has a extremely small hole in the center, but the shaft going to the needle is extremely small and appears to have nothing to index it either. doesn't seem strong enough to simple pry or pull without damaging something. Already tried the old spoon trick on a extra triple meter I have from a gtt, but no luck. the center cap comes off easily but the hole in the meter face plate aren't big enough to get over the needle itself. figured this would be my best place to find someone who might have actually removed theirs. wonder if there is some type of small pin press tool to push the pin in while pulling the needle base off.
    • Ok...its taking me long enough to finally do this.  Feck financial security...heart disease will get me soon enough anyway So welcome to the garage..."Clem" Belsil80 has been running a 370Z in Super TT series. So after entering with him in last years Winton 300 i figured I  need my own car. Seems SAU Vic race cars need to be yellow....{tick} Reckon with enough motor i will be able to make up for the lack of talent and stay ahead of the 370Z... but the LS powered S13 and E36s are a ways up the road Aim is to have a car that doesnt stop or turn but has a bit of shed built motor with jam...maybe some cream  First step is getting this ex drift car log booked I am keeping faithful silver car. As the road-club car gets upgrades the race car wil get the sloppy seconds
×
×
  • Create New...