Dyno Result

[abcent]

Last friday I installed a Gates Racing timing belt, new idler& tensioner pulleys (and idler pulley bolt), aswel as a new Tomei adjustable exhaust cam gear (now set at 4degrees retarded).

Had the car re-tuned today to suit the new adjustment. Last dyno run made 248kw

now makes 260kw im stoked with the result! power comes on earlier, smother, and with a touch less boost (17 psi rather than 18). All my runs are on BP ultimate 98 octain fuel.

the cars basics:

Stock engine

pod filter

FMIC

AVO hi-flow turbo

big injectors

big fuel pump

adj fuel reg

microtech ecu

turbo back 80mm zaust & hiflow cat

cheers

Berin

[BAMR33]

Awesome result dude!!! High-flow turbo's really do benefit from an adjustable cam gear

[R33GOD]

Last friday I installed a Gates Racing timing belt, new idler& tensioner pulleys (and idler pulley bolt), aswel as a new Tomei adjustable exhaust cam gear (now set at 4degrees retarded).

Had the car re-tuned today to suit the new adjustment. Last dyno run made 248kw

now makes 260kw im stoked with the result! power comes on earlier, smother, and with a touch less boost (17 psi rather than 18). All my runs are on BP ultimate 98 octain fuel.

the cars basics:

Stock engine

pod filter

FMIC

AVO hi-flow turbo

big injectors

big fuel pump

adj fuel reg

tuneable ecu

turbo back 80mm zaust & hiflow cat

nice results mate but i think youd wanna post that in the rb25 dyno results page as this will probably get moved.

good luck with your future mods

[Spook's_Skyline]

cool, that is a good result

[CEF11E]

awsome results mate.

can't wait to install mine.

[abcent]

thanks guys. Im really happy with how its all worked. car is much more fun to drive as its more responsive now, power comes on earlier.

happy for this thread to be moved to the section more relevant.

[dead32]

you reakon it would be safe to adjust em yourself say to sydney kids spec for rb20 +2inlet and -4 exhaust? just wondering if its worth it if thats a good base then dyno it for a final quick adjustment.

[sIIgtst]

hey mate awesome result.

im after the roughly the same power and response as your car.

what sort of turbo are you running?

thanks.

[abcent]

I fitted the ex cam and set it to -4degrees myself. then took it an got it tuned on a dyno a few days later. so yeah....worked for me

sIIgtst: its a hi-flow from AVO turbos. Fitted it a few years ago.

[Dale FZ1]

I have to ask what appears obvious:

No hardware changes other than the adjustable gear?

What sort of tuning changes were made? fuel, spark, or fuel + spark? Were they necessary to make the cam timing work, or was there room for improvement prior to the tune?

How did you arrive at the 4deg retarded setting? ie what were you targeting. Were you chasing top end improvement, or response?

Reason I ask is that I have a high flow fitted and have been wading through the literature to find a worthwhile starting point. If I can achieve similar outcome then I will indeed be happy.

cheers

Dale

[abcent]

I have to ask what appears obvious:

No hardware changes other than the adjustable gear?

What sort of tuning changes were made? fuel, spark, or fuel + spark? Were they necessary to make the cam timing work, or was there room for improvement prior to the tune?

How did you arrive at the 4deg retarded setting? ie what were you targeting. Were you chasing top end improvement, or response?

Reason I ask is that I have a high flow fitted and have been wading through the literature to find a worthwhile starting point. If I can achieve similar outcome then I will indeed be happy.

cheers

Dale

all my mods are mentioned in the first post. engine is entirely stock & has never been pulled apart. stock bottom end, stock head & head gaskit, stock cams, stock maifolds etc etc....

to be honest....with the cam setting, i've just read through the forums and found that most people got the best results with it set -4degrees, but i was basically trying to achieve better low-mid range power, it also brought top end power which is a bonus. the changes made on the dyno were both fuel & spark(timing) to suit essentually the new exhaust cam set up.

[MANWHORE]

nice, looks like i have to spend more money. grrrrr

[GTshortie]

Abcent: Did you get your car dynoed at the same place as before (248rwkw)? If possible could you please post up your graph with 248rwkw for comparsion?

Looking at your new graph the AT:25 and IT:45 shows a big variance in temperatures.

Does the car feel like its got more power? taken it to the drag strip before&after(or you don't do drags) to compare results?

[abcent]

Abcent: Did you get your car dynoed at the same place as before (248rwkw)? If possible could you please post up your graph with 248rwkw for comparsion?

Looking at your new graph the AT:25 and IT:45 shows a big variance in temperatures.

Does the car feel like its got more power? taken it to the drag strip before&after(or you don't do drags) to compare results?

yes same dyno same tuner. the 248kw I got at autosalon a while back. the last time it was on the same dyno it only got 236kw....thats the red line one the graph for comparison.

red line - before blue line - after. I have no idea what the AT an IT means?? or how it relates?

As for the car, yes it definatly feels faster (has more power). Comes on boost around 500rpm earlier than before. No i havent taken it to the strip....I only got it tuned 2 days ago. but i will. My fastest prevoius time was 12.8 on street tyres (255/50/R16 M/T radials), that was with a 2.2 60ft an 113mph from memory. (only ever been to the 2 SAU drag days at hethcote park)

[Adriano]

AT and IT are Air temp and Intake temp, which are used by the dyno to increase or decrease the power number to account for atmospheric conditions. I think the point is that the only real way to accurately determine what gain was made is to do back to back runs, which you would do if the cam was dialled in on the dyno.

[WPN-O33]

Hey mate your results are worth taking notice of..I have basically the same mods to my car just different Hi-Flow, i have been keen about having cam gear changes for a while, my current power on 1bar boost is 222rwkw, so it looks like this mod is worth the while..

[CEF11E]

I installed mine lastnight.

The whole process only took 1 hour. this was done on an RB20 so may be different on an RB25.

the most difficult thing to do was get the left side bottom bolt of the timing belt cover! I did not have the right length extension bar.

I had the nastiest scare i have ever had working on cars.

I installed the cam gear aligned the belt and tensioned it. put the CAS support back on bolted the cas back on without the timing cover and started the car. everything fine. i double checked everything and was fine.

I checked the base timing and closed the bonnet and took the car for a drive. it felt fine so after a bit of a drive i gave it some stick in 2nd and at 6000rpm I heard a BANG and heard something drop on the road. I put the clutch in and put in in neutral and looked in the revision mirror and almont had a heart attack. There was a GAM GEAR rolling down the road!!! WTF!! the car was still idling fine. i got out and ran after the cam gear and picked it up. that's funny i thought it is the inlet cam gear that has come off (it was non adjustable factory) opened the bonnet and low and behold both gears were still there and bulted securely on.

I had made a big cock up. I left the old camgear next to the battery after installing the new one.

Anyway. lesson learned... ALLWAYS check for tools and parts before you close the bonnet.

[MANWHORE]

Cef, notice anyhting different? Is it hard to diy?

[Dale FZ1]

Is it hard to diy?

Basically you follow the same process as if changing a timing belt - because you remove the belt to install the gear.

Suggestion 1: use a timing light to check (and note) the base timing setting before removing the CAS. Then you are able to reliably return to that setting after reinstall so your IGN tune is unaffected. Using a paint pen to mark existing position is of limited value because your base setting will change after altering the gear from zero.

Suggestion 2: make sure you have access to a puller for the harmonic balancer - you will need to remove that in order to remove the lower cam belt cover to then access your belt tensioner

Suggestion 3: do the job when the engine is cold. Much easier on the hands when working

[CEF11E]

its not really a DIY. I have done it a few times and have the tools but it can be done if you have a puller and access.

sometimes you need to take out the radiator to get access