Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

***UPDATED***

Hey

I currently have For Sale some RARE and very hard to get XBOX games along with my XBOX System. Price's are located next to game

Grand Theft Auto - San Andreas - Euro Pal Version, This is the R Rated (Uncensored) Version of this game which were banned in Australia and replaced with Censored Versions. Only Played once, Great Conditon! $50.00

Narc - Euro Pal Version - This game was banned in Australia. Great Condition. $40.00

FIFA 06 - Perfect Condition. $30.00

If you need more info PM me

Please Note:

***XBOX System, PS2 System, GTA Double Pack Uncut, Leisure Suit Larry Uncut, Manhunt - ALL SOLD***

post-1053-1173825767.jpg

Edited by DR.ZOIDBERG
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158391-fs-rare-xbox-games/
Share on other sites

They sold it in the shops till it got banned so thats seems a pritty stupid rule

Um yeah i heard it is illegal to sell it in AUS, which apparently happened AFTER it got banned... which would explain it being illegal to sell it :P

but im not 100% on that...

Um yeah i heard it is illegal to sell it in AUS, which apparently happened AFTER it got banned... which would explain it being illegal to sell it :ninja:

but im not 100% on that...

Seems kinda strange.

Does any Admin want me to pull this game off??? I am happy to do so

So I am. I have no idea why too.

VERY VERY RARE, Cant get this in Australia. Collectors items. Works 100% on all Australian Pal Systems

Edited by DR.ZOIDBERG

GTS-4SOME been trying to send you PM but I get this error msg everytime now

This message can not be sent because the recipient has their personal messenger disabled or they are in a member group not allowed to use the personal messenger.

Original Post UPDATED :laugh:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nissan/Pitwork is fine stuff. HKS is just marketing wank. I personally wouldn't do the idler if it is already new. If it looks and feels fine, it is fine. But as D says - it's cheap to add it to the job. The water pump ditto. Even more so. If it show no signs of problems, then it is nearly new - leave it.
    • 1. I can't see a location on your profile but you do mention GBP so I'll assume you are in UK. In Australia, CBC make a timing belt kit with the gears and idler and tension bearing and that is what I use without any problems. I'm sure OEM or HKS are also fine but I wouldn't pay extra for HKS over anything else. 2. Yes, I would always change the idler and tensioner and the stud and bolt that hold them in. Assuming they were all done last time it is highly unlikely you would have a problem, but they are very cheap to add to the job considering the time it will take anyway.  3. No, you don't need to lock them as such (I think that is more for engines without timing marks), but you should make sure they move as little as possible once the belt is off as you can hit pistons on valves if they move too far. As always, make sure you line it all up to top dead centre with the timing marks aligned before you take the old belt off.
    • How to wreak havoc at a bogans party... Swap out the goon bag hanging from the clothes line with oil bag... Watch chaos ensue during Goon of Fortune....
    • Hey everyone,   I’m looking for some advice on replacing the timing belt on my RB25DET Neo-powered 1998 Skyline. The engine was fully built about five years ago, including a fresh timing belt, water pump, and other essentials. However, since then, the car has only covered around 2,000–3,000 miles. It’s currently making around 650hp.   Even though the mileage is low, I know timing belts have a time-based lifespan too, and most recommendations suggest changing them every five to six years or 50,000 miles. Since I’m at that time mark, I’d rather not take any risks and plan to swap it out soon.   A few things I’d like to hear opinions on: 1. What’s the best belt for this setup? Should I go with an OEM Nissan belt, or is the HKS fine-tune a better choice given the power level? 2. Would you bother replacing the idler pulley and tensioner at the same time, or only if they show wear? 3. When swapping the belt, is it necessary to lock the cam and crank gears in place, or is lining up the timing marks enough? I’ve seen different approaches, and I want to make sure I do it right.   The water pump was changed with the rebuild and isn’t run off the timing belt, so I don’t see a need to replace it again. I just want to make sure I approach this the right way.   Any insight would be much appreciated. Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...