Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

Ever since I have owned my R33 the drivers side electric motor hasn't worked, and I noticed today that the de-fogging function on the glass doesn't work either. Passengers side is fine though..

Have had a look in the fusebox but it all seems in tact. Any ideas people?

:D

chicane

:burnout:

  • 2 weeks later...

I had a look on the weekend, i can remove the mirror from the door, (pop off the plastic cover and undo the 3 screws), but how do i get in behind the plate glass? i tried popping it off but I didn't wanna bust the glass ;)

chicane, i have the same prob with my passanger side mirror which made a bad noise when folding out once then never folded out again... but still folds in, i just pull it out by hand, drivers side perfect. I've also tryed pulling it apart and got to the point where u are, ive been meaning to ask nissan for a look at the photos of it, also just curious about the mirror defogging, do you have a switch to turn this on ?

cheers...lenno

The mirror glass should just pop off - you have to kinda pull quite hard, but it does eventually come off...

There are several screws holding the motor unit in place, just undo them and then you should be able to remove the entire unit from the cover.

Dave, tnx for your reply.. I'll have another look tonight to see if I can pop it out..

Lenno, Probably suggest you do what Demon Dave has suggested, Have a look at the motor.. I'll take some pics with the digi cam may be able to help ya.

As for the defogging, I read in a Skyline Manual that when the rear demister is put on, the side mirrors have defogging built into them.. and just the rear demister button to the right of the hazard switch turns it on.. On a real cold/foggy morning if I park on my lawn, the side mirrors get fogged up - The passenger side one clears really quickly but the drivers side remains the same..

Cheers

Hi Lenno,

I have the manual in front of me at the moment: It's the JPNZ R33 Skyline Drivers Manual.. (mate lent it to me, was in his glovebox when he got the car). Page 57:

"Heated Mirrors & Rear Window De-Fogger"

The super sonic mirror will heat up to defog the mirrors. Push button, shown to operate super sonic option first mirror will vibrate to remove any water from the mirrors then heater will switch on. If mirror gets old and scratched and isnt working sufficiently contact nissan to have specified mirror replaced. Dont clean mirrors with an abrasive cleaning material"

also

Pg 51.

"Heated Door Mirror"

When the Rear De-Fogger is pressed the Heated Mirror System will automatically turn on to melt away any ice on the mirrors. This system will automatically turn itself offafter 15 minutes or you can press the Rear De-Fogger switch again to turn off the system manually. Do not try to use the Power Mirror Function while the mirrors have ice on them, always use the heated mirror system first."

Hope this helps!!

chicane

PS. I have a feeling the reason the mirror isnt working properly is because it was bodged by the compliance people when they changed it to a flat glass mirror.. Grrrrrrrrrr :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...