Jump to content
SAU Community

It Just Stopped

subzeroR33

By subzeroR33,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

subzeroR33 Mentor

subzeroR33

Posted
Posted

Hey all, was driving along and my car started running rough so i pulled over, it sounded like i was running a huge set of cams. I turned it off and waited a while and then started it again it ran rough and thenit smoothed out so i drove it slowly home and parked it

I then started it again and it was running like shit and then it just died on, and now it wont start.

I change the fuel filter but that was just wishful thinking.

What do you think it could be.

It runs a Ltx 12 microtech so it has no AFM.

Thanks guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158467-it-just-stopped/
Share on other sites
Big Rizza Mentor

Big Rizza

Posted
Posted

Does the engine turn over? Electrical fault? Charge in the battery? If electrical fault is messing with the ignition, the engine may be dropping a cylinder or two causing it to run rough? Dunno, just guessing from the info you've given.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158467-it-just-stopped/#findComment-2942156
Share on other sites
subzeroR33 Mentor

subzeroR33

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Does the engine turn over? Electrical fault? Charge in the battery? If electrical fault is messing with the ignition, the engine may be dropping a cylinder or two causing it to run rough? Dunno, just guessing from the info you've given.

Yeah i know mate it could be anything its a hard one, just wondering if this has happened to someone before.

No the engine wont turn over, but i have ignition and fuel.

And another thing it had a wierd burning smell coming from the engine so maybe it is electrical.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158467-it-just-stopped/#findComment-2942241
Share on other sites
dead32 Mentor

dead32

Posted
Posted

are you running a plug and play adaptor with the microtech? ive had this problem once, car did same shit, id say the cylinder are full of fuel and it wont start, take the plugs out and or make the injectors not pulse, then crank crank crank it for ages till it clears, best bet is to take plugs out, then goto your ecu and make sure all the pins are in place and theyre touching all the time.. i.e wiggle the harness and make sure it doesnt cut out....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158467-it-just-stopped/#findComment-2942555
Share on other sites
subzeroR33 Mentor

subzeroR33

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Thanks for all the advice so far i will try it all tomorrow.

I was just driving the car normal around 3-4000rpm going up a hill.

^^ i run a MSD ignition with a Ford coil pack.

Edited by subzeroR33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158467-it-just-stopped/#findComment-2942689
Share on other sites
subzeroR33 Mentor

subzeroR33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Its all fixed, checked the spark plugs they were covered in a sticky oily black sludge.

I didnt think to check them as they were irridiums put in about 12,000 km, they are spose to last 100 000km.

Anyway i will be saving my money in future and just buying the normal copper plugs for around $20 not $120.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158467-it-just-stopped/#findComment-2959444
Share on other sites
subzeroR33 Mentor

subzeroR33

Posted
  • Author
Posted
you're not worried as to why they were covered in oily sludge?

Well the microtech would have something to do with it, the injectors just flood the thing on start up so i spose over time they just foul up and probly to much upper cylinder lubricant.

Will keep a close eye on the plugs this time if they foul up to quick then i will need to fix this problem.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158467-it-just-stopped/#findComment-2965356
Share on other sites
drf76 Collaborator

drf76

Posted
Posted (edited)
It was playing up again today, does this sound like an issue with the coils.

It misses and then comes good, short time later it missesd then comes good. It is really shiting me now.

check your crank angle sensor plug might be coming loose or not plugged in properly or there is a short in the wiring, i had similar problem on my old mans 32 gtr where plug seemed to be plugged in but wasnt fully clipped in, it caused rough running and a really bad miss. I checked the plug and clipped it in properly and problem was solved. Also check if you have a good connection at the battery/ground to ecu is very important. And yes it could also could be a coil starting to break down especially if you are using a ford one :ninja:

Edited by drf76
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158467-it-just-stopped/#findComment-2968679
Share on other sites
subzeroR33 Mentor

subzeroR33

Posted
  • Author
Posted
check your crank angle sensor plug might be coming loose or not plugged in properly or there is a short in the wiring, i had similar problem on my old mans 32 gtr where plug seemed to be plugged in but wasnt fully clipped in, it caused rough running and a really bad miss. I checked the plug and clipped it in properly and problem was solved. Also check if you have a good connection at the battery/ground to ecu is very important. And yes it could also could be a coil starting to break down especially if you are using a ford one :)

I will check it out. Im also getting a knocking sound from the injectors. May be a fuel thing to.

Yeah i know Ford coils :ninja:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158467-it-just-stopped/#findComment-2968713
Share on other sites
drf76 Collaborator

drf76

Posted
Posted
I will check it out. Im also getting a knocking sound from the injectors. May be a fuel thing to.

Yeah i know Ford coils :ninja:

haha ford, i work for them but anyway yer could be injectors but when you said your spark plugs are pretty bad you tend to think its spark related, but you gotta somewhere, hope you find out what it is soon with out too much hassle :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158467-it-just-stopped/#findComment-2968723
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • pez5
      ST Coilovers by KW SUIT Nissan Z33 Infinity G35 Coupe

      By pez5 · Posted

      PRICE  : $1400 LOCATION   : NSW Central Coast FIT  :  All Nissan 350Z type Z33 and Infinity G35 Coupe. See delivery note. Hi, brand new, unused, still in the box.  ($1850.00 is what i paid ) My bad luck !!! I thought my right front  Bilstein was cactus so i bought the ST 's to replace all.  Turns out the right front is fine ( loose mounting after service  by a well known importer of Bilsteins ) So im selling the ST's. They are made by KW ( no intro needed ) . Iam on the Central Coast and im willing to meet up in Sydney metro, within reason and Newcastle.
    • WMDC35
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By WMDC35 · Posted

      Yep, yeah would need to do the flywheel although the 6 bolt NA clutch can handle a 20de if just wants to replace the stocker.
    • GTSBoy
      braided lines for the turbos

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No it's fine. Heat sleeve is a thing. With oil running through it it is unlikely. Engine off heat soak can be a thing though. There is no way that you have a leak through the hose. That has pressure behind it and any small hole will turn into a large one in very short order. It is so much more likely to be leaking from the connection.
    • GTSBoy
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Really? That's piss weak. I didn't know they hobbled the shitboxen that badly. OK. So probs need to buy a flywheel too. But that's not too bad.
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Hi all. I already posted some newbie-ish questions here and there but this will be my first "big" post. Last summer I went and fulfilled a kind of childhood wish, because I just thought I needed this experience in my life no matter what. The car I bought is a mildly modded 1995 BCNR33 Vspec. It was repainted to a metallic orange color all around and it had all windows reseated. Not so well done black respray in the trunk and a metallic black in the engine bay. From outside it looks very nice except for a minor paint error on the roof and the rear spats needing new adhesive tape. The inside is pretty clean and no broken plastics, missing or faded buttons. Even the adjustable mirrors and trunk antenna work like a charm. Despite a moderately long list of issues I don't (yet) regret buying this car. Most mechanical problems are just due to age, like worn rubbers here and there. The underside sadly has lots of corrosion, especially to the back. It looks like it either has been driven in the winter for a while or it lived near the saltwater in Japan, the rust is nothing terrible but it'll require to be looked after. Mostly panel gaps and all the mounted components underneath are a bit crusty, but I don't think anywhere has progressed so badly that there's going to be holes. Front right jacking rail is crushed and needs some care so it doesn't develop into a rust crater at some point. Worst part is definitely the strut towers. I thought they looked fine but after taking off the strut bar I noticed that it actually started bulging up on the passenger side. Probably would have passed on the car or negotiated down by some thousand Euros more if I had noticed this before buying, but here we are. Trunk area also has signs that there was a water leak to the interior once but nothing too crazy, I guess lots of Skylines had this at some point. As for the list of (known) issues, I'll try to make this compact. I hope the coloring is self explanatory. Mechanical: -Various busted or soon-to-be busted rubber bushings and ball joints. Will replace ball joints with OEM or better and bushings with polyurethane where possible. -Shaking steering wheel at above 80kph -downshift from 5th to 4th is a bit crunchy unless I rev-match, might just try to renew the shifter assembly, but it's not a priority issue -tailshaft centre bearing could use a replacement, is it worth going 1-piece tailshaft as it doesn't look too fresh all around? Chassis: -underbody corrosion on many spots and in hollow spaces, needs to be treated -corrosion on many bolts, hoses, lines, suspension components, subframes, will be treated when replacing of the bushings is needed as time goes on -strut tower top panels and some of the surrounding panels are rusty, so needs fixing. Will look into doing this with a buddy in the winter, otherwise bite the bullet and pay a professional -driver side door is misaligned to the body and needs to go a slight bit more inwards -both door windows are misaligned and have an airgap where the window meets the door at the B pillar -The Aerocatch latches for the bonnet have locks but no keys, need new keys. -driver side door window is kind of gritty and could use a polish -damaged jacking rails and front frame rails, from people lifting the car the wrong way, might have this fixed by a bodyshop Electrical: -Nismo tachometer is just bouncing and displaying nonsense, supposedly worked fine when the stock ECU was still in the car -An old Greddy boost controller sits on the dash which will be removed as it servers no purpose anymore. -a led segment rpm gauge is on the steering column, will probably also be (re-)moved once the Nismo tacho is working correctly -there was an attempt to make the sound system better by the previous owner but it was just inducing noise all the time, ripped out the amp and filters in the back, no music for now -trunk antenna goes up as long as the radio is on regardless of the mode, I want it to only rise if I choose Radio specifically or per switch -3rd brake light is a bit dimmer than the taillights but everything was converted to LEDs so mabye now it just seems dimmer? -reverse light flickers, have to test if that behavior changes when I fiddle with the gear stick. Hope I can get around changing the switch. -Left side taillight, blinker section has minor water intake and is humid after washing. Other side has a hole in it, probably for that exact reason. I'll probably reseal them entirely and plug the holes. Engine: -minor coolant drips on one or the other hose -rear turbo leaks oil onto the exhaust making the car essentially undriveable due to fire hazard -Oil filter relocation kit has an oil drip at the Dash lines, will probably make a new connection there and tighten real good and pray -throttle body assembly is slightly stuck for the first throttle pedal input after sitting for a while I'm always open to suggestions and advice from more experienced people, I'm sure half of this list is easily dealt with and just requires some time and effort to sort out properly. Once I have some proper pictures of the car I will post some in this thread, I just have to remember to take some more once I get the chance to. Will post updates when I have news on anything, I want to try to keep this thread as kind of a logbook as well. Ultimately my goal for this car is to just enjoy it. An engine rebuild is probably going to happen sometime as well, because it is old after all. It will never be fully new again, I am just not that rich. But I want it to look good, work well and not rot away while I drive it. I'm probably gonna spend a lot of money on this journey, hopefully not an unreasonable amount.
×
×
  • Create New...