Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My bonet has etched mark on it, apparently was resprayed before I bought it. Also a few deep stone chips.

The body stripe also reveals that the left rear quarter panel may have been resprayed as well as the passenger doors.

Also a deep scratch 8cm long in the boot, not easy to touch up.

I also want to put in Type-M factory option front bumper + side skirts so it goes......

- $800 for fitting front bumper and side skirts and paint within this week...

- $1400 to repaint the bonnet + both front guards + extra $600 if I want the type-M bumper as well. Wait a month to get enough money for it.

- $3500 for full body respray. Wait 2 months to get enough money for it.

You guys reckon which one the best way to go ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15852-paintwork-3-choices/
Share on other sites

This quote is from a workshop I know that have high quality job. They did a panel respray on my previous car and I couldn't spot the repair, very professional. They are only 2 blocks away from where I live so that's a bonus point, I can just walk up there to pick up the car when it's finished.

If you know someone else in Melbourne who can do a top quality respray for much less than $3500, let me know. And I mean top quality, no dodgy cheap jobs.

hehehe...

who said my car is black????

my car is wine red, so even if I bought your bumper, I will need a $800 respray anyway.....

and I already have the bumper and side skirts already.

so I can't buy another one.

I will have a standard (non type M) bumper in burgundy for sale in a few weeks after I put on this type M bumper on.

well F#%k you for caring but i dont think it would cost to get a standard type m front bar sprayed and fitted for $600 if you bought my bar for $150 resprayed shouldnt cost you more than $100-$150 thats $300 but u know what you can get f%#cked cause i aint selling your poor arss nothing!

hmmmm seems that I've got three votes for $3500 full professional respray.

maybe that's the way to go to ensure that the paints are all uniform throughout the whole body... rather than a patch here and there? beside that body stripe looks a bit like the 80s anyway.

I have been around a few spray paint joints here in adelaide and asked for a cheap blow over that looks good.. Basically nothing fancy just nice and clean looking.

oh that will be $5000... WTF i asked for a cheap job....

I have had 3 quotes and all have been 5grand...

bit of tension felt in this thread

ease up guys!

i think save ur money for the full job. $3500 is a good price.

other wise you will end up paying more in the long run when you want to get other parts painted too.

Just a suggestion. If you are about to fit a m-spec front bar to your car, do what i have done to mine (attachment below), so that is you decide to get a fmic in the future you will have full air flow to it.

Take it to a plastic welder (i took mine to a bumper repair shop, in Airport West) tell him to cut the middle bar off (the one that supports the number plate) and use the off cuts to seal the remaining cut outs.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you are keeping the current calipers you need to keep the current disc as the spacing of the caliper determines the disc diameter. Have you trial fitted the GTS brakes fit on a GTSt hub or is this forward planning? There could be differences in caliper mount spacing, backing plate and even hub shape that could cause an issue.
    • Hi there I have a r33 gts with 4 stud small brakes, I'm going to convert to 5 stud but keep the small brakes, what size rotor would I need?
    • First up, I wouldn't use PID straight up for boost control. There's also other control techniques that can be implemented. And as I said, and you keep missing the point. It's not the ONE thing, it's the wrapping it up together with everything else in the one system that starts to unravel the problem. It's why there are people who can work in a certain field as a generalist, IE a IT person, and then there are specialists. IE, an SQL database specialist. Sure the IT person can build and run a database, and it'll work, however theyll likely never be as good as a specialist.   So, as said, it's not as simple as you're thinking. And yes, there's a limit to the number of everything's in MCUs, and they run out far to freaking fast when you're designing a complex system, which means you have to make compromises. Add to that, you'll have a limited team working on it, so fixing / tweaking some features means some features are a higher priority than others. Add to that, someone might fix a problem around a certain unrelated feature, and that change due to other complexities in the system design, can now cause a new, unforseen bug in something else.   The whole thing is, as said, sometimes split systems can work as good, and if not better. Plus when there's no need to spend $4k on an all in one solution, to meet the needs of a $200 system, maybe don't just spout off things others have said / you've read. There's a lot of misinformation on the internet, including in translated service manuals, and data sheets. Going and doing, so that you know, is better than stating something you read. Stating something that has been read, is about as useful as an engineering graduate, as all they know is what they've read. And trust me, nearly every engineering graduate is useless in the real world. And add to that, if you don't know this stuff, and just have an opinion, maybe accept what people with experience are telling you as information, and don't keep reciting the exact same thing over and over in response.
    • How complicated is PID boost control? To me it really doesn't seem that difficult. I'm not disputing the core assertion (specialization can be better than general purpose solutions), I'm just saying we're 30+ years removed from the days when transistor budgets were in the thousands and we had to hem and haw about whether there's enough ECC DRAM or enough clock cycles or the interrupt handler can respond fast enough to handle another task. I really struggle to see how a Greddy Profec or an HKS EVC7 or whatever else is somehow a far superior solution to what you get in a Haltech Nexus/Elite ECU. I don't see OEMs spending time on dedicated boost control modules in any car I've ever touched. Is there value to separating out a motor controller or engine controller vs an infotainment module? Of course, those are two completely different tasks with highly divergent requirements. The reason why I cite data sheets, service manuals, etc is because as you have clearly suggested I don't know what I'm doing, can't learn how to do anything correctly, and have never actually done anything myself. So when I do offer advice to people I like to use sources that are not just based off of taking my word for it and can be independently verified by others so it's not just my misinterpretation of a primary source.
    • That's awesome, well done! Love all these older Datsun / Nissans so rare now
×
×
  • Create New...