Jump to content
SAU Community

Different Years Of R32

Nth
 Share

Recommended Posts

Nth Community Regular

Nth

Posted
Posted

I'm just wanting to get some of peoples thoughts on here. What would people rather be driving a r32 93 m-spec or a 92 m spec? What if the 92 was in better condition than the 93? Would you just buy the 93 because you can say its the latest r32 you can buy? The good thing is the lights are updated from the 89-91 so there like a newer version of the 32. Or would you not care about the year of the car?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158753-different-years-of-r32/
Share on other sites
MANWHORE Grand Master

MANWHORE

Posted
Posted

this has been done to death. have a search. also, this is hardly forced induction.

I say condition matters. Age also matters. if a car is 89 v 93, at 4 years old, unless if it's parked in a bubble, it will be exposed to the environment for longer so it'll ahve more rust etc.

r32line Mentor

r32line

Posted
Posted
they didnt have door bar thingies... u know.. those things.

Reinforcements which come in handy during a possible side impact...

I guess if you look at what what car I have there are no points for which one I would take..

But in all seriousness, I prefer the second generation of the R32.. if it is a 92 or 93 is of no real difference, except u can say it was the last year that car was made if u had the 93...

SKY031 Grand Master

SKY031

Posted
Posted
type m*

:happy:

You're wasting your time bacons, multiple people have tried telling Nth time and time again that there's no such thing, and that it's actually "type m", but if the information hasn't been absorbed yet..

.....I give you points for trying though :laugh:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • joshuaho96
      Yet another clutch question

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      It's excellent but I'm still breaking it in so I'm not 100% sure where it'll end up. I would say it's about 15% heavier than stock and the smoothness of the slip zone is quite progressive but you need to be a little patient compared to stock or it'll bite hard and stall. Stock I got away with absolutely horrid clutch control. Like I said before I couldn't even tell where the clutch would grab when it was stock so releasing way too quickly without enough revs it would just slip and the revs would drop lower than ideal but that would be the end of it. Currently there's a bit of a nasty clutch judder if I don't apply enough revs + find the exact wrong point of the slip point in the clutch pedal but it feels like it's slowly resolving as I drive it more. I would not recommend the competition clutch unless you really need the extra clamp force. I think this clutch combined with the Nismo operating cylinder is going to be exactly what I want. Enough bite that you need to remember the release point to avoid stalling or rough shifts, but progressive enough that it's not hard to drive by any means and not heavy at all. I tried a "super single" clutch on my friend's 997.2 Turbo 6MT and that was absolutely horrid. It runs an electrohydraulic power steering pump for the clutch power boost so there's zero feedback in the clutch pedal and there was a horrific clutch shudder well after break-in due to the lack of marcel springs or hub springs in the friction disk. It felt like the slip zone was the thickness of a single toe twitch as well so it was almost impossible to avoid stalling it unless you gave it a ton of revs and just dumped the clutch instead of trying to be smooth with it. I was terrified of pulling out in front of traffic. I have also tried some kind of "super single" on an EK9 and that makes this twin plate Coppermix look like a stock clutch. Releasing the clutch pedal even slightly too quickly feels like you're getting rear-ended. The pedal is extremely heavy as well and there's no vacuum assist like the GTR.
    • GTSBoy
      AC Compressor

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, well I was probably way underguessing the $300 figure anyway. Just multiplied a "normal" by 4 for the purposes of pointing out it's not cheap, particularly if it has to be repeated.
    • joshuaho96
      AC Compressor

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      We have an alignment shop out here that does what you're talking about but he wants like 800 AUD a pop. DIY is "cheaper" but once you start accounting for the value of your time I'm not sure it's worth it.
    • The Bogan
      Drag radials and rims, Sydney

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Sold
    • The Bogan
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By The Bogan · Posted

      The main catch phrase for any car is "the eye of the beholder", and "personal tastes and preferences" And as for the plastic "flares", I honestly think they look cheap and tacky, and I cannot see them aging well, maybe if they were body colour they might look better to my eyes, but, I would still prefer it the were more like the older WRX STI models that had the wider body metal panels In saying all this 5hit, I wouldn't buy a new WRX again, even if it had the wide body metal panels    
×
×
  • Create New...