Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Im going to get my suspension fitted early next week - got the whiteline f & r sway bars and front castor adjuster - what sort of settings should I say to them? Ive got the bilstein shocks and white line springs package already fitted - need these new mods to work well, car is used mainly on street but with track days around once a month.

Any suggestions?

Cheers!!

Chris

I'd start with soft/soft on the sway bars and work from there. If it under steers, tighten the rear. If it over steers tighten the front.

If you have a gtst then I'd go for as much caster as you can get without the tyres scrubbing when you turn the wheel. I go even side to side with no ill effects on the street.

yep. ask for max castor they can get. as for bars, me personally would start with front to full soft and rear to 1 step up from soft. :D

rear is a piece of cake to get to, just jack up the back and you're away.

Front requires removal of the wheels to get at the links easily (atleast in a 32) and it can be a little awkward getting the link in and out of the bar.

As the baron has eluded to, you'll probably find the car under steers with both bars at soft initially and so you will be tightening the rear up.

tyres - true! :laugh:

On the street, they hold well as for 1. I hardly take the car out and 2. no point pushing it too hard!

However I'll most likely be using those federals 595RS's which has been posted in this forum section!

Thanks again :)

Chris

done and done :(

Car feels fantastic!

They put the fronts on medium and rears on hard

and max castor

had to go through Galston Gorge (NSW people would know this road!) the other day - car never felt so alive!

Still going to take a bit of getting used to - as I did find, got on the gas a wee bit early and the rear stepped out - but that was silly anyway :ninja:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Been so long since I have been here,seeing SDU is dead. I had that problem on my gtr in 2006 but luckily there was no engine damage,it was inspected by Hytech Engines,race bearings and extended crank collar put in and that was about it. Hopefully yours is sorted now.
    • Would it not be cheaper to just spray nitrous?
    • I've got cash, it's the NA LOLS I'm after now Plus, I've had a few boosted cars, and it is soooo easy to turn a reliable car into a unreliable drivetrain eating money pit monster by just paging up and chasing more My power goal for the NC is to try for a reliable naturally aspirated 150kw or 200hp atw (I'm old, and the old naturally aspirated cherry of 100hp per litre is a goal that I would like to hit), no more is really needed for what I use the car for,  so a additional 5kw is what I'm chasing now,  that 5kw is about $3k away, I think....
    • I dunno. I just go off what I know works. On RB20, the idle switch meant something to the ECU and the potentiometer was ignored. In Nistune, with the switch unplugged, you could bridge the terminals in the loom connector and see IDLE come on and off. Not so by moving the pot. The R32 RB20 ECU and the 26 ECU both look like this. Sure there is the "throttle sensor" (pot) on pin 38, and also sure, the idle switch is also directly wired to the TCU, whereas the pot is only directly conected to the ECU. But I am sure that the throttle position from the pot is passed to the TCU across the data bus on pins 21, 22 & 31. Maybe the ECU likes to know throttle position, but it sure as hell doesn't use it to determine the idle condition. Meanwhile, on the later engines, like the 33 25DET and my Neo, you remove the TPS and move the pot to-from the 0.45V position, and IDLE comes and goes in Nistune. No throttle switch on the ECU diagram. Just the pot.
    • So, good news and bad news Bad news first: The intake plenum is lost in the mail apparently, I haven't paid for it yet, and MX5 Mania are still chasing it up, farking 'Merica postal service  Good news: Any retune will be free if and when it turns up,  I'm still keen for them to throw it on The car goes noticeably better, with only the typical initial take off thingie from a choppy cam and manual transmission, but giving it just a little more RPM than before gives it a smooth take off (and hour or so of peak hour traffic sorted that little skill out) Car made around 145kwatw & 225Nm (Intake may get me to 150kw, maybe....🤣) Weirdly, 145kwatw is the same max power that my standard 2015 WRX STI made a few years ago The cam really comes alive from around 3.5k and keeps making power and holds it flatish all the way to 7k, whereas before torque would drop hard around at 4.5k Drive home was sadly in peak hour, although I did get a little clean air here and there to wind out 1st and 2nd a little bit, and whilst the gains aren't anything for the "boosted boys" to be impressed at, the thing is a blast to drive The sound in the vid is poor, as it is in a undercover yard at work, but, outside, in the wild, it sounds awesomeballs to my ears with all the choppyness I consider it money very well spent for the outcome  Cam specs for reference (Basically the biggest you can fit with stock pistons) 20250417_171807.mp4   LOL, I don't think I will ever grow up  
×
×
  • Create New...