Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Update to Group Buy 18 orders: 7 orders received now!

1- Birth for R32 Gtst rear rotors (payment cleared)

2- VSPEC-33 for R33 GTR rotors (payment cleared)

3- 2630GTS for R32 Gtst rear (payment cleared)

4- GTR32GUS for R32 GTR early model full set (payment cleared)

5- Tuan for RX8 redstuff pad (payment to cleared)

6- Simmo195 for R33 Gtst front (waiting for payment to clear)

7- gibbau for R32 Gtst rotors (waiting for payment to clear)

  • Replies 490
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Update to Group Buy 18 orders: 8 orders received now!

1- Birth for R32 Gtst rear rotors (payment cleared)

2- VSPEC-33 for R33 GTR rotors (payment cleared)

3- 2630GTS for R32 Gtst rear (payment cleared)

4- GTR32GUS for R32 GTR early model full set (payment cleared)

5- Tuan for RX8 redstuff pad (payment to cleared)

6- Simmo195 for R33 Gtst front (payment cleared)

7- gibbau for R32 Gtst rotors (payment cleared)

8- r33line for R33 Gtst grooved rotors & pads (payment cleared)

GB 18 submitted.. all according to plan...

From the last time I spoke to RDA it's about 9 weeks from the week of 2nd of August...

So let's see... that would be another 4-5 weeks from now...

Hi, orders submitted so hopefully they will all arrive by mid next week the latest (if you all didn't miss a delivery due to not being home, etc).

Break squeal can also be caused by pads, not only rotors, but things get worse when rotor or pads are badly worn, so see how you go...

Hi

Dont know if this is still going, i jsut read the first post and the last one.

Can you please give me prices via PM on..

1. R32 GTS-t/Z32 300ZXTT: F=909S 280mm RRP $170, R=908S 297mm RRP $190 (Front can be used for S15 Silvias)

3. R33 GTS-t/R34 GT non turbo: F=7693S 296mm RRP $305, R=908S 297mm RRP $190

7. R32 GTS-t/Z32 300ZXTT: F=909G 280mm RRP $305, R=908G 297mm RRP $285 (Front can be used for S15 Silvias)

9. R33 GTS-t/R34 GT non turbo: F=7693G 296mm RRP $465, R=908G 297mm RRP $285

All for the FRONT rotors only please..

Also would it be ok to order blanks or only come predrilled?

Just sussing out which brake setup to use.. thank you.

Break squeal can also be caused by pads, not only rotors, but things get worse when rotor or pads are badly worn, so see how you go...

My current rotors have sort of got circular lines running around them.. they feel bumpy when running my finger up and down. The front break pads are new Lucas's, they were put on during the RWC before I bought the car - so it may well be the pads.

I will be replacing the pads if the problem does not go away after installing the rotors.

My current rotors have sort of got circular lines running around them.. they feel bumpy when running my finger up and down. The front break pads are new Lucas's, they were put on during the RWC before I bought the car - so it may well be the pads.

I will be replacing the pads if the problem does not go away after installing the rotors.

Sounds like both rotors and pad problem. If your rotor is healthy, you can have it machined nicely and flat surface.

I had a problem with the old std rotors (93 gtst) which caused steering vibration and squeal, which was fixed by machining the rotors and putting new pads in.

I probably could of got them machined, but figured I may as well just upgrade as I was going to eventually anyway. I'm not getting any vibration (not yet anyway), only squealing.

Why do you say pad problem as well? Brake pads are less than 2 weeks old? Time will tell I guess! I'll invest in some anti-squeal stuff before replacing pads, see how that goes.

I didn't know the condition of pads you have right now... maybe the pad shim is worn out, or when an old pad shim is being reused it may caused all sort of noises, I was told so, as the shim is to ensure pads sits flatly against the rotor and absorb any noises or vibration.

But give your rotors a machining and see how it goes... I had slight groove (not bad) on the rear one and that one was the one I had squeal on, so could be the rotors after all.

I'll check the part number list, if you can confirm that the diameter the same with 350Z front & rear then they should be ok.

Remember that the 350Z has the track version with bigger rotors and brakes (I believe) so this may be the same with V35 Premium coupe with bigger brakes too...

GB19 is going on now, got 1-2 orders so far...

the v35 had a few iterations

the 03-04 coupe had normal spec and a "track" spec which was not related to the premium package. the "track" spec was offered on manual models as an upgrade and included the brembe package. the rest of the entire range had the same normal-spec package

the 05+ coupe no longer offered brembo but had a larger brake setup

so it would be the 03-04 coupe "non-brembo" setup which is what would work

i believe the equivalent in the DBA brand is:

4000 series

front part# DBA 4954 (296mm x 24mm)

rear part# DBA 4574 (292mm x 16mm)

according to the DBA website, the part number is the same for the skyline and 350z standard/touring model 2003-2005

i'm not sure how to find out if its the same with the RDA range so i was hoping you could help :D

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would paint match the whole thing to avoid unwanted attention  I had a similar bonnet, paint matched, on my old R33 GTST, but mine was a fibreglass jobbie made by Blitz in QLD, they work extremely well for radiator efficiency and under bonnet temps
    • Does anyone run this kit with factory plenum? Does the adapter and bosch tb fit under factory strut brace? I wanted to get this setup before going forward facing manifold. Thanks
    • small update time, after always wanting a "cool" looking bonnet for my car and always struggling to find one for the series 2 that i liked and wasn't an insane amount of money. Saw one i liked on RHDjapan from D-speed in Japan the price was very good for a carbon bonnet so good infact i was a little unsure how much i trusted it, decided to bite the bullet and with the help of jesse streeter in not long at all it was at my door. Once it was delivered i ran in from work and quickly unboxed it and to my surprise the quality was actually pretty good i quickly removed the old bonnet and placed on the new one to test it out and even the fitment wasnt too bad at all. Then decided to paint the little grille in the bonnet black to stop it sticking out so much.   I decided to not mess around with the hood latch and just install some aero catch hood pins, having never installed them before did some YouTube university classes and i was good to go. fair to say it is not a fun job at all from making brackets so the pins sit nicely and actually cutting through the bonnet but also being very scared of cutting the holes too big it took wayyyy longer than i would like to admit but finally got it there. Then it was time for a quick test drive to ensure the latches actually worked and thankfully the bonnet looked very stable. I still think paint matching the bonnet and leaving just the part that sticks up as carbon would help make it all look alot neater as im not sure how i feel about all that carbon on a very fridge white car but will leave it as is and see how i feel with time.  
    • I think it's bound to happen, you finally get it all perfect, and bam, something will happen. I took a while to get a Commodore rear quarter repaired where a P Plater clipped it. Two days after getting it back, Sarah wiped it out on a concrete pillar in an underground car park... This is why I take forever to repair them, it stretches how long until it gets bent again... 😛
    • Nah, not really responsible for that little fiasco, but I'm still pissed at myself for writing off my 86, or when I reversed my VX into a pole just before selling it, but, meh, 5hit happens to stuff, all it takes is a slight distraction, and life is full of distractions, and "dooh" moments   
×
×
  • Create New...