Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just serviced my R32 GTS-t gearbox and diff.

I used Redline shockproof gear oil, expensive but the best. Can't remember the weight, I think 40w.

On the R32 I needed 2 liters for the gearbox and 2.5 liters for the diff. This sucks as they sell the redline in 4 liter bottle. I topped up .5 ltr with motul gear oil from 1 ltr bottle.

Unless you have a hoist it is a bitch of a job!!

I took mine to a mech friend and they did both gearbox and diff for $35 as I supplied oil.

My diff was super noisy and is on the way out but much better now with new oil.

It's not worth the drama of lying on the floor with gear oil in your face for $40.

Fuel filter is a throw away item. I replace mine every 10000kms. No inspection or cleaning possible as sealed unit. I think you can leave them for 30000kms.

Hope this helps.

Grippy...

Just jap have them in stock. Use genuine only. I think the above price is about right.

Check to make sure they sell you the right one, some are a straight filter (no bends) and the other has a 90deg bend off the top of the filter. Check your current one.!!

They sell the wrong parts all the time.

Grippy.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
Just serviced my R32 GTS-t gearbox and diff.

I used Redline shockproof gear oil, expensive but the best. Can't remember the weight, I think 40w.

On the R32 I needed 2 liters for the gearbox and 2.5 liters for the diff. This sucks as they sell the redline in 4 liter bottle. I topped up .5 ltr with motul gear oil from 1 ltr bottle.

Unless you have a hoist it is a bitch of a job!!

I took mine to a mech friend and they did both gearbox and diff for $35 as I supplied oil.

My diff was super noisy and is on the way out but much better now with new oil.

It's not worth the drama of lying on the floor with gear oil in your face for $40.

Fuel filter is a throw away item. I replace mine every 10000kms. No inspection or cleaning possible as sealed unit. I think you can leave them for 30000kms.

Hope this helps.

Grippy...

I would avoid using a redline gear oil in the GB. I know many people here do but I would recommend the MT90 (75W90) over shockproof. Shockproof is a 75W140 and has more friction modifers for LSDs as its a gear oil and from my experience MT90 shifts better. However I know many ppl here have used it and I would rather have it than mnay otehr oills on the market.

If in doubt use Motul 300 gear, top stuff also.

THe GB takes about 4lts when u refill, the diff takes 1.2 ltres. I did both today as it happens. Both require a 1/2" drive wrench to get out the plugs...easy if u have a pit like me.

Engine: Castrol Edge 10/60

Front diff: Castrol SAF-XA 75/140

Rear diff: Castrol SAF-XA 75/140

Transfer case: Castrol Transmax Z ATF

Gearbox: Castrol Syntrax 75/90

Brakes: Castrol SRF

Clutch: Castrol SRF

Power steer (HICAS): Dexron III (generic) ATF

Attessa: Dexron III (generic) ATF

2.5 litres for the diff???????? damn. is it the truck version lol. should be 1.4 litres. and 2.4 in the gearbox.

saf-xa is a very good oil for diffs.

motul gear 300 is ok. i use redline heavy in my gearbox.

penrite syn atf in the atessa and power steer. (it dont boil)

penrite syn diff oil. sae140 gl6 awsome diff oil. does not break down like the synthetics do in a hypoid.

and penrite syn15-40 engine oil. again very good stuff.

and penrite syn brake fluid. dont boil either and isnt $100/litre

thankyou v8 brute ute sponsership account :nyaanyaa:

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
×
×
  • Create New...