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32 Or 33


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the endless debate

R32 looks better, lighter, handles like a go kart, looks better kitted, not as many around, nicer interior IMO....

driven both and much prefer the R32,

take them for a drive and buy what you like the best, i did this when i was tossing up between 180vs r32

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i went the r33 for a few reasons.

1. they are a quicker car. sure they weigh a bit more, but they have more power, and a better power/weight ratio. a r32 with 2 people in it weighs about the same as a r33 with 1 person.

2. nicer interior. the are a more modern looking interior with a nicer looking dash.

3. price. its easier to find a cheap clean 33 than it is 32. a clean 32 will often cost more than a clean 33.

4. did i mention that they are quicker?

i was tossing up between a 33 and a 180sx. i had quickly ruled out r32 (unless it had a rb25 in it). i couldn't see the point of the r32. they have about the same power (7kw more power, but less torque) than a sr20 powered silvia/180sx, but weigh about 100kg more so i ruled them out.

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get a 32gtr then, hehe.....

but seriosuly....mado82 made a particular good point :

"3. price. its easier to find a cheap clean 33 than it is 32. a clean 32 will often cost more than a clean 33"

psersonally i think it comes down to visual prefrence...the 32 is still a quik car and can be made quiker very easily.

if u think the 33 is a great lookin car then why wouldnt u get a 33???

i got a 32 cause i think they have more presence and cause i love the history on the 32gtr...

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33 :P

- Newer

- Better gearbox

- Better motor

A set of coilovers & sway bar and it handles brilliantly

Exhaust, FMIC and a touch more boost and its an awesome daily driver that you can drive to and from the track with no probs at all

Then if u decide you want to go crazy, throw a rb26 in it hehe :)

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i went the r33 for a few reasons.

1. they are a quicker car. sure they weigh a bit more, but they have more power, and a better power/weight ratio. a r32 with 2 people in it weighs about the same as a r33 with 1 person.

Ahh, the shallow mind of a gtst owner

GTR32 > S2 GTST33 > shit on a stick > GTST32

:(

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people have been saying that the S2 interior is better than S1..

Funny thing is, Mine is a S1 Type M and the interior is much nicr than 2 of my mates S2's. Theres is Sort of like Canvas. and Mine is like Velvet furr. Could be a Type M thing not too sure on that.

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Im thinking of buying a R32gtr with a R33 GTR engine with massive mods in it.

Would this be a good way to go? Should i get a mechanics report and a compression test?

Mods below: (sorry i wasnt sure how to link it to the mods and i apologise if it seems like i am stealing this thread. Just advice is needed.)

Dynoed at 20psi 360rwkw, 300rwkw at 1 bar tuned by JEM, these are safe tunes as its used as a daily driver.

96,000K on clock

2.6 litre twin turbo coupe with an

R33 GTR engine and Trust 618z turbos

ENGINE AND ELECTRONICS

APEXi Power FC and FC Commander unit

HKS EBC

Forged Pistons

TOMEI 260 degree cams

TRUST adjustable cam gears

HKS 1.2mm head gasket

HKS metal gaskets for plenum and exhaust manifolds

Sard 680cc injectors

SARD fuel regulator

N1 water pump

HKS delivery pipe

Bosch intank 044 pump

Polished Plenum

Oil catch like the powerplay ones + oil Air separator

Cusco Intercooler Intake pipes with Custom Turbo Intake Pipes (aluminuim)

Custom Carbon Fibre Air Box with CAI

Cusco master cylinder brake stopper

Z32 airflow meters, new apexi pod filters

Dual core radiator with cusco air panel diverter

TRUST dual core Intercooler 75mm

TRUST oil cooler and oil filter relocator Power Enterprise magnetic oil filter used

OS Giken twin plate clutch with lighten flywheel

R33 Brembo brakes front/rear with Earls braided brake lines F/R

NISMO circuit link suspension parts

AS - front pillar brace bar, for more rigid chasis

Chasis has been Pop Riverted for extra rigidity from engine bay to front cabin

Adjustable Front Upper Arms (camber)

G4 - Height and dampner adjustable suspension

ARC adjustable castor rods

Rear HICAS cancellation bar

ARC front and rear strut tower braces

ARC front and rear sway bars

NO ABS

TRUST dump/front pipes

3n1/4 inch Kakimoto stainless steel exhaust

Hi flowed Catco cat converter

Push Start Button with kill switch

Battery relocated to the boot

RWD toggle switch made by Dirt Garage

GReddy Electronic Boost gauge and HKS oil temp gauge

4WD controller by Raceworx installed (Duncan)

Turbo timer

Trust Gear Knob

3point immoboliser with auto window lifter, works with turbo timer

Rays Engineering 17x10inch rims, chrome outter and gold innner 2 piece rims 255x40

N1 front bar with front lip on bonnet (carbon fibre)

N1 head lights

N1 lip on the boot

N1 style side skirts

Kenwood MP3 player with Clarion 6inch splits, Clarion 6inch rear speakers

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...sg&id=86332

Edited by jakegts
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    • There are a few variables here, some are relevant but not critical (IMHO) to help answer your question. The two major things: 1) Ignoring anything to do with forced induction - all engines have their own natural torque curve, and it will ALWAYS roll over higher in the rpm.  There is a fixed relationship between power and torque.  When dealing with kw and nm, the relationship between them is roughly: kw = (rpm * nm) / 9549 nm = (kw / rpm) * 9549 The peak torque of an engine (without boost) will typically climb until somewhere nearish the middle of it's operating rev range, give or take a bit - then start dropping again.   The nearer the minimum and maximum rpm of the engine the steeper that drop off tends to be. 2) Boost simply increases the density of the air going into the engine, which inflates the torque at that point.  The ramp up in the torque curve you see on a turbo engine is due to the boost rising, but it's essentially just multiplying the torque you'd see if it was naturally aspirated.  The roll over you see at the end will typically be what would have always happened with the engine, whether it was naturally aspirated or turbocharged.   If the torque never started dropping then power would climb infinitely. The cool thing about this is you absolutely can tune the power delivery to suit the needs of the owner and/or the limitations of the car, and I regularly do this.    With modern turbos we've got to the point where a setup that someone may run well over 20psi of boost with could actually reach target boost well under 4000rpm if the tuner/owner WANTED to - and a lot of people seem to do this when there is actually no realistic benefit, generally it just adds a massive amount of strain to the engine and drivetrain and often actually makes the car harder to drive. As a general rule I tend to tune the boost curves for cars I tune to reach a "useful" torque level through the rev range and will often end up with a curve that ramps hard to a point, then creeps for the rest of the rev range - not to make the boost curve "soft" as such, but more to make sure its neither laggy nor pointlessly violent in it's delivery.   There have been cars I've tuned to be almost like a centrifugal supercharger (or naturally-aspirated-ish) where they actually only hit like 8psi of boost before opening the gate, then ramp up the next 10psi over the rev range... if the car is "loose enough" to drive. On the flip side I've tuned a car that had stock cams and the engine's natural torque curve fell over HARD in the higher rpm and resulted in a slightly awkward power curve to work with, in that case I actually started ramping up boost to boost torque in a way to offset the engines "NA" torque drop off... at peak rpm actually running a good 5psi+ more boost that what the "flat curve" would have defined.  This gave the owner an extra 500rpm or so of useable rev range, and had a fairly solid impact on times he was running at motorsport events due to being able to hold gears a bit longer and also falling into a more useful part of the rev range in the following gears. Here's an example of an RB in a GTSt I've done the "softened" boost curve to not pointlessly ramp straight to the max boost target early in the rpm, but still made sure it builds useful boost.  If you went in the car you'd not guess at all that the boost curve was doing anything "weird", it feels like it spools immediately and accelerates relentlessly (traction dependent) and holds to max rpm.   I don't know if you'd guess what the boost curve was doing by driving the car, or even looking at the dyno plot... but imho it suits the combination.  
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