Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I recently purchased my first gtr (very very very happy) on the dash the "HICAS" light is illuminated when driving, i received no manual with my car. does this mean that the four wheel steer fluid needs toping up or ???? if so where would i purchase such fluid etc ??? please help cheers guys look forward to meeting some of you guys.

josh

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159377-hicas-light-glowing-on-dash/
Share on other sites

I recently purchased my first gtr (very very very happy) on the dash the "HICAS" light is illuminated when driving, i received no manual with my car. does this mean that the four wheel steer fluid needs toping up or ???? if so where would i purchase such fluid etc ??? please help cheers guys look forward to meeting some of you guys.

josh

so your saying that the HICAS sign is constantly glowing?? fluid can be purchased at super cheap auto or repco or any other car shop like that..

  • 3 weeks later...
I recently purchased my first gtr (very very very happy) on the dash the "HICAS" light is illuminated when driving, i received no manual with my car. does this mean that the four wheel steer fluid needs toping up or ???? if so where would i purchase such fluid etc ??? please help cheers guys look forward to meeting some of you guys.

josh

Hey GTRIIN,

OK - I'll post a serious answer for you - I hope

The HICAS is the four wheel steer - and as far as I know - if the light is on, your 4WS will be off line.

If you have a non-std steering wheel, without a proper 4WS boss kit (which has a 4WS sensor in it apparently) - that will cause this problem. I thought this only happened after exceeding 80klms / hr (which is when the HICAS actually starts to work). So if it's on ALL THE TIME - this may not be your problem.

If you are low on steering fluids - this will cause the HICAS light to come on. If your light is on all the time - this seems like a good place to start.

Lastly, this seems to be a common problem with the older GTRs (I have an '89 R32 GTR BTW). HICAS seems to be more trouble than it's worth. Long term you may want to look at a getting a HICAS locking kit installed, and then just pull the HICAS bulb from behind the dash.

my 2c worth :(

Edited by itbmils
Hey GTRIIN,

OK - I'll post a serious answer for you - I hope

The HICAS is the four wheel steer - and as far as I know - if the light is on, your 4WS will be off line.

If you have a non-std steering wheel, without a proper 4WS boss kit (which has a 4WS sensor in it apparently) - that will cause this problem. I thought this only happened after exceeding 80klms / hr (which is when the HICAS actually starts to work). So if it's on ALL THE TIME - this may not be your problem.

If you are low on steering fluids - this will cause the HICAS light to come on. If your light is on all the time - this seems like a good place to start.

Lastly, this seems to be a common problem with the older GTRs (I have an '89 R32 GTR BTW). HICAS seems to be more trouble than it's worth. Long term you may want to look at a getting a HICAS locking kit installed, and then just pull the HICAS bulb from behind the dash.

my 2c worth :D

my 89 gtr drives fine for a couple mins, then the steering goes heavy, then the hicas light comes on further down the road, i had a feeling this is too do with the ecu so im borrowing the ecu from a GTSt today to see if it remedies the problem, if it does i will try write up a 'how to stop a damaged ecu guide' as the ecu physically looks fine inside, other than that i may have to remove the hicas, something i dont really want too do

woot woot!

sucsess.

Vehicle: R32 GTR

Problem: After a minute or two the steering becomes heavy, soon followed by the HICAS light illuminating on the dash cluster.

My Solution: HICAS ECU is kaput! This can be located in the boot on the drivers side under the parcel shelf.

How to test yours: Under the parcel shelf three 10mm head bolts hold in the ECU, undo these then unclip the ECU, replace with one from a car with working HICAS. For my test I used the HICAS ECU from a R32 GTSt, worked excellently, only took 5 mins to d the swap and back, and probably about 10 minutes driving it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I might have to shoot them an email. Pity the exchange rate is so bad at the moment. BTW, thanks for posting that table makes interesting reading. 
    • Add these Sensors -Wideband, Oil Pressure, Fuel pressure, Intake air temp Good inspection of ignition system of coils, plugs and loom (12v feed and good ground)- a r35 kit is best bang for buck upgrade. A decent tuner should be able to see any issues with the trigger system- a link has good filtering but a good simple upgrade is the nz wiring bolt in kit. Check and replace all the fuel filters- you would be surprised at intank filter after a few years. Also good to check for any leaks on vac hoses and pipe work as has been said. No need to go overboard and spend big $$$ to enjoy the car. A quality tuner is getting harder to find as anyone with a laptop thinks they are a tuner. A link has great features to check sensor voltages and frequency inputs and easy to see live by pressing f12. The link can do a TPS & RPM fuel/ignition mapping on ITB cars then add a 4D table with MAP and ability to add a 5D to it (can help with economy at cruise with wheel speed vs TPS) Where are you located as that will help narrow down a good tuner ?
    • Reviving an old thread, I reckon my stagea is starting to slip. Car usually gets parked on a hill, narrow driveway so cant go up the driveway smoothly, anyhows, lately first gear feels "sluggish"? Not responsive. Feels like I gotta run the engine more than usual to get off the line...  Any recommendations for transmission servicing in Sydney? Or possibly just an excuse to go manual ?
    • Well, moulded carpets should fit well if the buck they use is the right shape. The finish is then just a case of stiching the trim around the edges. Shuoldn't be too hard to get it right. Back in the day, replacement carpets were all "fitted", in that they were stitched together, with cuts and slices taken out to make them form the shapes. Many more opportunities to get it wrong, hence all the concern over good vendors and bad vendors.
    • A timely blog via AASA (keeping in mind they sell brake fluid of course...) https://www.msbgarage.com/blog/news-and-blogs/brake-fluid-what-should-i-use/
×
×
  • Create New...