Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 93
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

89 model... will hold out til i find one with some decent suspension on it already. unless something comes up that i just cant pass up on.

will budget for about 20k landed, registered and on the rd.

the rest will go on insurance

Originally posted by skyline33

yeah i remember seeing one with 2000kms, its not a mistake three zeros but it was very expensive this car was brand new

Yep 3.8 mil yen will buy it . That's only about $50K in Japan.

And people still believe that the * only 40K on the clock * cars they get for $15K are genuine.

Cheers

Ken

um... as i understand it Raza, you import a car that is over 15 years old, and you don't have to get it complianced with the usual rules that apply to newer cars.. however you do have to get it an engineers certificate (which is generally cheaper and easier to obtain). I think the import duty and GST is cheaper on these cars too??

With the new SEVS law that mean any import at the moment has to be returned to bone stock (apparently), the 15 year old rule is attractive as you can get all those hypo cars with big turbos, kits, etc.

Wish the government had a proper link on the internet for information on the all teh current import laws?

hey nark..Engrish at its best.. hehe...

Comment :  

Engine 2. The 7l and the turbine GT2530, the computer - the Kin professional, the titanium muffler and approximately the foot the height pitch GT damper et cetera you fumble rather, but it is the car which is easy to ride. The engine Á _ - it is within 2000 kilometer after the ƒjƒ“ƒO.  

Renewal being completed: May 11th 0 o'clock 16 amount  

There was an accident calendar and with it purchased by the fact that you say, but inconvenience is troubled being there is no point which you do not understand well in travelling. Kilometer of 250 or more it has put out with the meter reading, but altogether problem it was not.

lol narkeh... i so can't get over the fact that you din bother checkin out yahoo auctions thru a translator all this time... omg...

check out the parts section, betcha you'll go broke b4 u even buy the car... lol i'm already bidding on r34 GTR 18" rims.. mmm best rims for 1.5k u can get...

Originally posted by funkymonkey

lol narkeh... i so can't get over the fact that you din bother checkin out yahoo auctions thru a translator all this time... omg...

check out the parts section, betcha you'll go broke b4 u even buy the car... lol i'm already bidding on r34 GTR 18" rims.. mmm best rims for 1.5k u can get...

dream on.

If they go for 1.5K it mean they are scratched to shit or something wrong with them.

Most of em go for 2K plus and then there is the shipping , import duty , buyers fee in Japan etc etc.

Cheers

Ken

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Interesting.  Great info. thank you.  Give a few days to get that name plate.  I have a busy life most weeks.  I will be in touch.
    • Strange your posting about this being an issue. Move the harness or change your wheels or run more camber etc. Have the thing not touch the thing so it doesn't destroy the thing.  Short answer, no. Slightly longer answer, the factory fuel gauge is measuring resistance. You need to wire in the FPG fuel level sender into the original factory fuel level sender wiring.  I drew you a picture to explain this one The factory strainer is quite long, reaching down into the bottom of the tank. Safe bet your aftermarket fuel pump has a little baby sized strainer that probably doesn't even point down towards the bottom of the thank.  Solution, move the pump lower down in the tank, or fit a longer strainer, or do both. I did both, I've run my tank down to 5L remaining and the car still drove fine.   
    • S2/3 GT-R is the same as S2 GTS-t The SRS airbags module in under the centre console. The S1/S1.5 GTS-t and S1 GT-R had the module built into the steering wheel. FWIW, I have a S3 GT-R wheel in my S2 GTS-t shit box. Same airbag plug, airbag light goes on then off, meaning all systems are go. S3 GT-R has red stitching, that's about it.
    • Dumb question, but why would it matter if the wheel came off a car with hicas or not?
    • Hey to anyone that reads this, long time lurker first time posting, sorry if it’s been answered before but I’ve been looking for nearly a year now for answers. ive got a 25det neo in an r32 that works awesome when it works (made 500whp on 21psi) but works 45% of the time, 1st issue there’s a harness that runs under the passengers side front fender that my tire keeps rubbing through and one wire seems to power the fuel pump even though I’ve done the relay “mod” some people like to call it, and when it does rub through it kills the car, yes next time I’m with the car I want to take the fender off and try tuck the harness well out of the way but I’d also like to try and by pass this mysterious wire as well lol, also wouldn’t mind getting power from the alternator as I’ve read it supplies the pump with 13v ? But no idea where to run the power wire too. 2nd issue, when replacing my fuel pump and fuel hanger I managed to break the factory fuel level sender leaving me with no fuel gauge, I’d like to buy the fpg fuel level sender for r32/s13 but the plug it comes with confuses me, I’ve got a detschwerks x1 fuel hanger which has light + pump - level + pump + and a ground, I’m no auto sparky but I’m wondering if I can cut the plug off the fuel level sender and wire the negative to the pump negative and wire the positive to the level positive to get a fuel gauge back ?🥴 3rd and final issue, the reason I want a fuel gauge is because whenever it’s below half a tank, it fuel starves like crazy and runs like a bag of shit even without doing a pull or sloshing the fuel round in the tank, I’d also like to fix this but have no idea what’s causing it, I’ve got a dw420 and a dead head fuel setup meaning the fuel is regulated before it gets to the engine, my only theory is that the return line is to close to the pickup on the pump and when it’s at half a tank the return line is causing the pump to cavitate enough to cause fuel pressure issues, that or the pump isn’t low enough in the tank which I would find strange considering I can’t find a single thing online about it, also if ya wondering how I figured out it happens at half a tank without a fuel gauge, I waited until it started happening and went and filled up and the car took exactly 30 litres every time I tested it, if ya managed to read through this mess I appreciate that and any recommendations , cheers
×
×
  • Create New...