Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a manual 93 gts25t and so far ive done the basic stuff like good exhaust, air filter, EBC high boost set to .8bar, BOV (yes i noticed a difference boost kicks in faster on gearchanges) Good tein adjustable suspension. It has 17" 255's all round. If i go too hard on it and get wheelspin its just too much for the clutch and it slips and i get that burning clutch smell heh. So, i need a better clutch, keeping in mind that i wont be going for bigger turbo and all that stuff, i'll just be doing a few more minor mods so i wont be expecting any more than about 200rwkw by the time i'm finished.

Firstly what type of clutch would you guys recommend as something that can handle lotsa abuse with around that power output. If you could include rough prices or links that would be really helpful.

And while i'm at it i might as well put in a light flywheel so any prices etc on that would be great too.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15954-r33-clutch-and-flywheel-upgrade/
Share on other sites

warrior_350,

I would go for something like a replacement full face (steel backed) organic heavy duty clutch (with increased clamping rate)

Both Unique Auto Sports and Just Jap sell them for around $550 I think..

This is what I will be looking at getting soon and I have the same requirements as you...

I know your in QLD but have a look (on their web sites) and order it through the site (and have your local mech. install it etc..)

Regards

Yeap! I'd go a good quailty full face clutch with a good lightened flywheel.

If you car is going to be a daily driver, then you'll wear a button clutch quickly and it will also piss you off very very quickly.

Guest INASNT
Originally posted by GTS-t VSPEC

I have a twin-plate OS Giken, and while it may be overkill for what you need, they are nice to drive and come with a lightened flywheel. See if there are any 2nd hand ones going:D

isent that an on/off clutch and a bitch to drive in traffic?

Extreme single plate ceramic button clutch with sprung centre and heavier pres plate, cost me $880 fitted. Sprung centre so wont piss you off, easy to drive for a performance clutch. Very good feel and take up, i have 200rwkw and its fine, whatsisname has the same clutch handling over 250rwkw. recommended.

isent that an on/off clutch and a bitch to drive in traffic?

Nah dude... i have one with the solid center. I think the ones with the smaller pucks are harder to drive as there is more pressure on a smaller surface area. The OS Giken plates have 4 large pucks, and i find it quite easy to drive. Peak Hour is a pain... but isn't it always?

i have a hks twin in my car. grips like mad, no play at all. moving off on a hill is a pain.

from what i've heard, nismo, os giken and ats make clutches for road use. the one i have in mine is a race clutch. i was told this after i put it in...could have gotten either one of those other 3 for the same price...

Originally posted by SLY33

Extreme single plate ceramic button clutch with sprung centre and heavier pres plate, cost me $880 fitted.  Sprung centre so wont piss you off, easy to drive for a performance clutch. Very good feel and take up, i have 200rwkw and its fine, whatsisname has the same clutch handling over 250rwkw.  recommended.

Where you can get them? thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is an absolute lottery. They can and have died at stock boost with low usage at all. The turbos are now anywhere up to 36 years old!
    • Huh, wonder why it blew then. I never really beat on the car THAT hard lol I dailyed it and the turbo blew after 6 months
    • That's odd, it works fine here. Try loading it on a different device or browser? It's Jack Phillips JDM, a Skyline wrecker in Victoria. Not the cheapest, but I have found them helpful to find obscure parts in AU. https://jpjdm.com/shop/index.php
    • Yeah. I second all of the above. The only way to see that sort of voltage is if something is generating it as a side effect of being f**ked up. The other thing you could do would be to put a load onto that 30V terminal, something like a brakelamp globe. See if it pulls the voltage away comepletely or if some or all of it stays there while loaded. Will give you something of an idea about how much danger it could cause.
    • I would say, you've got one hell of an underlying issue there. You're saying, coils were fully unplugged, and the fuse to that circuit was unplugged, and you measured 30v? Either something is giving you some WILD EMI, and that's an induced voltage, OR something is managing to backfeed, AND that something has problems. It could be something like the ECU if it takes power from there, and also gets power from another source IF there's an internal issue in the ECU. The way to check would be pull that fuse, unplug the coils, and then probe the ECU pins. However it could be something else doing it. Additionally, if it is something wired in, and that something is pulsing, IE a PWM circuit and it's an inductive load and doesnt have proper flyback protection, that would also do it. A possibility would be if you have something like a PWM fuel pump, it might be giving flyback voltages (dangerous to stuff!). I'd put the circuit back into its "broken" state, confirm the weird voltage is back, and then one by one unplug devices until that voltage disappears. That's a quick way to find an associated device. Otherwise I'd need to look at the wiring diagrams, and then understand any electrical mods done.   But you really should not be seeing the above issue, and really, it's indicating something is failing, and possibly why the fuse blew to begin with.
×
×
  • Create New...